3RD week!? Wtf I'd be running the joint after a day! LMFAO! Yes the tips. Go on sterlings site he has info on it.

 

I would call them the 'corners' since the tip is rubber of some kind. the needle shafts are square shaped inside a round hole, so the four corners are the parts rubbing against the seat.

 

Wrong

Right.

It's the rubber like tips that seal/shut off the gas, don't mess with them. The 4 square corners are what hang up in the seat tube due to machining burs.
burnish/polish these burs down and the needles won't stick.

 

So just use a rotary tool with a small polishing wheel on it?

 

i think that would remove too much. i just use a razor edged knife and lightly scrape the surface until its shiny. trying it sterlings way, with the oil and rubbing with a polished surface, never worked for me, but i may not have been doing it right.

 

meant the same thing.

 

 

Yep

 

no reason wh it s houldn't. just make sure you have the water temp switch in the rear of the water pump housing in good order. if its bad or the wires are corroded or broken, the choke will work but will retract instantly instead of being held open until the engine is warm by the choke magnet.

 

yeah i have to prop mine out. got i pic of what your talkin about so i can check mine?

 

Is this the one your talkin about?

Mines plugged in but the connections are corroded.

 

thats the one!

 

I guess my real question is what minimal parts are absolutely necessary for my choke to work? So is that the only thing that's required to make the choke stay out on it's own? I don't mind propping it out but it would be nice if I didn't have to.

 

vac secondaries wont work with it cut like that though will it?

 

Yes they will work fine.

 

ehhh i think ill leave it alone other than removing the heat shield

 

That is a temp-sensing switch that is on below a certain temp and off above it (60 celcius). As long as that circuit is connected, power is supplied to the choke magnet below that temp which holds it open.

IMO there is no need for a lot of other choke stuff, I remove the butterflies and everything except the fast idle mechanism. This simply pushes the throttle open as the choke is pulled out.

Here is a pic of the fast idle mechanism (modified slightly)

 

gotcha that's cool that'll clean the carb up a lot but just outta curiosity why remove the butterfly? my sensor is hooked up but my choke doesn't stay out on its own. I read in an old thread that there's somethin near the choke **** behind the dash that may have come unplugged so I'm gonna check that out tomorrow.

 

Well it's not needed, plus it looks like it would cause a bit of a restriction at the inlet so it might as well go

 

sounds good to me. how did you plug the holes left by the rod?

 

Ok so I was trying to figure out why my choke wont stay out on its own so i replaced the assembly under the dash as well as the cable with no prevail. I was gonna replace the sensor that's in the water pump housing but I thought some one said it might be the ECU and I thought that might be easier to replace (or at least i wont spill half a gallon of coolant while swapping that out. So could it be the ECU? how hard is it to swap it out? and can I use the ECU out of my 83 GS in my 83 S?

 

Two wires connect to the no. 1 water temp switch. It is the one on the back of the thermostat housing. The black /white wire should have 12v when ignition is turned on. The Blue/white wire goes to the choke magnet in the dash control. When the car is cold the sensor should connect the two wires and energize the choke magnet, holding the **** where you put it. If you connect the two wires in the harness plug together the magnet should stay energized whenever the car is on. If the magnet works this way, but not with the sensor plugged in (when cold), then the sensor or its wires are bad.

 

so i should try bridging the wires in the connector where it plugs into the sensor? and if the choke stays out then the sensor is bad. gotcha ill give that a try but if that doesnt keep the choke out then what else could it be?

 

I forgot to answer your question. The ECU does not effect the operation of the choke magnet. All 83 ECUs are the same.

 

alright thanks ill go make a jump wire and give it a try later. so is that pretty much the only possible culprit?