JoeyMazda

GOOd luck

Starfox07

That is the hottest avatar I've ever seen ^^

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

I would have suggested sending it to Sterling in the first place. He knows exactly what he's doing and he could probably also do some basic mods for you for a couple extra bucks ie: Accel pump mod, mechanical secondaries. Or save your pennies and go all out with a 465CFMSterling. On the other hand I do understand not wanting to wait or deal with shipping and the convenience of having someone in the area.

Good luck. I hope he doesn't **** it up.

Sterling

Now don't get him all nervous about it!

Your carb is gonna be fine. You got a great price, and anyone who's been inside any carb before will know what all the components are and how they should work. He won't miss anything.
It's not hard to rebuild the Nikki. Be sure to give the carb a good chance to get running correctly when you install it. It can flood wildly at first to the point where it won't run long enough to set your idle.

For example, the needles come with a matt finish on them and the seats have a fine texture on the insides from machining. This can cause them to bind when the carb is initially installed. As a result, they stick open and flood the carb. Tapping the tops of each banjo bolt lets them drop in, pushed up by the floats. Then you have to unflood the engine. Then when you get it started again, it all happens again.
This can be a frustrating pain in the ***, but as the needles move up & down inside the seats, the contact points of the float valves become polished just from the rubbing, and the binding eventually stops.
It's just one of those things that can happen, but as long as you're aware of it, you'll know it's temporary, and that the builder didn't mess anything up.

Also, make sure you hook up your float bowl solenoid. It's the solenoid that's at the very top of the carb on the driver's side (the front of the carb). It has a black & white wire and needs to be hooked to an ignition-switched, 12v positive.
That little thing pulls out a spring loaded plunger that closes the carburetor breather vent when the engine is off. It's function is to keep fuel vapor from escaping into atmosphere when the car is not running. (While it's running, any fuel vapors get sucked right into the engine).
If it's not hooked up, the carb will flood irradically. It'll effectively vapor-lock the carburetor.

Make sure you see two nice squirts come from the acelerator pump nozzel into the two primary barrels when you operate the linkage by hand. If you do this with the engine off, (which means the fuel pump is not on) the rear float bowl fuel level will go down when testing the acelerator pump. That's the source for the AP (right behind the pump cover). So don't freak out if it squeezes out 5 squirts and then seems to stop working all of the sudden!

Idle tuning instructions can be found here: http://www.sterlingmetalworks.com/tuning.htm

kcscott11

Thank you everyone. And thank you sterling. I appreciate your input man. And thanks so much for the tips. I cant wait to get this thing back... it should be monday!

kcscott11

Ok, the guy said he couldnt rebuild the carburetor... i took it somewhat apart and everything seemed to be in working order, i cleaned things up, etc. and put it back on the car, as i was doing this, i saw this black round thing that looked like something should be hooked up to, and there wasnt anything to hook up to it. So i reffered to my pictures i took before i took it off and guess what it wasnt hooked up in the picture either. Is there supposed to be something hooked up to this? What is it? Do i need it hooked up to operate correctly? Please let me know... the picture is attached!

Also on another note, I dont recall seeing anyway the oil is feeding into the engine... is this done through the carb or intake or what? how can i tell if thats working, so im sure the person who owned the car before my self has not been premixing gas, that way ill know if i need to! And one more thing..... does walmart sell seafoam? is it in automotive?

kcscott11

is this the right stuff (seafoam)? http://www.autozone.com/selectedZip,.../selectZip.htm

kcscott11

well i bought the seafoam, ran some straight through the carb hoping to get it running better, the rest in the gas tank, its idling good, but dies on the road then hard to get bck started.... i just pushed it the second time today. I was thinking maybe i have a seal sticking or something hoping to free it up. I think its my secondaries messing up maybe it seems lik when i kick them in is when it starts running bad.....

kcscott11

Ok, I have been complaining of a carb problem. I didnt get it rebuilt, but I went through alot of it, and everything seems clean and like its functioning properly! I believe its either the fuel filter, fuel pump or my secondaries... Its like.... itll be running really well, and if i open up my secondaries, the car goes to sputtering and jerking and becomes powerless... and eventually dies and wont start. Push it home wait a lil bit and it fires back up, but only to do the same thing. It seems to rev good when in neutral all the way to redline no problem. But when i rev it to the red, and it goes back down it idles rough, until it slowly builds back up to 1 and a half grand then smooths out and thats where it idles. And will idle forever if i let it! Also I pulled the fuel line off and turn the key on, and it barely barely dripped fuel.... so im thinking maybe the fuel pump isnt pumping enough fuel, or something....

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

check/replace fuel filter first

1stGenJake

1st - Fuel filter. Its the cheapest for start. That way your not putting money out that you may not need to.

JoeyMazda

Where's it dripping from, primary or secondary? Does it have the vaccuum system on? When you closed the carb. did you set up the floaters to factory specification?

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

mods doing clean up and stacking each owners threads into the same? that's kinda cool, anyways, the oil lines are attached to the carburetor, right underneath the fuel lines there are two nipples, that's where they attach

kcscott11

oh boy, i dont think the previous owner had oil lines hooked up.... if you look at the picture i posted earlier, You may can tell that they are not hooked up..... what ratio should I premix, and im curious if it is premix he had in it..... anyway to tell on that??

And yea i understand why the mods "clean up" but i really wanted this to be a separate thread, but i can live with it being the same one... at least the name is different now lol. and they were both my thread...

blackdeath647

iTrader: (2)

how long have you ran it w/out premix or the oil lines hooked up?...do you still have the OMP? or is it blocked off? if it's not blocked off then all you gotta do is reinstall the lines (make sure you fill them up with oil first), and hope no damage was done.

fyi the omp (in case you didn't know) is located right underneath the water pump, on passenger's side, next to the exhaust.

kcscott11

I think the po has premix in it, by the way the exhaust smells.... i have had it a few months, but it has never been a dd or anything, not dependable enough to make it round the block.... so basically just working on it, maybe 5 miles... The gas is dripping from the front two barrels, which doesnt seem normal, shohuldnt it be both small barrels?? Think the carb is the issue, its getting gas good and still idling good. Im glad i changed the fuel filter just a moment ago, it was stopped up pretty good, and there was a fuel leak....

kcscott11

Ok guys im 90 percent sure its the fuel pump tinkering out now. It has to be it barely drizzles fuel from the carb, and even from the fuel line when i pull the hose off the carb. The fuel pump used to be loud and obvious when it came on, i notice now i can barely hear it, and sometimes cant hear it. Im quite sure this is what going on, it runs great then eventually dies exactly like im out of gas, i wait a few minutes and its like there is enough gas in the bowls to start back up... goes a lil ways just to die again, what do yall think, please let me know soon. ALso, im curious if the fuel pump from my 85 parts car will fit in there, i figure its worth a try before buying a new one....

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Based on that, it could be:

Plugged fuel pickup
Plugged fuel filter
Plugged fuel line
Failing pump

A good stock fuel pump will put out a strong stream of fuel from an open feed line. If it's just dribbling, there's clearly something not right prior to the carb.

kcscott11

Thats what i needed to know, I honestly think its the pump going out, its just not as loud as it was, i can barely hear it.... Ill pull the fuel line off at the filter and see how it pumps from there....
My question is, if I pull the pump out of my 85 parts car, will it work in the 79??

UPDATE: I just went outside and pulled the line off, and turn the key on, it was squirting pretty steady, so i put it on the carb, it started right up, idled, then finaly died like it ran out of gas, pulled the hose off and it wasnt pumping anymore.... but dribbling a bit. I think the pump has teetered out...

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

Stock pumps from an 85 and a 79 are very different, based on pix I've seen around here; maybe one will fit somehow on the other, but it won't fit the same way.

kcscott11

ehh, thats alright, oreillys carrys one for 70.00 and i got to get the strainer thing for it to have a warranty, so for 100.00 maybe this d*** car will finally run! maybe not, but one kink at a time is all i can work out.....

kcscott11

Ok this car doesnt want to work. It really just doesnt. It doesnt like me :-( lol. Im starting to get pretty pissed at it, between pushing it home, and breaking down, then jumping it off, and it running home, spinning the wheels shifting in to second and not even meaning to break em loose lol, i dont knwo what its problem is. It runs like ****, it runs good, it runs like ****, it runs good, so on. The fuel pump had definitely gone bad. But i think it was making the carburetor seem good, its hard to flood the engine when its be starved for gas. I finally got the new fuel pump worked out where the gas is flowing good through all the lines, with no leaks.... man fuel hose from 79 is brittle lol, had to replace alot of junk line. Anyhow, now the carb is flooding like crazy again. The thing is, i tore the carb down and cleaned and examined everything, and it everything seemed clean, and free to move, nothing sticking, etc. So what else would cause it to flood like crazy??? please help me figure this out, as its all there is keeping me from finishing this project!!

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I went thru quite a bit of issues with flooding when I finished my last rebuild (chronicled here: https://www.rx7club.com/build-threads-293/project-resurrection-running-log-770184/ - - flooding discussion starts post 67)

Bottom line was I had to mix and match needles and seats before I found a combination that would properly seat every time, at correct float levels - - somethng I'd never had to do before on previous rebuilds.

Right now, I'm working against a sometime-floods-when-restarted-hot issue that may be related to the bowl vent solenoid.

There's a few discussions in the archives that mention that new needles can frequently be "sticky" until they have a chance to wear in; Might be that, too.

Sounds like you are in the "mess with it for a while" zone.

kcscott11

haha a while has been since i got the dang thing. I think i should just probably send it to sterling and let him rebuild it. My vent bowl solenoid wasnt hooked up, but i just fixed it, unflooded the engine, cleaned the plugs and such, and try starting it, wouldnt start, gas pours out of the spark plugs when i pull them out already after cranking on it for a minute or so, its just pouring gas straight into the damn engine.