ClineStine

A week and a half ago I washed the engine off on the drivers side to try to remove as much oil as possible to figure out where im leaking oil from. I believe I used a product called black magic engine degreaser while the engine was warm, border line hot. Before I washed the engine the car ran fine (fine in terms of how it usually drives) after I washed it, it cranks but does not start. I figured I got the distributor wet or something else so I let it sit a while and its still not starting.

I've began to do some basic trouble shooting, but im really rusty with mechanics now so I could really use some help.
when I washed the engine I removed the spark plug cables, I am fairly certain that I put them back on correctly. I did get the distributor wet which is why I let it sit for a few days to dry, I know I know rookie mistake to get the distributor wet.
I have spark after the ignition coils the ones that plug into the distributor, and I have spark at the spark plugs ( I only checked one plug and It shocked the hell outta me so im assuming distributor is ok? I will check all four plugs tomorrow hopefully)
also, one key factor I believe is the way its starting now. It is starting in a way ive never heard it do before or any other of my cars either, it tries to start but the starting seems to drop briefly if that makes sense, it doesn't completely stop starting but it sounds like its slowing down almost stopping for a split second then picks up again. I notice now when I was jumping the battery with another car that it does it in a consistent pattern, ill try to get a video but for now ill try lol... start start start start start - slow slow - start start start start - slow slow - start start start start - slow slow....
it is a stock 12a with no mods, any questions about it that would be helpful to know ill be glad to answer. I really appreciate the help guys :/

would it prevent the car from starting if I got some water in the oil? Im not sure but I may have gotten a small amount of water in the oil through the dip stick seal.
thank you very much in advance for any advice and help it is greatly appreciated!

ClineStine

85k miles on motor by the way.

sommmatt

iTrader: (2)

If the cranking slows down or speeds up in a consistent pattern you're looking at some sort of compression issue, an inconsistency in the crank speed shows an inconsistency in the combustion chambers.

Gotta start with the basics. Check the compression, check the plugs, see if it runs on brake clean or something similar.

Next time remember to wash an engine while it's running and let it run for a long time after!

ClineStine

thank you!
is there another way to test compression besides with a tester? I know that's probably a dumb question, but I wont be able to buy a compression tester for a few weeks

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

Whoa! It could mean an issue with spark just as easily.

Did you pull the cap and rotor and spray liberally with WD40 to dry it out? If not then
its probably still damp or wet in there. If all you did was wash the car I doubt you
suddenly have compression issues, more likely electrically related and ignition related
to boot.

If you used a power washer make sure it didn't knock any electrical connections or
vacuum connections askew.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

I'm with Farrell, I wash my motor when I wash my car, never any issues. It's something simple.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

If you swapped the front and rear chamber plug wires when you removed them, you'll get everything except an actual start because you'll be firing 180 degrees out. It will sound like it almost starts but won't actually start.

Front is 1, rear is 2 on the distributor cap markings.

t_g_farrell

iTrader: (1)

I won't ask how you know this.

Oops! I guess I did

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

One of those lessons burned into my memory, hehe.

Last rebuild (spring 2012), I spent the better part of 2 evenings trying to figure out why the car would not start. Checked EVERYTHING a million times.

You can guess the rest.

ClineStine

I was thinking the same thing, its probably electrical. I did not use a pressure washer, would the distributor still be damp after two weeks? I did remove the ignition cables from the coils to distributor and removed all the other cables from distributor to the plugs, could you please be very specific with the order of these please? im not sure which coils are for which, im pretty sure I got the cables going from distributor to the plugs right, but im not sure exactly which are which now.

DivinDriver

iTrader: (15)

I'm uncertain of which coil is which in an FB; on an SA, the rearmost coil (black boot on the primary wire) goes to the center ( L ) socket on the dizzy; the frontmost coil (blue boot on the primary wire) goes to the outer ( T ) socket on the dizzy.

Yes, they're backwards; Front is Trailing, Rear is Leading. Don't know why, they just are.

If in doubt, swap them; if no change, swap them back before you do anytyhing else.

ClineStine

yeah I tried switching them around to see if I got some backwards but at no avail. so id like to know the exact order for them, and its not in my Haynes manual anywhere >.> and I havnt had much luck finding it online either.

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Front coil trailing, rear leading on 85. Didja spray a little choke cleaner down the carb and try cranking? I would do that, just to see what happens.

ClineStine

Thank you, and the bottom spark plugs are leading and the top spark plugs are trailing correct??

ClineStine

if that's the correct order for them: front coil trailing and rear coil leading, bottom spark plugs leading and top spark plugs trailing, then they are on correctly, and still starting oddly. help

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

1 is fore rotor, 2 is aft. It will start. Positive mental attitude.

Titan's Hammer

Correct

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

You made sure the ground on the distributor is tight? Put a volt meter on the ground wires to make sure there not under 12v. Made sure the wires on the starter aren't loose, bad connection? If its electrical I would start from battery and troubleshoot some connections and make sure the voltage is good. Checked the fuses etc etc.

ClineStine

haha, I know there are rotaries in aircraft and boats but im a bit rusty with that terminology lol, fore being front? and aft being rear? im trying to keep a positive mindset and not get stressed too much, my 7 needs much attention but hadn't much time lately.

ClineStine

havnt checked distributor ground, been thinking about checking the distributor, but I had a spark on one spark plug that I checked, still need to check them all. I don't have a volt meter anymore I checked the fuses in driver side, keep forgetting to look and check the ones in engine bay if there are any there.

Is starting fluid in the carb bad for my apex seals or any other seals??? I thought I remember reading that it may harm the seals if burned? I put starting fluid in the carb last night and cranked, and at first 2-3 seconds of cranking it did the usual drop/slow crank its been doing since I washed engine, then after it cranked normally! but the battery died within about 30 seconds of starting continuously ( I usually never crank a car that long but I was excited to hear it crank normally without slowing down/dropping off for a few (about 2) cranks like its been doing) Im worried that the starting fluid is bad for the engine or seals though..

ClineStine

if I remember right I believe that's how mine on the fb are sounds same as the sa
front coil.. fore, is trailing and rear coil.. aft, is the leading lol

ClineStine

I thought you said starting fluid so I got some yesterday but you said choke cleaner...
is there a big difference? once again Is the starting fluid bad for apex seals? the starting fluid seemed to help it crank normally but my battery died soon after.

ClineStine

ALSO
if there was water mixed with the oil would that prevent it from starting??
I think there may be a possibility that water mixed with the oil via poor seal around my dipstick. im positive at least a small amount got in there because I seen it on dip stick when I removed and checked it after the result of not starting after the wash. but not sure if a lot got in there, im almost certain it was a half quart low on oil before the wash and now after dip stick reads full....
would the water-oil mix kill the compression or prevent it from firing? could this explain the sudden erratic cranking after the wash?

all the help is greatly appreciated guys, thank you very much for the replies!!!

Cookboy

iTrader: (10)

Three letters, starts with A, that's back any way you go about it.
Yeah, check every plug, ground, connection again.
Sounds like you oughta change oil regardless.
Choke cleaner, starter fluid. I use choke cleaner to start my 30 year old riding mower. Works every time. I've used it on my 7 too. Works for me.
And since you're in a position of needing a little levity, there's this.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

Well you need to go get a volt meter, 30 year old car and no volt meter I don't know how you do it lol. Timing light is next. I'm not saying to do this, but I pull started mine when it would not start. Of course that motor sat up for 10 years. He'll a vacuum leak will cause a hard start, ask me how I know.