Chassis reinforcement bars?
Thread Starter
The infamous number guy!
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
Chassis reinforcement bars?
I've seen these bars available for Mustangs which bolt to the seat bolts, then weld in at each end. I'm curious if these are available for the FB, i'm going back to wanting to chop my roof and need a good way to support the unibody. I'm getting my license suspended for 6 months and need things to keep me busy during this time period, i'm going to sell my Cadillac to pay my fines and should have $1,000 left over to get a motor back in my GSL-SE (sold most of the FI stuff, so it will be a carbed 12a going in it), turbocharge my SR5 Corolla (already have a Starion turbo laying around), and chop the roof from my FB to have a fun summer car.
Not that i'll get to enjoy it this summer. -_-
Not that i'll get to enjoy it this summer. -_-
a good roll cage will stiffen the whole car up. i dont know how well CPracings cage will do but i know that custom ones that go from the rear to the front and have a cross beam against the firewall make one hell of a differance.
Thread Starter
The infamous number guy!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,953
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
Originally posted by 81Rex6port13b
a good roll cage will stiffen the whole car up. i dont know how well CPracings cage will do but i know that custom ones that go from the rear to the front and have a cross beam against the firewall make one hell of a differance.
a good roll cage will stiffen the whole car up. i dont know how well CPracings cage will do but i know that custom ones that go from the rear to the front and have a cross beam against the firewall make one hell of a differance.
Last edited by O 16581 72452 5; Mar 16, 2004 at 10:03 PM.
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what an ***.... haha
They are called sub-frame connectors....
just weld some bars all under there, it will be just the same......
my brother has an 88 coupe with subframe connectors on it to prevent twisting..... its just a bars that runs parrell, front to back, on either side of the car..... ghetto if you ask me.... just get some thick bar, and have at it... make a roll bar behind the seat, and add another bar to each side to make a small triangle goind forward, not so far up where you can see it though......
later
They are called sub-frame connectors....
just weld some bars all under there, it will be just the same......
my brother has an 88 coupe with subframe connectors on it to prevent twisting..... its just a bars that runs parrell, front to back, on either side of the car..... ghetto if you ask me.... just get some thick bar, and have at it... make a roll bar behind the seat, and add another bar to each side to make a small triangle goind forward, not so far up where you can see it though......
later
Thread Starter
The infamous number guy!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,953
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
Originally posted by 79+80+84_rx-7
what an ***.... haha
They are called sub-frame connectors....
just weld some bars all under there, it will be just the same......
my brother has an 88 coupe with subframe connectors on it to prevent twisting..... its just a bars that runs parrell, front to back, on either side of the car..... ghetto if you ask me.... just get some thick bar, and have at it... make a roll bar behind the seat, and add another bar to each side to make a small triangle goind forward, not so far up where you can see it though......
later
what an ***.... haha
They are called sub-frame connectors....
just weld some bars all under there, it will be just the same......
my brother has an 88 coupe with subframe connectors on it to prevent twisting..... its just a bars that runs parrell, front to back, on either side of the car..... ghetto if you ask me.... just get some thick bar, and have at it... make a roll bar behind the seat, and add another bar to each side to make a small triangle goind forward, not so far up where you can see it though......
later
I'll look into what you suggested however, where did your brother get his bars?
Well since there are full frame rails (still a unibody) going from front to back there are no subframes, per se, to connect.
I would do a full roll cage with the tie in's made to the rocker panels and the framerails. I know you don't want a roll cage but that's just what I'd do.
If you want to strengthen the unibody you could run another square tubing rail along the stock one and connect it to the rockers/frame rail. I don' t know.
I would do a full roll cage with the tie in's made to the rocker panels and the framerails. I know you don't want a roll cage but that's just what I'd do.
If you want to strengthen the unibody you could run another square tubing rail along the stock one and connect it to the rockers/frame rail. I don' t know.
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remember we ';talked' about this before.. don't cut anything untill you brace first..... a good welder, knowing how to weld, square tubing stock, some flat steel. no bolting to where the seats bolt,,,,no.
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
remember we ';talked' about this before.. don't cut anything untill you brace first..... a good welder, knowing how to weld, square tubing stock, some flat steel. no bolting to where the seats bolt,,,,no.
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
Thread Starter
The infamous number guy!
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,953
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From: Terre Haute, IN.
Originally posted by MarkPerez
remember we ';talked' about this before.. don't cut anything untill you brace first..... a good welder, knowing how to weld, square tubing stock, some flat steel. no bolting to where the seats bolt,,,,no.
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
remember we ';talked' about this before.. don't cut anything untill you brace first..... a good welder, knowing how to weld, square tubing stock, some flat steel. no bolting to where the seats bolt,,,,no.
sub-frame connectors run under the car tie the front to the rear the lenght of the firewall to right before the rear wheels. they have to be even, large enough diameter to be ridgid. then brace right behind the seats
connecting port to starboard again large enough diameter stock to be ridgid...... take a welding class and NO FENCE POST's !!!
A friend of mine purchased a good welder that i will have access to.
Not a definate plan, but if i have money left over after paying fines and turbocharging my SR5, i'd still like to do this.
Where am i going to be able to find ~80 inches of flat steel bars, it's not like they're as easy to find as fence posts.
Last edited by O 16581 72452 5; Mar 17, 2004 at 12:36 PM.
distant shot but u get idea. we made it as stiff yet light as possible. it's very easy to go ape adding tubes everywhere that marginally stiffen the car yet still add weight and cost.
nutjob check out www.cpracing.ca they have prebuilt cages.
Uni-body Mark.
Didn't touch the sub-frames. Don't need to really. It is pretty stiff as-is. I talked to the welder about extending bars from front strut towers down to frame and connecting front frame rails together in front of the engine but we all agreed it's unnecessary for 205RWHP on 10" rear slicks and just adding more weight and getting in the way.
We did a trick triangulated front strut tower brace. It's not in the attached picture but you can see the brackets and get the ideaer.
We did a trick triangulated front strut tower brace. It's not in the attached picture but you can see the brackets and get the ideaer.
bars, chassis, chop, fb, frame, mustang, rail, reinforcement, rienforcements, rx7, square, strengthening, top, tubing, undercarriage, weld



