resjsu

yup air pump is on brand new belt

Midwest 7's

iTrader: (4)

and you guys think you have it good in cali.

Rogue_Wulff

Is the tube from the manifild to the cat intact? If that is broken, or has a hole in it, the cats cannot do their job, and will eventually plug up. Of course, they could be plugging up anyways, due to old age.
Was the car well warmed up at the time of this test? For best results, you need to drive it at highway speed for a few miles just prior to the test so the cats are fully heated up.
If the air injection system is fully intact, and funtioning, but the car was not fully warmed up, the readings will be high.
Could also just need the mixture re-adjusted.

resjsu

aww cmon man dont rip on me im having trouble here! u would hit me when im down........lol

resjsu

mixture been re-adjusted and adjusted and the mechanic says he checked all the solenoids (rats nest thing) .... this is what leads me to believe it is the carb

resjsu

plus the guy who gave the smog check said a lot of unburned gasoline was passing through the engine and out the exhaust.... even he suggested fiddling with the carb.

resjsu

i had just put on new spark plugs, new ngk spark plug wires, new distributor cap and distributor....

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

How many miles on the car, are the cats still the factory one's, where is the fuel level in the windows on the front and rear of the carb?

Were you the one that said you were missing the flapper in the fuel fill neck? don't remember if it was you or another post.

Gas cap just needs replaced.

resjsu

no i didnt say anything about a flapper sorry.fuel levels on the cat?

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Front and rear bowls of the carb have windows, that is how one tells if the fuel level inside the bowls is correct, relates directly to how the floats are set.

vxturboxv

iTrader: (2)

Why don't people listen.... Drive your car close to empty. Go to a paint store and but a 5 gallon can of denatured alcohol. Go to the gas station and dump in the alcohol and fill the tank with about 3 gallons of 87. (thats 8 gallons all together) Turn your timing down and adjust mixture screw all the way in until the car almost dies and back it out a half to whole turn.

*NOTE* an engine needs more fuel to run properly with alcohol. So you might have to richen the mixture all the way and then do the step above****

The car might act a little odd on the cruise over to the emissions shop. But it should idle just fine for the sniffer test.

After you pass go straight to the gas station fill up with 87 and set your timing and mixture back.

resjsu

lol that sounds like a quick fix and i might have to do that just to get out on the road again. Have you tried it? pm me and tell me exactly what to do...all the details!

P-low

i was the one talkin about the flapper in the fuel fill neck. the smog dude said it was the fuel inlet restricter, it was a visual check. i did a search for it at autozone and at the dealership and they couldnt find it. so im assuming our cars dont have em. i remember rx7carl sayin our fuel caps are sealed and not vented so i guess our cars dont need one.

ray green

iTrader: (14)

I like carbs, got to like the SUs on my 144 and MGB. Now I got a GSL and I'm happy as ****. And those Nikkis work good, once you get them figured out.

Ray

lovemyrx7se

Just Pay The Guy To Pass It With Another Car Lol

slashdawg00110

OK, but is the air getting to the cat?


Do you have a repair manual (FSM or Haynes)? Do the ACV operation checks. Make sure the tube to the cat is connected (assuming stock cat, not familiar with high-flow cats).

I doubt it has anything to do with the carb. You failed both idle and cruise. The mixture controls are different for idle and cruise. The mixture screw only controls idle mix. So if you've messed with that, set it to about 3 -3.5 turns out. Mix at other speeds is controlled by the jets and bleeds. Unless they're plugged or you've replaced them, the mix ought to be about right for passing emissions testing.

Your problem is much more likely to be related to ignition (but you've replaced plugs, wires and cap/rotor, right) or catalytic converter. Make sure the air system is working. If it is, my bet is that the cat is bad. No carb changes will fix that.

rotornoob

iTrader: (2)

now i may get flamed for this but......on the CA carb, the mixture screw is hidden....so unless the cap has been removed the only screw on the carb he will be able to adjust on his own at home is the idle speed screw......unless he has removed the cap (btw does anyone have pictures of where this cap is? i have both 83 and 82 CA carbs and i would like to know where the cap is so i can remove it)

i agree with previous posts though......check the cat and pre-cat (pre-cat normally won't go bad from what i am told although there is still a chance that it has clogged) and replace the main cat first BEFORE doing any carb repalcement. also i reccommend replacing all of the vaccuum lines and such for the rats nest as the tend to become brittle after 20+ years of use. make sure that you are getting air to the cat as stated above.

slashdawg00110

The idle mix screw is on the driver's side at the base. It's almost directly below the fuel intake, right in the middle of the base. The "cap" is a metal helmet that is fitted over the screw. I don't have a picture, but the FSM or haynes manuals will show it.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

that depends who you're dealing with.

Im offering you $250 since it wont pass smog. Dotn tell me BS about donating it as you wont get a tax break without a legal bill of sale (after it was auction or sold). So let me know.