1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

clutch problem

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Old May 12, 2003 | 02:35 AM
  #1  
xlversatilelx's Avatar
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From: cerritos ca
clutch problem

i dont know whats wrong lately when i start my car when i press my clutch it is soft as **** and the gears wont go in and ****. but then the starts to get harder after a while and i am able to put it in gear. what is the problem here?? i dont get it, it did this when i first got the car, then it stoped now it came back ?? what could be the problem?? thanks
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Old May 12, 2003 | 07:10 AM
  #2  
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From: Tenn.
may be a vacuum leak, also , have you changed the fluid , only holds a few ounces,, are you loosing any fluid? ,someone else will jump in with another possibility,,,,good luck,,,,
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Old May 12, 2003 | 08:20 AM
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From: Socal
vaccum leak? there is no vacuum. much more of hydraulics. check for leaks in the clutch slave and master (check this inside the car). If ok, any noise coming out of the car? noise that goes away when you step on the clutch? btw, how many miles do you have on it?
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Old May 12, 2003 | 08:41 AM
  #4  
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From: Raleigh,MS
bleed The lines
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Old May 12, 2003 | 01:12 PM
  #5  
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From: cerritos ca
only 46k miles on it, i think that little for a 81, but the fluid seems to be full any other ideas?? thanks though imma try bleeding it
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Old May 12, 2003 | 01:50 PM
  #6  
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From: Ottawa, Canada
You still may have a problem with fluids, even at 46k. Defects can happen. Further more, a 20 year old car with no mileage may still have some wear.
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Old May 12, 2003 | 01:58 PM
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From: Ottawa, Soviet Canuckistan
Here's a helpful set of steps to getting your clutch to work better:

1. Change the fluid
2. Bleed the system
3. If you still have the problem, replace the master and slave clutch cyls. One of them is going bad, and when one goes the other is close, if not already gone. They're a little over a hundred dollars for the both of them and easy bolt-out, bolt-in replacement.

The reason it is soft at the beginning and harder later is because there is air *somewhere* in the system or the fluid is bad. When that's happening, you just have to pump the pedal a bit before you take off or when you're sitting at a stop light, this builds pressure.

The air could be in there from just a long period of time, or fluid could be leaking out of the master or slave cyls, causing the problem. Until the money, you should be alright just bleeding often. The system is a relatively simple one with only 4 parts. Pedal, Master Clutch Cyl, (line), slave clutch cyl.

Hope it helps
Jon

Oh, and buy a Heynes manual, it's the best 20$ you'll ever spend.
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Old May 12, 2003 | 03:57 PM
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From: Raleigh,MS
BTW victoria british has rebuild kit for the slave and master cylinders for alot less than new ones, they are easy rebuilds too.

But from the sounds of it you need to bleed it, replaceing the fluid wouldnt hurt either (had the same thing happen 2 days ago)
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Old May 12, 2003 | 04:08 PM
  #9  
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From: Chatham, Ontario, Canada
Rebuild for the master and slave cylinders are not too reilable, because they fail faster after the rebuild. It is usually money ahead in the long run to just replace the two cylinders, then to keep rebuilding them again and again
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Old May 12, 2003 | 04:26 PM
  #10  
wwilliam54's Avatar
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From: Raleigh,MS
Originally posted by anthrax
Rebuild for the master and slave cylinders are not too reilable, because they fail faster after the rebuild. It is usually money ahead in the long run to just replace the two cylinders, then to keep rebuilding them again and again

with the relatively low amount of miles, the pistons and cylinders shouldnt be worn much at all, it the cylinders are bad it will be from the o-ring aroud the piston dry rotting, in this case a rebuild should be good.

But you are right usually people rebuild cylinders that have much, much more miles, and then they arent so reliable
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