Changing drive shaft
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Changing drive shaft
'85 GSL has a terrible vibration when driving off or reversing from a dead stop. There is no vibration in all other gears. Front u-joint must be shot.
From what I've read there are three options:
-buy new driveshaft
-salvage used driveshaft
-send driveshaft out for repair
The problem I have is what do I plug the hole with while the shaft is out?
From what I've read there are three options:
-buy new driveshaft
-salvage used driveshaft
-send driveshaft out for repair
The problem I have is what do I plug the hole with while the shaft is out?
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,353
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Not to sure if it's clutch chatter until I get under the car and take a look at the driveshaft. From what I understand the u-joint will be dry and have a sloppy feel. All the research I've done so far indicates a bad front u-jojnt.
What would clutch chatter do?
What would clutch chatter do?
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Well it only vibrates from a dead stop for a second or two. Never in any other gears other than 1st or reverse.
So, what should I plug the hole with, once I pull the driveshaft?
So, what should I plug the hole with, once I pull the driveshaft?
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Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Originally Posted by FBDrifter
stuff a rag in and set newspaper under it.
Well if that's all it takes thanks a bunch! I knew the FSM specialty tool was load of ....
So now I'm off to find my left handed metric adjustable.
Iirc, someone said the plastic cap from a spray can would fit. The only thing that's going to happen is the fliud will drain a bit. You can always catch that and refill after the shaft is reinstalled.
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Originally Posted by trochoid
Iirc, someone said the plastic cap from a spray can would fit. The only thing that's going to happen is the fliud will drain a bit. You can always catch that and refill after the shaft is reinstalled.
Seems though that we are talking about drips...
Less than half of the 2+ qts. that are in the tranny. I like the new Folgers plastic coffee cans, they will hold all of the tranny fluid, when draining, snap the lid back on, then set aside until your ready to refill.
Certified Old Fart
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Inkerman, On, South of Ottawa, the 2nd coldest Capital in the World
I don't know guys, what I've done on any car I've changed u-joints on is simply back the car on to ramps so its nose down. Pull the shaft, and presto, since the tranny is downhill, nothing comes out. Also makes it easier to get the shaft out.
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Originally Posted by Whanrow
I don't know guys, what I've done on any car I've changed u-joints on is simply back the car on to ramps so its nose down. Pull the shaft, and presto, since the tranny is downhill, nothing comes out. Also makes it easier to get the shaft out.
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
Vibration just at start off doesn't sound a whole lot like u-joints. At least not any I've ever had wear out. You get a distinct clunk when first starting off, or switching to reverse, and a vibration at either a particular road speed, or all the time. I'd check them reall carefull before going to that expense. Any standard trans I've ever had will make this vibration from time to time, just depending on how you engage the clutch or if the flywheel is warped or the clutch burnt...
My diagnosis was derived mostly from the Mazdatrix link in the FAQ:
http://www.mazdatrix.com/g2.htm
And then confirmed (?) with a search in the 1st gen section of this forum.
A driveshaft inspection seems to be a good place to start...
Thread Starter
callin' tokyo
Joined: Dec 2002
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From: Windsor, Ontario
Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Park the car in 1st or reverse, then try pushing it to rock it back and forth. If the ujoints are bad, you'll be able to hear them clanking as it rocks.
To bad I just finnished putting my perfectly good driveshaft back on.
The transmission mount seems to be good too.
Only thing left is the transmission, maybe the differential.
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