Clutch M & S Cylinder Quick Q
#1
Full Member
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Clutch M & S Cylinder Quick Q
I've read about a thousand threads on the subject, and a friend and I changed my MC about a year ago but unfortunatly I was the clutch pusher so I could not see exactly what he was doing. My clutch went out yesterday and now I am ordering the MC SC and SS hose, so Im all set there. The question I have is, when removing the old hardware should I just bleed everything dry, to reduce a large mess of fluid? If yes, do I just bleed it like normal, w the tube&jar, without adding fluid the the MC reservoir?
I know, stupid question, better to find out BEFORE I make a huge mess,
Thanks
I know, stupid question, better to find out BEFORE I make a huge mess,
Thanks
#2
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To get a really good bleed, your going to want to fill the tanks up and then bleed em like that. Pump 3 times, hold down, then bleed. so on. Until there is a constant stream that flows out. DONT FORGET TO REFILL THE TANKS WHEN YOUR FINISHED.
#3
Old Fart Young at Heart
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If you are replacing the master, slave and hose, remove the entire unit as one piece, then you won't be spilling caustic brake fluid on the paint. Even if you aren't replacing the hose, this is still a good way to do it.
Bench bleed the master before you install it, and put it back together as a unit, then install on the car. Make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too far in the master during bleeding, you'll be fine. If you are doing it yourself, find a speed bleeder for the slave, per RX7Carls post the other day. It may even be archived by now.
Bench bleed the master before you install it, and put it back together as a unit, then install on the car. Make sure the fluid level doesn't drop too far in the master during bleeding, you'll be fine. If you are doing it yourself, find a speed bleeder for the slave, per RX7Carls post the other day. It may even be archived by now.
#4
Burning Oil-Grinding 3rd
to blead the MC and SC you have to do to things.
First. Open the bleader and press the peddle While down close the bleader. This will push fluid out throuht the hose.
Now press the peddle and then open the bleader, this will let the fluid and air in the SC to be pushed out.
First. Open the bleader and press the peddle While down close the bleader. This will push fluid out throuht the hose.
Now press the peddle and then open the bleader, this will let the fluid and air in the SC to be pushed out.
#7
Bench bleeding can make a mess when you re-install it. I do not see a need to bench bleed anyway.
Edit: Oh, did not read all of it - if you install it as a 3 pc. assembly then no mess.
Edit: Oh, did not read all of it - if you install it as a 3 pc. assembly then no mess.
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#9
Does the SS line replace just the original line, or the hard line as well? Who else sells them besides mazdatrix?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm
#10
Old Fart Young at Heart
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Originally Posted by alxpril
Does the SS line replace just the original line, or the hard line as well? Who else sells them besides mazdatrix?
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm
http://www.mazdatrix.com/f-hydral.htm
#11
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Originally Posted by Sabbath-7
Just ordered the MC & SC from nopi.com, great prices!
How much?
I got my Master Cyl, Clutch Master and Slave for $119ish. RockAuto.com
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