Yo... before i start anything, i will make it clear taht i did use the search function and i coudlnt' find anything. With that being said, yesterday i was going down my friend's driveway and i heard a sickening scraping sound. i backed up and i had run over a rock. The engine bay bottom shield was all fucked, but i didn't think anything else was wrong. So i was driving home and i heard a clunking from the bottom of my car and i looked under it to find a long thin pipe dangling from the bottom of my car. I pulled it out (it was connected only by a hose from teh engine) and drove home. After some investigation, it is a long tube that connects to my exhaust manifold to my very last catalytic converter. The part that broke was the very end of it that was on teh catalytic converter. I tried welding it back on, but it is too rusted and won't hold a weld. So my question is... is this tube important?
Can it be plugged?
Would it be easier to get a header and presilencer if it turns out it would be a lot of money to fix if it is important?
Thx for all ur help and any suggestions are completely welcomed.

Zachstylez

 

bump... please help me guys

 

you need that tube hooked up to your cat if you want the cat to work right and /or if you need to pass emissions. You might ruin the cat if you drive for a long time without that air hose attached. I would take all of it off and run a header / silencer setup...like a street port racing beat exhaust system

 

The tube goes from your air pump to the catalytic converters.

If the tube isn't hooked up properly, oxygen isn't pumped into the cats to help finish the combustion process. This will lead to your cats clogging up, and your car being unable to pass e-tests.

If you don't have emisisons tests in your state, yeah just trash the cats and replace with a header and presilencer. You'll love the power increase the header and presilencer give you, and you'll lose the hassle of the cats.

If you *have* smog tests and can't get the tube to hold back on, go to a junkyard and get a cat off another Rx7. Unfortunately aftermarket cats are known not to last long at all. The extreme heat of the exhaust from a rotary engine eats right through 'em in no time. Replace with stock, but only if you *have* to... or get an aftermarket one and only have it installed for the e-test day.

Jon

 

FD Racer and Vipernicus:
You guys fucken rule. Thx so much for your help.
Also, if i get the RB header and Pre-Silencer, should i remove the Air Pump?
If so, how would i do that?
Thanks so much for your help again guys!

Zachstylez

 

you have an -se as in your sig then that tube also opens the 5th and 6th ports.

so if you remove the cats you need to rig up the valves to stay open or something

i just pulled mine off and discovered this out, there is a smaller nipple on the tube that connects to the rail that opens the ports so come up with something for that too

just tryin to help.

 

O man... i didn't realize. Right now i am just patching up the pipe with some hi-temp rubber, but i am definetely going to get a header within a month or so. PLEASE let me know what you find about the 5th and 6th ports sensor and how to keep those valves to stay open!

Zachstylez

 

that tube provides the back pressure to open the 5th and 6th ports. When you buy the RB exhaust for the GSL-SE it comes with the tube to acutate the AUX ports. If I remember right it takes about 2psi to open them.

 

RB offers a presilencer that has the feedback tube you need for the port-actuation. Sorry, I didn't realize you have an -SE!

Yeah, remove the airpump. It's easy to take out... except when you do like me and snap the head off one of the bolts.. that makes it easy to take out, but I need to put mine *back* on! and that's damn near impossible now!

Jon

 

Lol! Yeah... kinda like christmas wrapping. So let me get this straight...
1. Buy RB header to replace the first 2 cats
2. Get Pre-Silencer to replace last cat providing the solution to my port problem and at the same time removing the annoying rattling metal exhaust sound
3. Remove the air pump (by means of just standard taking out bolts one by one and pulling it out?)
4. Install everything
5. Have a bad *** sounding 7 with more power and torque

Correct?
By the way... you guys are great and thanks for all your help... i woudlnt' be able to do this without you guys (well... in this month anyway)

Zachstylez