This cant be good...
This cant be good...
This is my oil cooler on the 84 SE. I had to unbolt one side of the airdam and bend it out of the way. This pick sucks because my buddies car was really close to the front of mine so i had to jam the camera in there to get the pic.
How high is my risk of overheating or maybe springing a leak?
-oil pressure has been just fine so far...
Better pics tomorrow if needed.
How high is my risk of overheating or maybe springing a leak?
-oil pressure has been just fine so far...
Better pics tomorrow if needed.
The oilcooler can take quite a bit of abuse in that respect.Sharp impacts and overtightening the line fittings are usually what makes them fail.It may not look pretty,but Im willing to bet itll hold out just fine like that.You might do more harm trying to straighten it out,and with SE oilcoolers in short supply the best thing is probably to let it be.
Good thats a releif.
(Bumping my own thread) Anyone know how to make a makeshift puller for changing tierods and an idler arm? Sorry bout asking stupid questions out of place.
(Bumping my own thread) Anyone know how to make a makeshift puller for changing tierods and an idler arm? Sorry bout asking stupid questions out of place.
my jack slipped off the front cross member and bent up my FMOC like that. It also bent the radiator and cracked it, but the oil cooler was fine.
As for the puller, just spend the $15 and get the right tool, it'll save you time and aggravation.
As for the puller, just spend the $15 and get the right tool, it'll save you time and aggravation.
Just loosen the castlenut a few turns,then use a good sized hammer to shock it loose.
You want to hit the cast iron "loop" that the tapered rodend slips into. A couple good hits will shock the taper shaft loose everytime.....DO NOT remove the castlenut and strike the threads out of the cast iron loop.Ive used this method for years and years and have never failed.......I dont even know how to spell "Picklefork".
You want to hit the cast iron "loop" that the tapered rodend slips into. A couple good hits will shock the taper shaft loose everytime.....DO NOT remove the castlenut and strike the threads out of the cast iron loop.Ive used this method for years and years and have never failed.......I dont even know how to spell "Picklefork".
A ball joint/tie rod separator makes the job easier and they don't cost very much. Otherwise take Steve's advise and do not hit on the threaded end sticking up or you'll muck up the threads and not be able to put it back together.
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