I just picked up a 1st gen for cheap and need some help. I bought the car knowing it needs work and seller says the engines needs the seals to be replace. But he doesn't know which seals.

Upon inspection i notice a few drops of coolant coming out of the lower spark plug holes so i'm assuming the coolant seals are done. So the engine is coming out anyways.

I did a compression test but that failed bc the car started while the compression gauge was hooked up(didn't remove the right relay/fuse) but i did notice while the engine was cranking the compression went up to 30psi>60psi then car started. I will do a real compression test tomorrow. Just letting you guys know.

My question is...Does the car not idle bc of a internal engine problem or external?

The car starts up in 3-5 seconds but won't stay on unless i hold on to the throttle above 2k rpm. After i ease the pedal down to around 1.3k-1.5rpm the engine dies.

Here's a video...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e89WM8N5NUs

In the video as soon as the car starts i rev it up to 2k-2.5krpm and slowly let go of the pedal. Once it reaches 1.3k-1.5krpm the rpm drops and engine dies.

BTW this is my first 1st gen and 1st time working on a 12a so that's why i posted this thread.



Thanks
-Moe

 

mines that i just got is doing the exact same hopefully someone can help us both out. does your cat start to turn bright red if you hold it at 2k running since mine does

 

Check for air leaks, in the intake, vaccuum hoses, etc. Just work your way down the list. Hopefully she's not terminal, but good used 12a's are a dime a dozen.

 

i would say vacume leak as well it is the most common reason for any engine to not idle correctly.

 

Check out the hose that runs from the Anti-Afterburn Valve #2. If I wasn't at work I'd post up the picture. It runs from the back of the carb, down the firewall and to the back of the intake manifold. If I remember correctly, it's about 5/8" ID. It cooks directly above the stock exhaust manifold, and breaks over time. That's where I'd start looking.

 

Once you finish fixing vacuum leaks, adressing tuneup items, setting ignition timing, here are the instructions on how to tune the carb for proper idle:

http://sterlingmetalworks.com/tuning_the_nikki.htm

Good luck.




.

 

Thanks guys!
I haven't worked on the car much but I'll update once I do.

 

I just fixed the vacuum leaks on my FB and tuned my carb. Shoot me a PM if you need any pointers.

Also, I'll be in Van Nyse (sp? (the valley)) between 12/27 and 1/1 (fly in on the 26th and out on the 2nd). IDK if I'll have any time to help you out, but if you have time, I could take a quick look at it, if you were to drive to wherever I was (no car while i'm out there...).

 

I live near Dodger Stadium. Give me a hawler

 

Will do.

 

When I first got mine it had that problem. Ended up being the shutter valve.

 

Just check out the car and notice some vacuum lines that are open.

I'm a noob to the 12a and carb so i don't know the terms...

Most of the hoses that runs to the top blue thing were disconnected.


What are these open lines on the fire wall for?


I found 2 cables zip tied together, was there a reason for this, should i put them back?


I'll check the vac. diagram but where does this vac. line go? It's the last one towards the fire wall on the rats nest.


So far i reconnected everything except for the last pictured but my battery is dead so i'll have to wait till i get a new one.

 

I'm going to rebuild the engine anyways and rebuild the carb or go with a Rotary Shack OER 45mm Carb Kit. So i guess there really isn't a point of me trying to fix any of this since most of it will be replace with new anyways.

 

You shouldn't have to rebuild the motor. There are a ton of guys in the SoCal area who I'm sure would help you out with the fix.