Changing drive shaft
#1
callin' tokyo
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Changing drive shaft
'85 GSL has a terrible vibration when driving off or reversing from a dead stop. There is no vibration in all other gears. Front u-joint must be shot.
From what I've read there are three options:
-buy new driveshaft
-salvage used driveshaft
-send driveshaft out for repair
The problem I have is what do I plug the hole with while the shaft is out?
From what I've read there are three options:
-buy new driveshaft
-salvage used driveshaft
-send driveshaft out for repair
The problem I have is what do I plug the hole with while the shaft is out?
#3
callin' tokyo
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Not to sure if it's clutch chatter until I get under the car and take a look at the driveshaft. From what I understand the u-joint will be dry and have a sloppy feel. All the research I've done so far indicates a bad front u-jojnt.
What would clutch chatter do?
What would clutch chatter do?
#5
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Well it only vibrates from a dead stop for a second or two. Never in any other gears other than 1st or reverse.
So, what should I plug the hole with, once I pull the driveshaft?
So, what should I plug the hole with, once I pull the driveshaft?
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#10
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Originally Posted by FBDrifter
stuff a rag in and set newspaper under it.
Well if that's all it takes thanks a bunch! I knew the FSM specialty tool was load of ....
So now I'm off to find my left handed metric adjustable.
#11
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Mazdatrix has an aftermarket propshaft for $250.
As I recall, all the bad UJoints I've replaced have been rear UJoints.
You might consider a new trans mount: $28 from rockauto.com
b
As I recall, all the bad UJoints I've replaced have been rear UJoints.
You might consider a new trans mount: $28 from rockauto.com
b
#13
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Originally Posted by trochoid
Iirc, someone said the plastic cap from a spray can would fit. The only thing that's going to happen is the fliud will drain a bit. You can always catch that and refill after the shaft is reinstalled.
Seems though that we are talking about drips...
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I don't know guys, what I've done on any car I've changed u-joints on is simply back the car on to ramps so its nose down. Pull the shaft, and presto, since the tranny is downhill, nothing comes out. Also makes it easier to get the shaft out.
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
#20
Savanna Rx-7
Tokyo answering your call
Originally Posted by Dom
Yes, but I have to be able to WALK AWAY from the car after it's plugged!!!
lol
lol
Dom, What were you planning on stuffing it with?
Kenn
#21
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Originally Posted by Whanrow
I don't know guys, what I've done on any car I've changed u-joints on is simply back the car on to ramps so its nose down. Pull the shaft, and presto, since the tranny is downhill, nothing comes out. Also makes it easier to get the shaft out.
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
My diagnosis was derived mostly from the Mazdatrix link in the FAQ:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g2.htm
And then confirmed (?) with a search in the 1st gen section of this forum.
A driveshaft inspection seems to be a good place to start...
#22
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Park the car in 1st or reverse, then try pushing it to rock it back and forth. If the ujoints are bad, you'll be able to hear them clanking as it rocks.
#23
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Park the car in 1st or reverse, then try pushing it to rock it back and forth. If the ujoints are bad, you'll be able to hear them clanking as it rocks.
To bad I just finnished putting my perfectly good driveshaft back on.
The transmission mount seems to be good too.
Only thing left is the transmission, maybe the differential.
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