Camber Thread.
05-10-10, 07:48 PM
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Camber Thread.
Alright, I've been searching around to find different opinions on adjustable lower control arms vs camber plates. My car is lower to the point that my front suspesion's camber is altered. Now I need some way to adjust it. Right now I'm leaning to pick up RB's adjustable lower control arm http://www.racingbeat.com/FRmazda1.htm since I need to replace my control arm anyways. Has anybody here used these. What are there pro's & cons versus camber plates? I just want some opinions before I pull the trigger on these.
05-10-10, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Racingbeat website
RX-7 Adjustable Front Lower Control Arms add a new dimension of adjustability to your car. In order to get the most from your 1979-85 RX-7's chassis, you need camber adjustability. Racers know that even with moderate size radial tires, it is possible to get improved front cornering power by increasing the camber to four or five degrees. While tire wear at this setting is high, the camber can be changed quite easily after initial setup with this kit, adjusting from race to street setting easily. This kit also allows you to correct an error in your chassis, or to pre-set incremental negative camber for better handling all the time (we recommend .5 degrees negative camber maximum for continuous use).
These arms can be shortened up to .5-inch from stock (approximately 1.3 degrees more positive camber than stock) or lengthened up to 1.625-inches from stock (approximately 4.4 degrees more negative camber than stock). The original rubber inner joint is retained to isolate road shocks and noise.
When front wheel negative camber is increased with this kit, there is a possibility that the front tire may contact the fender under some combination of bump and turn. This is especially true if wider-than stock wheels and tires are fitted. It is the user's responsibility to determine that there is adequate clearance for his application.
These arms can be shortened up to .5-inch from stock (approximately 1.3 degrees more positive camber than stock) or lengthened up to 1.625-inches from stock (approximately 4.4 degrees more negative camber than stock). The original rubber inner joint is retained to isolate road shocks and noise.
When front wheel negative camber is increased with this kit, there is a possibility that the front tire may contact the fender under some combination of bump and turn. This is especially true if wider-than stock wheels and tires are fitted. It is the user's responsibility to determine that there is adequate clearance for his application.
05-10-10, 08:25 PM
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^
I've already replace the balljoints. I have them tac wielded on but the lower control arms are "warped" so that even though, they are welded in they just don't sit right. So I'm going to replace the control arms regardless.
I've already replace the balljoints. I have them tac wielded on but the lower control arms are "warped" so that even though, they are welded in they just don't sit right. So I'm going to replace the control arms regardless.
05-11-10, 05:19 AM
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I have the LCAs. They are a pain to adjust. In order to get to the adjustment bolts, you usually have to break apart the lower ball joint and spindle connection. Once you make an adjustment, your toe needs to be readjusted. Some report that the adjustment may slip if you are not careful. If you can go with camber plates, you might have less problems.
They are capable of more than -2+ deg of camber.
Not sure of the problems with them and steering geometry once you get to high camber angles. I'm running -1 1/2 deg.
RXDad
They are capable of more than -2+ deg of camber.
Not sure of the problems with them and steering geometry once you get to high camber angles. I'm running -1 1/2 deg.
RXDad
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05-11-10, 08:55 AM
#8
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I decided to go with the camber plates, and I don't regret the decision. The main reasons I did not go with the control arms is because:
a. You have to get under the car (or remove a wheel) to adjust them.
b. the adjustment points are under the car, where they will collect the most dirt and debris, most likely making adjustments that much more difficult.
c. Changing the length of the control arm will have a much more drastic effect on toe settings, so each time you make a change your alignement will be off and have to be reset.
With the camber plates, adjustments can be made in under a minute. I usually crank mine to max camber before a race, then set it back close to stock for the drive home. If there is any effect on the toe settings, it is not noticeable.
Also, the Respeed camber plates are set up to add increased caster, which is a good thing. Adjustable control arms cannot do this.
The only thing that might be a problem for you is that if you are using stock type strut inserts, then the shaft (where it goes through the bearing on the camber plate) will have to be turned down to reduce the diameter. I did this with my original installation, and its not a big deal if you own a dremel. Or, you can drop them off at a machine shop and have it done for 20 bucks or so (it only takes a minute to do this work). The other option (if you can afford it, this is a great upgrade) is to get the "race" version of the Illumina strut inserts from Respeed. These are adjustable, so you can go from race track stiff to cadillac comfort with a simple twist of the adjustment ****, which is located at the top of the strut so its easy to get at and only takes a second once you pop the hood.
Best of luck with your project, feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Otherwise, you can contact Billy here by PM (Bwaits_) and he will be happy to advise you.
.
a. You have to get under the car (or remove a wheel) to adjust them.
b. the adjustment points are under the car, where they will collect the most dirt and debris, most likely making adjustments that much more difficult.
c. Changing the length of the control arm will have a much more drastic effect on toe settings, so each time you make a change your alignement will be off and have to be reset.
With the camber plates, adjustments can be made in under a minute. I usually crank mine to max camber before a race, then set it back close to stock for the drive home. If there is any effect on the toe settings, it is not noticeable.
Also, the Respeed camber plates are set up to add increased caster, which is a good thing. Adjustable control arms cannot do this.
The only thing that might be a problem for you is that if you are using stock type strut inserts, then the shaft (where it goes through the bearing on the camber plate) will have to be turned down to reduce the diameter. I did this with my original installation, and its not a big deal if you own a dremel. Or, you can drop them off at a machine shop and have it done for 20 bucks or so (it only takes a minute to do this work). The other option (if you can afford it, this is a great upgrade) is to get the "race" version of the Illumina strut inserts from Respeed. These are adjustable, so you can go from race track stiff to cadillac comfort with a simple twist of the adjustment ****, which is located at the top of the strut so its easy to get at and only takes a second once you pop the hood.
Best of luck with your project, feel free to let me know if you have any questions. Otherwise, you can contact Billy here by PM (Bwaits_) and he will be happy to advise you.
.
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