camden dyno pull
10-06-10, 08:39 PM
#52
The Big Ugly!
Nice numbers man, the car looks good. The scoop adds to the car. There's a few roots type blowers on 13b's making power in the 340 to 360 range using GM 4-71's not the Camden. One is a RX4 if I remember right. What boost are you running? If I ever find a job I can get mine finished to see how the water to air worked out.
10-06-10, 10:34 PM
#54
Nice numbers man, the car looks good. The scoop adds to the car. There's a few roots type blowers on 13b's making power in the 340 to 360 range using GM 4-71's not the Camden. One is a RX4 if I remember right. What boost are you running? If I ever find a job I can get mine finished to see how the water to air worked out.
10-06-10, 11:52 PM
#55
The Big Ugly!
Yeah like the top one, I think the bottom pics are a Camden with a cog belt & pulley set up. I actually was looking into trying something similar, just to help prevent belt slippage. The RX4 I remember was an orange coupe & a blue R100. I'm glad your project is moving along nicely.
10-09-10, 01:44 PM
#56
I removed a 7" Camden from a friend's REPU. The rotors are damaged. One is missing aluminum while the other had some aluminum deposited on it. The inside of the intake manifold and the port runners in the engine are coated with a fine gray aluminum powder.
This is the second time this SC has had this type of failure. It has always had a -8 pulley (nothing wrong with that). Always had good oil pressure and volume. It also always tended to slip under any kind of load. We're going to see about getting a warranty replacement or something. These shouldn't fail like this.
I can take pics if you're interested.
This is the second time this SC has had this type of failure. It has always had a -8 pulley (nothing wrong with that). Always had good oil pressure and volume. It also always tended to slip under any kind of load. We're going to see about getting a warranty replacement or something. These shouldn't fail like this.
I can take pics if you're interested.
10-10-10, 09:34 AM
#60
This is similar to the right type of clamp to use for the drive gears.
The system works in cast iron and steel hubs, anywhere the traditional taper bushing system is used - V Belt pulleys, timing pulleys, couplings, sprockets, sheaves, etc. Impervious to reversing loads, not susceptible to vibrating loose
The system works in cast iron and steel hubs, anywhere the traditional taper bushing system is used - V Belt pulleys, timing pulleys, couplings, sprockets, sheaves, etc. Impervious to reversing loads, not susceptible to vibrating loose
10-10-10, 07:51 PM
#63
So those are the special clamps installed? Interesting. Looks like they'd be a good idea because your gears are slant cut. It seems Atkins began changing these to straight cut in '01 after they bought the company.
I won't remove the end caps as this is not my Camden to mess with. We live close to Atkins so we'll let them deal with it. I'll see about snapping a pic of the damaged rotors, at least. I'll post it later this evening.
I won't remove the end caps as this is not my Camden to mess with. We live close to Atkins so we'll let them deal with it. I'll see about snapping a pic of the damaged rotors, at least. I'll post it later this evening.
10-10-10, 07:56 PM
#64
I have the same clamps installed on my straight cut gears on the 7"....Those are on my 5". Let me know what Atkins has to say please, I have an extra straight cut gear set machined for the clamps. And if only one rotor is toast I may have a good rotor too...
10-11-10, 04:01 PM
#70
Jeff20b, ouch! Just saw your pics, way worse then the contact mine made. Definite shrapnel injection. My buddy passed a carb stud "through" his. I asked where his carb stud went as the hood was the only thing holding the air cleaner down. He had no idea however the rotors had perfect indentations including threads of the stud, motor never even missed a beat. I can only bet it got pressed into one rotor and lost a bit of the stud at a time. A miracle!
Bet if you pull the cover off to look you'll see a clamp on the right gear and a simple roll pin through the other like mine had. Out of warranty!! The roll pin broke! It was a cheap solution to using two clamps which Andy quickly corrected, however there a a few running around like this.
Bet if you pull the cover off to look you'll see a clamp on the right gear and a simple roll pin through the other like mine had. Out of warranty!! The roll pin broke! It was a cheap solution to using two clamps which Andy quickly corrected, however there a a few running around like this.
10-12-10, 02:18 AM
#73
I have an interesting question concerning supercharger and the E-shafts thrust bearings. In the "Street Rotary" Book, there's a page concerning supercharger on rotary's and the last paragraph of that say:
"Belt-Driven superchargers can also stress and distort the front shaft extension of the eccentric shaft, especially at high engine speeds on older rotary engines. The later model rotary engine (i.e. 1992 and later) utulize larger diameter thrust bearings that can resist the bending loads imparted by the supercharger more effectively than earlier engines.
Has anyone seen any issues with this? Anything to help it if it does Occur? Would lightening everything off of it (i.e. making aluminum pulleys) take some of that load off? Or is this mostly a concerning with running gilmer driver belts? Lastly I plan on putting a spring loaded tensioner on mine would going too high in spring tension make this matter worse?