Who's done it? What does it exactly do? What is it for?

I've noticed that these acuators don't open till your like full throttle but dosent really open much at high rpm. just pulled the cable under the hood. couldnt really tell the rpms. but anyways. what do it actually whats happening when these actuators are opening and closing? the ports right? oh and i have the RB presilencer on. will removing the actuators mean i dont need to connect that little pipe that connected to the cat when it was there? what about the air pump? should i remove it? I have the block of plate. Is is bad for the engine to have all those parts off??? Will it cool properly???? HELP ! ! !! any advice or suggestions.

 

well, the 5th and 6th ports will not open untill very high rpms unless your engine is under load. Reving it in neutral will not get the results you need.

The acutataors should be opening somewhere around ~3800 RPM.

Also, if you have a full RB exhaust, it should have come with a blockoff plate for the ACV. So you can remove the ACV, and therefore the airpump can be removed as well.

A word of caution on removing the airpump though, be sure to get a double sleeve alternator pully to prevent the water pump from slipping at high rpm. One belt alone will not cut it.

Removing the actutators is a common mod, know as wiring the ports open. Doing this mod where your 5th and 6 ports work properly is a bad idea. You'll be able to see you low end (or lack of) fly straight out the window. SO dont remove the acutators.

To test if they are working properly, simpily remove them, but do not open the ports. You power should go downhill after 5000 (not sure on the exact RPM) pretty fast. If the car runs like normal theres a pretty good chance the acutators are not opening. If they are not opening, instead of just wiring the ports open, I would look for exactly why they aer not opening. The sleeves, and the rods (especially the rods) can get grit and stiff in them and will eventually be stuck in one place. This was pretty common in alot of junkyard manifolds I looked at.

The other idea, assuming the rods and sleeves rotate, is to find another way of opening the ports. Some common ways are to use the air pump, or do a fully electric way. Do a seach on the forum, it should provide many testimonials and how to's on this especially in the second gen forum.

 

sounds good. they're actually working i sat the car in netural and pulled the cable and saw them both opening and closing. but what looked like moving slowly. removing the air pump, is that bad? will i still need to connect the pipe that connects to the RB presilencer???

 

that pipe comming from the RB presilencer is to provide the back pressure to open the 5th and 6th ports.

Again, you wont see the ports move much under neutral but they open ~3800 rpm when the engine is engine is under load.

Also the 5th and 6th ports do not fly open. They open gradually throughout the power band.

As long as you have the complete RB exhaust, it is safe to premove the airpump and acv. It will free up some horse power as well.

 

acv= air control valve? right. what does it look like again?

 

yeah its air control valve. Its bolted onto the lower intake manifold, facing the passenger side of the engine bay. It has one hose comming from the airpump, and another goes to a relief silencer. You can remove all that, just as long as you have a gasket and blockoff plate for the ACV.

 

i need a gasket...RB just gave me the block off plate. Where do i need the gasket for.

 

me too, me too

I'm planning on the racing beat exhaust system too, and I'm hoping to put the exhaust on at the same time of getting the motor rebuilt and ported

 

go to autozone and get that liquid gasket high heat stuff. that's what i used and it's holding very very well.

 

Any time two metal surfaces mate, they need a gasket to complete the seal.

You can get the gasket from mazdatrix.

 

yeah but where... the block of plate to the engine???

 

http://mazdatrix.com/e7.htm = page

(J) Air Control Plate (intake manifold 81-92 non turbo)

part

wheres the gasket???

 

Yes. You can get the gasket from the dealer also.

 

AVC picture and blockoff plate. There is no pre-made gasket. Make your own and/or use RVT, the blue stuff in a tube.

 

exactly what i needed.... thanks did you take those pics just now???


well if anything ill use the red stuff...and are you sure theres no gasket. ill call later adn check w/RB, mazadtrix.

are your actuators still on????

 

You also need shorter 10mm bolts for the plate or you ca use a bunch of washers.

I would leave the actuators on if I were you.

 

well I recieved acv gaskets with my engine gasket set, so they do exist. I'll go try to fin the exact link where that particular gasket can be purchased.

 

naw it came with the bolts for it already. thank you RB

the headers are now a beautiful blue,yellow, purple rainbow color....vrrrrrooommmm,vrrrrrrroooommmmm

 

ok, I'm beginning to think that mabey you dont need a gasket for this? I cant seem to find it anywhere.

But I would also try rotary engine shops, and dealers, as they will have it for sure or know where you can get one.

 

You do need a gasket for this. I just removed mine yesterday. You can get it at the dealer or Mazdatrix.

 

well yeah I have a gasket, but I also still have my ACV.

I'm wondering if you need it with it removed, if you did i'm sure they would have included a gasket.

 

I took those pictures a couple weeks ago. My SCV is obviously off and the blockoff plate in place. I used some universal cork gasket sold by the roll and cut my own with an exacto knife. I also used a little RTV.

My 5th & 6th port actuators are also off the car because the ports were stuck shut. Better stuck open then stuck shut, IMHO.
Aaron

 

thanks arron