64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Well, Stormy is done now, other than a few odds and ends. One thing I did was install a nice new Momo steering wheel. I love the way it looks and feels, but it's smaller than stock and I can't see my gauges. So I figured it might help to re-install the cruise control so I'd only have to look around the wheel to get the speed set, then could cruise. I built a new bracket for the throttle cable that would accommodate the cruise control cable as well, but can't get it to work. It's engaged and stayed engaged once, it engaged and immediately disengaged a few times, but most of the time it never engages. I've tried swapping out the vacuum unit under the hood and the control unit in the driver's side storage bin with the ones from the parts car but they didn't work either. I've checked to make sure the "Set" switch applies ground to the appropriate pin on the connector at the control unit, and I've made sure power is getting to the control unit when the key is on and the master cruise control switch is on.

Any ideas? The only idea I have right now is to check the brake and clutch switches to see if they are flaky.

This is on my '85 GS project car. I have the vacuum line connected with a tee fitting into the same line that my pvc valve is connected o.

Thanks,
Rich

nobodymv

iTrader: (3)

If you have swapped out the actuator to no avail, AND ensured vacuums are fine, MY 1st thing would be to clean the contacts at the switch for they build up crud over the years.

djs2571

look in the storage compartment on the drivers side, there's a 30 some pin connector that has wiring for the cruise. I know mine started acting up and a few of these wires were all green. It is an easy place to start, see if it's all corroded.

takhay

Have you checked the vacuum line itself to make sure it's not leaking? From what it sounds like, this sounds like a vacuum issue, but i can't be sure. The clutch and brake sensors would have been my second guess.

LongDuck

Don't mean to hi-jack the thread, but my CC will kick in, but immediately goes to full-throttle acceleration (as if it thinks the car is decelarating).

Would this be a vacuum leak on one of the solenoids or the vacuum canister, itself? Any help appreciated - would love to have my CC working again!

nobodymv

iTrader: (3)

I asked about a year ago RE: this exact issue. Here is what I researched as well as the solution to the problem in MY car:

1. Check the CC computer which is under the driver's storage bin. Open the bin lid and remove the screws around the rim. Remove the storage bin and you will see a silver box fastened to the front wall of the bin frame. It is not the box flat on the bottom, that is an amplifier for the stereo. The cc computer often gets wet and corrosion shorts the traces on the circuit board .

I DID check the actuator inner cable for play and to see if it was frayed....MINE was not

I also checked the resistance at the plug coming off the actuator solenoid, located on the firewall at the right fender. I will describe the best I can. With the lead to the actuator unplugged, and looking at it with the flat side down, the pins are :

A C
B D

With a lead remaining constant on A, I checked resistance between the other terminals:

A - B = 35.2 OHMS
A - C = 52.5 OHMS
A - D = 25.5 OHMS

I understand the resistance is suppose to be between 25 - 35 OHMS. I understood Pin C went to the combination switch. Once I swapped out the switch, the cruise worked normally.

Good luck and let us know.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I got my cruise working! Actually, there were 2 problems. First I found that the vacuum hoses were slightly too large and weren't making a good tight connection. Once I remedied that the cruise started working. But would only work for awhile...anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes...then would start cutting out, and finally quit altogether. It wouldn't work again until the next day.

I finally decided it had to be the speed sensor on the speedometer, so I swapped out the gauge cluster and sure enough, I had cruise. I wanted to keep my original cluster so I took the speed sensor off the working speedometer and put it on mine, and now I have cruise control anytime I want it!

Rich

LongDuck

What does the speed sensor look like on the speedometer? Very curious, as I've not gotten back into troubleshooting mine again.

Thanks for the tips and insight,

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Actually, I took pictures...I'll try to get them posted up this weekend. But it's pretty simple...2 screws hold it onto the back of the speedometer. It's just a microswitch...must be a magnet that spins around to make it switch.

Rich

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

Rich, would love to see pics of the finished GS project!!

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I posted some in this thread a while back:

https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/i-finally-decided-color-729620/page6/

And there are a bunch more here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/rdfrahm/Stormy20091018#

I'll try to get some decent shots of the interior and under the hood.

Rich

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I think I'm going to have to change the diagnosis on the cruise control problem. I think it was actually the connector on the back of the gauge cluster not plugged in solidly. Now my "Add coolant" light is on and the washer fluid light comes on when I brake. Neither were on before. I swapped in the other cluster (the one that now has the speed sensor that I thought was bad) and so far it's worked flawlessly on the two test drives I've taken.

I'll still post up the pictures of the speed sensor, but at this point I don't think it was the problem.

Rich

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Here are the pictures of the speed sensor.

Rich