82transam

iTrader: (18)

Well my clutch is dying and I plan to replace it this summer so I don't have any problems next semester at school. The car is a 83 with the original 12a and all that, whats involved in changing the clutch? I'm just gonna go with a stock replacement, no centerforce or anything. I have the general idea on how to do it, but from the looks of it the exhaust has to come off, is this true? any advice would be great. TIA

syklone

Sounds like me last summer! My clutch was shot all to hell, and it was my first major undertaking on the car. Yes, the exaust does need to move, but not really come off. If you unbolt it from the manifold, you can slide it back far enough to gain the needed clearance.

Are you going to replace the pilot bearing? Its a good idea to do that now, while you're changing the clutch.

In hind sight, I wish I would have put in a centerforce clutch. It was only about $100 more, and would have been a great investment. If something breaks, you might as well replace it with a nice performance part, IMO.

Once you get the tranny off, it goes supper quick, except for the pilot bearing. I spent 2 hours digging that little bugger out! Just take your time, and it'll go fine. It took me about 10 hours to do, but now I think I could cut it down to 5, just because I know what I'm doing.

Good luck with the clutch

syklone

Damn Double post

poweRX-7

man, i was just about to make the same post! my clutch is slipping too, and it is getting really bad. i went ahead and ordered a centerforce stage 2 clutch, pilot, and release bearing, which i recieved some time ago. I just haven't had time to put them in. I have never changed a clutch on the seven, so i am also wondering about the work that will go into it. are there any special tools that i will need? any of you guys know of any suggestions to make it go smoother? thanks
jeff

Suparslinc

Don't you need to drop the driveshaft to remove the tranny? If so I think its four 14 mm nuts, with the car in gear and on jack stands.

CHEF_EG_1

You've got 2 options.... pull the engine, or drop the tranny.


Pulling the engine takes like a half hour if you have all the lines disconnected. I think our record was 22minutes.


But, that's also with having the tranny disconnected from the engine. I think it's 8, 14mm bolts that connect the tranny to the engine, 2 engine mounts, and a couple coolant lines, the oil cooler line, and that's it, IIRC.

Never dropped the tranny before.... but from what I hear, you need a 12oz. Styrofoam dixie cup to go on the rear of the tailshaft of the tranny to keep all the oil from spilling out.


Either way you do it.... DO NOT HESITATE TO BUY A CLUTCH ALIGNMENT TOOL. It's like 3 bucks at AutoZone...

82transam

iTrader: (18)

yea i plan on getting the tool. I dont wanna yank the engine just for that. Technically you shouldn't need a cup over the tail shaft that should seal, then again its a 20 year old car, anything could happen. Too bad i gotta disconnect the exhaust, its so rusted it would never go back together right (assuming i get it off in one piece in the first place) I'll have ot wait till i have enought money for a exhaust system as well and do it all at once.

CrazyJoe12a

AutoZone rents a special tool for removing the pilot bearing, works pretty good. It involves a puller that grips the bearing, and a slide hammer that attaches to the puller. You'll probably have to file down the ends on it a bit so it will fit in the bearing, I've had to on all the ones I've rented.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

thats the beauty of working at a gas station i can borrow tools like that.

bliffle

Need the clutch alignment tool and some way to remove the pilot bearing (usually a slide hammer). I think Mazdatrix has apilot bearing tool that they're proud of.

F

Ultralights

hahahaahh my clutch is on its way out as well, this time im going to pull the engine out, I changed the cogbox just 2 weeks ago while on a roadtrip, NEVER again! all we had was ramps to get the car up, GRRRRRRR,
but this time with the engine out i am going to replace the flywheel with a lightened one and a good clutch and generally give the engine a good going over and a bit of TLC.

hanman

1. Pull the exhaust
2. Drain the tranny, good time to update with synthetic.
3. Disconnect and remove the starter.
4. Pull the stick shift. Good time to replace the boots and the shifter bushings. They have got to be worn out by now. Mazdatrix has a good writeup on this procedure.
5. Pull the tranny. It's not real heavy, but I would put a jack under it.
6. Pull the old clutch, release bearing, main oil seal, flywheel, pilot seal and bearing. I use a tool from Harbor Freight, $14. I had to grind the "feet" down, but it works great now. I would highly suggest this or something similar, or else you will take hours getting the old bearing out.
7. Resurface the flywheel. You will regret it if you don't.
8. Put in new clutch etc, including a new rear main oil seal.
Take your time and do it right.
I would have spare gaskets available for the exhaust, the old ones will be shot.
Be very careful when replacing the tranny, don't wrench it too much or you will ruin the main engine oil seal, and then you will be doing this all again very soon when the oil ruins your clutch.
Good luck,
hanman

poweRX-7

i am bringing this thread back now that i am in the process of replacing my clutch (only one month after my origional post on this thread. I have a couple of question, but will tell you what i have done so far.

well, i removed the driveshaft, header, presilencer, and heat shields. Then i drained the tranny fluid, and removed the starter and slave cylinder. Then i dropped the tranny. (if it sounds like i had an easy time, i am sorry... i didn't. I ran into many problems, but don't want to bore everyone with details)
Then i pulled the clutch off, and pulled the flywheel off (this is very easy with a 500lb impact gun
I had my flywheel resurfaced and picked up a rear main seal, an output shaft seal, lithium grease, and tranny fluid. I already have the pilot and release bearings.

So, here i am... i still have to pull out the pilot bearing, which i am working on, and replace the seals. One question is, how do i replace the rear main seal? I couldn't find anything in Haynes that shows how to get it out or replace it. Same goes with the seal on the output shaft.
Also, since i am using a new centerforce clutch, is there any certain way to line up the flywheel and clutch?
If anyone has any questions on how i did things, they can pm me... i had a friend help me take it out and he knew a couple of tricks to make it easier.

any info would help.
thanks, jeff

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

2433 posts and youre asking for advise. Is this a joke? like this one...where does the TII engine come from?

CrazyJoe12a

When I replaced my rear main and output shaft seal, I had to use a propane torch and heat the area around the seals up, then popped them out with a small pry bar. If you leave the new seals in the freezer overnight, they go in much easier. Just gently tap them in.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Go **** yourself, just because I have a lot of posts doesn't mean I know everything. God forbid I ask a simple question. Everyone has to learn there big guy. So either help or go to hell.

coldy13

If you are going to resurface the flywheel, good luck getting it off. Hopefully yours won't be stuck on as bad as mine was. I used a 3' torque wrench to get to get the nut off. Still couldn't move it by hand, had to prop myself against the side of the garage and push on it with my feet. I bent a 1'' thick steel flywheel puller like it was nothing. So I had a 2'' thick steel puller made, it snapped a bolt, got 2 new bolts, finally got the flywheel off.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

**** YOU TOO!!!

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Good one, hope you didn't hurt yourself thinking of that. Whats up with the ******* attitude? Got something stuck in your *** or something? go to hell you lowlife scumbag.

adam c

iTrader: (2)

When you are ready to pull the flywheel, don't remove the flywheel nut all the way. Leave it on loosely, just so the flywheel doesn't come flying off when you loosen it.

CrazyJoe12a

If you have an air compressor this will be MUCH easier. the nut is 54mm, which just the socket from Sears cost me like $40. Gently tap the backside of the flywheel but make sure you thread the nut back on so the FW doesn't land on you.

When helping my buddy do his, we had to take the engine to a nearby garage and let them hit it with an impact.

82transam

iTrader: (18)

Yea, That 54mm nut must suck, I assume that takes like a 3/4" drive impact I don't think my boss even has one of those, guess I'll have to rent it or something. Who here has a Racing beat lightweight steel flywheel, the 16lb one? Is it worth getting or should i just turn the original flywheel?

jr69187

82 that depends on wether or not you want to buy the counterwieghts to go with it. Those are kinda costly if your lucky you can find an auto tranny and steal them off it. I have yet to install mine due to i popped i water seal and it is in the shop getting rebuilt and ported some more.

jr

poweRX-7

yeah, that big flywheel nut is no problem at all with the help of an air compressor, and a 500lb impact gun!
worked lovely!

CrazyJoe12a

My worn out 1/2" drive impact did fine.