rwatson5651

iTrader: (5)

Great thread!!!!!!!!!

djmtsu

iTrader: (3)

I'll let you know tonight what I can get a pump for. I can beat that price.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Thanks D.J. That would be a huge help...

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Here is the waterpump I refinished..

Some other tips I have come up with on swapping motors..

The cheapest way to do this conversion is to have a 2nd gen COMPLETE car to play with (if you are going to retain the EFI). It has yeilded almost all the parts needed to finish the project. They can be purchased fairly inexpensivley with a good running motor if tehy have been wrecked or rusted out.

Lay out a plan before starting.

Read a MINIMUM of 3-4 HOURS worth of swap material via the search function a week to eliminate the confusion that will most likely insue.

Write down your plan at least 4 times the week before starting the project. And make a list of parts you need and store them safely when you buy them.

Try to do the swap in an short period of time, like 2 weekends....... If you don't it could stretch out over several months..lol..

All I can say is learn from other peoples mistakes and learn from their sucesses.

Whizbang

good thing i have two parts cars!!!

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Update: I just realized that the Flywheel on the "new" motor is different then the one on my other two 13b's..... After further inspection.......IT's A LIGHTWEIGHT FLYWHEEL! YEEHAW!

Hyper4mance2k

iTrader: (40)

mwatson184

lucky man

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I just put a deposit down on a set of LE wheels, they really don't pertain to the 13B swap but they are a part of the total project! So now I have rims to put my 14" race rubber on.

Alak

iTrader: (9)

I've just completed an 87' 13B Swap into my 1980 if anyone has any questions. Its Carb'd. EFI was giving me troubles so I switched to the 'easy way out'. Runs awesome.


Just some Input, the 12A Tranny has troubles handling power output over 150HP. Or at least thats what EVERYONE has told me. Im around the 200HP mark and I'll post if I start to notice things. I've only put maybe 20kms onto this car since the swap.

purple82

After 5000 miles on a 12a transmission that already had 185k miles on it, I'm not having any problems. Maybe if these engines had more torque the transmission would be in trouble, but NA, even with ~220 flywheel hp, there's no problem.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

I had an 83 with a monster streetport done by mazdatrix the motor dynoed at almost 200hp (with exhaust carb ect....) and the guy who owns it now is still going without problems on a 12A tranny with 232k on it...

Whizbang

for my swap i am going to use the 12a until it goes bam! then ill take the thing apart and see what the weak point was. maybe i could desgin a stronger part.

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Here is the link to the page that has been a big help so far in working out the wiring....

http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/faqdiagnosing.html

Rex4Life

All that info and more is in the FSM. If you don't know how to get it online go to www.iluvmyrx7.com

As far as the code checker is concerned, I ran my code checker wires to a new plug under the driver wheel area. Then built a 4 channel code checker: 2 channels blink out the ECU code, 1 channel indicates closed loop operation of the fuel/O2 sensor, and 1 channel is the shift lite from the ECU (since FBs don't have one).

Scott

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

Here is the link to the COMPLETE ecu Cut and paste I did... This should claritfy some issues.

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/documented-ecu-pinout-cut-list-13b-swap-394539/

grantmac

So if I read the cut and splice page correctly: All I have to do is modify the wiring going into the S4 ecu and it should be capable of controlling the engine? I would assume I will have to run some of the FC loom with things like injector wiring and some sensors correct?
Grant

P.S. Wasn't gonna do a swap but I found an S4 13B with less than 50,000 KM an ACT clutch and a lightweight flywheel for $600 Canadian so I figure I should go for it!

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

if you have a gsl-se to start with, it makes it a lot easier. you can use the se injection and ignition with the s4 intake and motor and you won't have to do any cutting up the loom.

the biggest power gain in the s4 over the se was the improved intake system, especially the dynamic chamber and TB.

check out the thread here for a bit about what you're going to have to do with the S4 engine for it to fit in the 1st gen. https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/s4-13b-into-gsl-se-project-reporting-long-lots-pics-395410/

grantmac

It's actually a GSL. I shouldn't have to change anything because I have swapped in an FC front subframe so all the FC mounts with align (or out comes the die-grinder). I'm really only worried about the lack of a baffled tank, fuel pump and wiring. I can handle physically fitting the engine in.
Grant

oldschool85

I have an 85 gs also. I've got a 13b 4 port carb that i want to throw in. I have to rebuild it first. What steps and parts are necessarry for the transplant.

cpt_gloval

iTrader: (1)

wow you put an FC subframe in? whyfor? suspension mods, or just for the sake of doing it the hard way? :p

grantmac

For the awesomeness of having a 2.5 turn lock-to-lock rack and pinion set-up!
Seriously, I knew as soon as I started AutoX that I'd never enjoy driving with the stock steering. Since I'm not really competitive and nobody locally is in it for anything but fun I decided to say screw the rules, moved up to some crazy MOD class and now here I am. I would have been in MOD class with an engine swap anyway so I don't mind.
The way I look at it I got the CP racing R&P and big brake kit all for the low price of $450CAD at the junkyard. Yes it was a lot of work, but most of the really hard work was fitting my stupid 12A back in
I've driven the new front end a few times and although there is still some excessive caster to resolve it feels awesome. There is absolutely no wander at speed. Instead of indirectly "guiding" the car through a corner you just sort of point it and it turns. There is a very little bit of initial turn-in understeer but it transitions to oversteer before the apex, as opposed to the stock set-up which seemed to push everywhere but on the way out of the turn. The steering effort is very slightly increased (Although keep in mind I'm using a PS rack with the lines looped and there is a lot of caster!), but I can still park it at low speeds easily; it just demands both hands like a sports car should. Anyway, if you search there is quite a bit of info posted my myself and Abeomid on this site about the swap.
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

The wiring on the passenger side was 100% retained. All the injection/sensors stays intact. I just pulle dthe wiring harness throught the dash and then re-plugged it up. The driver side I am retaining as much as is needed, I will be running twwo fuse blocks ect.....

grantmac

So I pull the passenger side wiring through the firewall towards the engine then? The drivers side will stay stock FB largely? What has anyone done with regards to the tank and pump? I'm thinking of just running a VW CIS pump, they put out crazy amounts of fuel.
Grant

RRTEC

iTrader: (13)

All of the the lights and stuff will be run from the stock FB wiring, all the CAS, teh Ignition, ect will be run off the FC drivers side harness and fuse block ect.

To answer your question "yes" I just pulled all the passenger side harness out throught hte firewall towards the engine and then unbolted all the sensors off teh FC's fenderwell and layed them on top of the block when I pulled it, I unhooked NOTHING on the passenger side to eliminate any confusion.

You can run a stock GSL-SE fuel pump, or go for an aftermarket inline....