grantmac

So I need the complete FC wiring harness from both sides then? As you can tell I'm pretty brutal when it come to comprehending anything to do with wiring Hopefully this won't pose too much of a problem. I'm gonna try and get the swap started on the 18th of March and finished on Easter long weekend, all I need now is a fuel pump, some injection PSI rated fuel line and the motor!
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Well I am still tackling the wiring... I will have an actual harness within a week..!!!

grantmac

Got the motor, -SE pump is one the way! I also just found someone locally who is doing the same swap and he's gonna give me a hand with the wiring, looks like I'm in business.
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Ok folks, to those of you following this thread.. I almost have the wiring done.. I am going to clear up a few things.

1- that picture I posted of the FSM wiring is labeled from the side WHERE the wires come INTO the connector not out into the ECU.... Just figured that out... After I got that down the harness built itself...

2- Leave the CAS wiring intact if you are able to....

3- when cutting the harness leave at LEAST 4 inches to work with.

4- I made a Huge grounding harness and then pigtailed all my grounds together, and will hook it to several different points on the frame, ecu, motor, firewall ect.

I guess that is it for now.... I'll post pics of the completed harness some time in the next day or so.

woodonastick

iTrader: (1)

thats totally awwwsssooommmeeee. keep up the good work.

grantmac

I'm currently doing the driver's side harness and it's busting my nuts! When you posted the cut list, was that ALL the wiring I needed from the passenger side? Because it seems like I should have more, or are there other bits that don't plug into the ECU that I need to keep? Since I have no intention of ever having it emissions legal I also took the liberty of cutting the floor-tem sensor (1W) wire, the port air-solenoid (1S), the shift-light (1K) although that might be used later. Now it looks like I might also have to use the main relay and fuse box to get my power for my coils or can I use the power for the 1st gen coils? Also it seems that some of the passenger side harness for the FC mimics the FB drivers side harness (the main wires off the battery, the starter wiring, main-power to the fuse-box), which should I use?
Grant

grantmac

Bump! RRTEC, is your running yet?
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Whew. Ok here is what I did. I just used the fuse block out of the FC.. Just wired it up with that. I cut everything from the block I didn't need. I retained the stock wiring for the alt and fuel pump (used a gsl-se pump) I just bought the pump but haven't installed it yet so the starting ceremony wil happen next weekend!. Hopefully all will go well.

shadowlife25

good luck and keep posting man!

RotaryRevn

.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Update: Ok, It has been a few months since i have been posting. I have the interior put back together. I had a lot of issues with the install, I have had to pull the motor out 3 times due to fitment issues. BUT!!!! It is actually in and bolted up now. I need to wire Up a few more little bits and peices and it should run... I am going to work hard on it this weekend and post up some update pics. Once the motor is running I am going to tackle the suspension...

fishbulb95

^^ Great to hear

grantmac

I finally got mine to start last weekend running Megasquirt. Judging from how it ran I have a lot of tuning to do, but at least it's tunable. I hope your luck is better then mine RRTEC.
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Well There have been a lot of questions about the swap recently, so I thought I would resurect this old thread... Lots of good info...

John64

Well, do tell!

gerbraldy

Would a GSL-SE engine crossmember bolt-up to an 85 gsl body?

z-beater

^^^Why would you want to do that?

sjd

Since my other thread was pretty much universally ingnored. I have not found the answers to these questions.

I'm going to use the racing beat mount and GSL-SE front cover, Instead of using a GSL-SE pan, can I use a competition oil pan instead?
What about a windage tray?
On my car there is a fuel line from the tank to the carb as well as a return line. I can use these with the new fuel system or are they undersized?
I assume it's best to use the stock 2nd gen oil cooler? Should I just mount it up front below the rad?
What rad should I use? I don't think the 2nd gen rad will fit so I'm leaning towards the stock 1st gen rad or maybe a competition aluminum rad if the budget allows but I don't want it to be overkill.
Can I run the stock fan? What about running an e-fan?

z-beater

Can't answer all your questions but I can probably help you out a little. Other will have to chime in on what I have missed.

Fuel system. I think that it really depends how much power you are wanting to put down. What are you plans mods...is it just going to be a stock engine? If you go larger turbo etc. You will also want to upgrade your fuel injectors so you engine won't pop...

Personally I am us the stock gsl-se oil cooler. It should be sufficient for my needs. The gsl-se oil cooler is the same as the 2nd gen so you should be ok. Yes I would mount it under the rad. If you can get the whole combo from an se you do not have to worry about having to mount it...might save a little time and headache.

For rad a refreshed gsl-se rad should work. If you are going to go aluminum I reccoment koyo. They are around 350 and offer quality/perfomance and price all in one package. There are quite a few people putting out some pretty extreme numbers with no problems on the se rad.

Z

Kingbob

On my turbo engine for sure (didn't check with the N/A one) All of my grounds to the ECU where grounded through the harness on the engine. I didn't need to cut those lines and reground them like I did with my S4 n/a swap.

A baffled tank is a MUST (repeat 3x) the car with the N/A is nearly undrivable with a 1/4 tank. And just annoying at 1/2 tank.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Wow, I ended up pulling the motor out, and I sold the chassis... A stupid tranny mount was all I was missing.... Oh well the motor has a new home in my Vert.. Shame, that would have been a sweet car. Oh well I am working a deal on a Tender Blue 1895 so maybe......

clean85owner

Doesn't the -SE front cover run a different motor mounts than the 12As? Thus forcing you to modify the 12A crossmember to accept the -SE front cover?

I swore I knew all of this information a year ago.....

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

It can go either way, I modified a 12a bracket to line the engine up.. the front cover makes no difference, it's the larger size of the motor that throws it all off.. so you modify the bracket like in the picture on page 1.