DJAngelicon

Ok guys today I been having some weir problem. First of all I notice a weir noise coming out of a box on the left fender near the Brake Cylinder which is like a bronce or gold color. It say "Check-Relay" and it have two writes that connect on the bottom of it. Beside the weir noise which I found due to the fact that when ever I put my heater or press my breaks it makes my RPM Niddle Bounce up and down un-stable. So, any idea what is going on with this anyone?

I think is the Voltage Regulator that is called.

By the way if is the Voltage Regulator having problems, then what is the best voltage regulator.

Rx7carl

The VR on an 81 is internal to the alternator. Whats the voltage read with the car running, fan on, lights etc.

DJAngelicon

Not sure I don't have anything to read it and also don't know how to.

DJAngelicon

Ok is not the Voltage Regulator is some kind of Check Relay Box on the left side front panel inside the engine bay next to the Brake Booster. There is two cables attached to it from the harnes cable. I will post the picture soon.

DJAngelicon

Here is the first picture of what the Check Relay Looks like.


This is after opening it I notices the areas that where burn.


This is what the bottom looks like and where the hornes wires connect to.


Just another picture of what it looks like.

If anyone have any idea what is this Check Relay is for or do please let me know.

DJAngelicon

I guess no one knows.....

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

The check relay gets activated with the alt charging. It basically causes the warning lights to be on (engine not running) or off. It also connects to part of the choke system in the 12A cars. Just pick-up another used one to put on.

Rx7carl

Will it run ok without that relay hooked up? I forget what it goes to other then the choke. Im at work and have no manual here.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

I think it should run without connected. I would have to check the diagram to be sure. It shouldn't be no different than starting with the alt disconnected or having a broken alt belt.

DJAngelicon

Ok Thanks Kent, well I got a new one from a 83 Rx7 at the yunk yard. Doing the same thing and even looks worse. Besdise that I disconnected the wires from it and the only thing I get on is the exhaust heat light. Beside that everything else seem to work fine with out it on. So, what could be causing this thing to go wacko?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Maybe the alt is messed up or something in the wiring is shorting. I'll take a look at the wiring diagram and see if I can see what else may cause it. The only thing that may happen with it disconnected, is that I don't know if the alt still gets power to its regulator. The alt may not be charging with it unplugged. I'll take a look to see for sure.

DJAngelicon

Oh ok thanks, well if is the Alternator maybe I should upgrade it to a higher Alternator like a Second Gen?

Oh yea one thing, with the new one it was making all of my lights come on my dash board on and off and kind of flickering. Weird huh?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Alright. I checked the diagrams. The plug with the two terminals goes to the alt and power. One of the terminals goes to the output on the alt for the alt warning light. The plug with 4 wires has a ground, power, warning lights, and the other goes to the choke system and the oscillator. Everything should work without this relay with the exception of the choke.

I am thinking it is something with the alt. The output for controlling the warning lights is maybe flaking out. I would say the regulator in the alt is bad. Especially since you have strange problems when you put extra load on the electrical system. Do you get the weird stuff happening with the engine off? What is the voltmeter showing when the car is running? I would go have the alt tested. Go to AutoZone or other autoparts store you have local and get the alt tested. If it is bad, maybe this would be a good time to upgrade.

Also, have a look at the big output wire from the alt. Make sure it isn't shorting against ground. This wire also runs to the fusible links. Check both ends.

Kent

DJAngelicon

I will check those right now kent, When I did put the new relay in I notices my lights in my dask flaking out. When I turn the heater, lights, and press the brake the system like the RPM niddle go crazy up and down. Not to meantion my lights in the dash board go crazy. Beside that, Everything works with the wires disconnected. All electrical works fine until I put those wires back up. The little relay box sound like if is having a short making weir electrical sound from there. Also when the engine is turn off and I turn the key just to get electrical power before turning it on. Everything seem to work fine until the car turn on, all the lights go off. Then I press the brake and turn the heater and that is when it go crazy again. So, that is about what I have notices. Also the voltage stay below 12v around the line toward the left of the 12v which could be 10v or 8v not sure however, I know the power is way lower then normal. I have a big *** battery powerful one so I know is not my battery. I have new starter so I know my started is not doing anything wrong which I had clean all connection wires and everything is working fine with it.

In case if is my Alternator that is bad. Which Alternator should I get? I was told Second Generation Rx7 Alternator should be a good upgrade. But which one and what year?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

If you are bellow the 12v mark with the car running, the alt is probably dead. You are running off battery at that point. As the voltage drops, your ignition system as well as everything else will cut out and the car will stop running. Based on what you are saying, I am 99% sure it is the alt at fault, but get it tested to be sure. You may want to take the alt off to have it tested. If it is running off the batt, you may not be able to get it restarted. Or just have someone go with you in a separate car just in case.

If you want to upgrade, the 86-88 alts are a direct swap. The NA are 60amp and the TII are 70amp. If you need it fixed now, you will have to just get what you can find. Maybe a used alt from someone local would be a good choice. You can get a rebuilt from AutoZone or whatever as well. If you do, make sure it has a good warranty. Sometimes people will go through many rebuilt alts/starters from these places before they get a good one. The orignal alts in these cars are much better than most of the rebuilts out there.

DJAngelicon

Ok I checked the wire and everything seem to be fine. So, as the car warm up and the choked drop the little box was making weir noise again. My coolan light was flaking and my Exhaust Heat Lamp So, I am thinking I might just take the alternator to get it tested and see if the alt that is bad.

By the way last year I got that alternator tested and it was fine. However it could be bad for sure now.

DJAngelicon

So, mad I got the 88' 2nd Gen alternator but none of my screws from my old alternator work on it except the long one with washers. The little one dosen't work for the life of me and I when to buy screws and got this one that was M7.10 that though it works fine. Yea right it dosen't short and to top it off it spins when it get tight to hard. This is just my luck.

Dose anyone know what kind of screw a 86-88 2nd Gen Alternator use?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Sorry, man. I don't know the size offhand. If nobody knows, you can always check with the dealer. I am sure it will be more than the hardware store, though. I can see if I can find the part number for you.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

N326-18-397 (I think this is the short bolt)
9980-01-0105 (the other alternator bolt)

Did you get the old alt tested? If so, what did they find out?

Good luck.

Kent

DJAngelicon

yea got the old tested but failed of the bat, it didn't even get started. hehe I was there looking at the testing machine while they were doing it.

DJAngelicon

Ok I installed the Alternator in and it was cold so the car had a bit of problem starting but it did ran for a while good. The voltage was passed 12v however, once the choke drop the car had some problems with droping a bit of idle. The I turn off the car and restarted the car and it had problems starting. Then when it finaly did start the voltage was below 12v. Now I am not sure if this is the Battery or the Alternator die fast on me and I hope to GOD it didn't. Anyways the idle problem that happen now Is like what happen when the car was not tune. So, I will have to check the timing, wiring and the alternator to make sure the belt is not so tight and to make sure everything is ok.

Beside that, no electrical problems, no weird sound coming out of the check relay box. I am going to check battery fluid to make sure is full and wiring etc... tomorrow morning.