Sivart_R1

iTrader: (2)

Have been using both David Lane's "Solving GSL-SE Idle Problems" and the FSM to try to figure out what the hell is going on with the SE. tested both the Vent Solenoid Valve and the Vaccuum Solenoid Valve, both work properly (air flows when it should, doesn't when shouldn't) but now that I've put them back on the car, I've been trying to adjust the TPS. Instead of a nice solid lighting on the test bulbs, I get one flashing fast, other off through almost the full range of adjustment. when I back the tps off (countercockwise on the adj. screw) almost all the way out, the Vaccuum Solenoid valve starts clicking, and usually the 1 bulb on the TPS will light solid between clicks.

At this point, I'm at a bit of a loss. have been reading and re-reading the FSM, but not finding anything that sounds like what I'm seeing.

One other question, while I'm at it. Lane's article talks about cleaning the solenoid valves, but when I had them off the car, I couldn't see a practical way to get them open to try cleaning them...is this something that should ever need to be done, and if so, how!?

Thanks in advance, wish me luck. All this started when I tried to get the car past WA state emissions, and blew a 1900+ HC at idle....just a bit off from the limit of 160 ppm.

Sivart_R1

MarkPerez

I would say make sure you've got good connections in the check connector, also the tps may be history.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

stupid question but you are setting the tps with the engine off key on? also set it and open and close the throttle a few times, they do like to stick.

cleaning the solenoids is easy, shoot some brake/carb cleaner in the vacuum ports.

1900ppm; you need to check the acv and air pump, if those are ok you prolly need a cat

LongDuck

Agreed on the previous poster's comment that your TPS may need to be replaced. Remember that the TPS is nothing more than a digital 'tape' that gives resistance readings to the ECU to tell it where you have your foot (into the accelerator). When the computer can't get a 'clean' reading from the TPS, it's going to try to adjust idle speed, etc. - potentially resulting in some strange idle conditions and V/V behavior.

On the 1900+, you really need to be sure that the ACV is clean and working, and that your vent line to the Main Monolithic Converter (#3) is working correctly. If the cat is clogged, you won't be able to pass smog testing, and on top of that, you'll get really bad performance and fuel mileage. HTH,

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

First thing i need to know is what type of idle problem are you having? Is it too high, is it vasalating up and down, etc? And if it is varying up and down, does it stop when you put the clutch in? Also on your wonderful 1900 hc problem. Have the cat checked for inlet and outlet temps to make sure it is working and the acv is pumping air when it should be. Also take the air exhasut check valve hose off and make sure it is not allowing air to come back into the manifold. if it does you can do anything you want and the hc's will never go down. If all these things are fine,
Find someone in your area that can take the top lid off the afm and adjust it while it's hooked up to the analyzer. Last question, what did you do to it before you took it into the shop for smog? rx7doctor

RotaryRevn

do you have a link to david lanes site?

Brianhsval

Ok, I only know this: I have set the TPS on 2 SE's. With the same result on both. ( One of them is mine.) With the key off turn the screw counter clockwise. You will hear a click! Turn just a hair more and wola! Check it with a light or, in my case 2 ohm meters. You should have only 1 meter showing power.
Granted, if there should be NO click then both cars may have a bad TPS. However I do find it strange that BOTH are set to spec, AND they are both running just fine. Coincidental? Maybe.

LongDuck IS the GURU on the SE as far as I am concerned so it just may be that it is coincidence and both ARE bad, and we are both lucky that the cars are still running ok.

Just my observation.

Sivart_R1

iTrader: (2)

http://www.nellump.net/peri/epi/firs...gslseIdle.html - David Lane's article.

A little more detailed info now that I have some time at work to write it up.

Initial problem is / was that idle would cycle somewhat (~500 - ~900 prm) when warmed up, and occasionally die at a stoplight near the end of the warmup or when fully warmed up (50+ miles freeway driving warmed up). This pointed me to the BAC system (all checked out fine) as well as TPS issues. I've checked for intake leaks, and don't seem to have any.

ACV is next on the list, will check it out as best I can, after that I'll probably have to bite the bullet and take it to a shop...at the very least I can spend the money and get a waiver. Hopefully I'll have a TII drivetrain in by the next time I'm fighting emissions issues.

For reference, the car passed all emissions at cruise speed (2500 rpm), the HC is only high at idle. I can also smell that the car is running rich.

Thanks again.
Travis

Edit: forgot to mention my testing of the TPS. While I had the Throttle Body off for cleaning, i hooked up the multimeter, was able to get the right Ohm readings through the meter. FSM shows correct readings (IIRC since I don't ahve it at work with me) to be about 1k at idle (could adjust down to ~400) and up to 5k at WOT, and that's about what I was showing. The TPS was reading about 2k at the point I took it all off the car, back where the car would idle, but not pass emissions.

jezek301

I had the same problem just a few weeks ago. I tried to pass emissions in VA, but it failed miserably. I had to buy a new cat, but then there were other issues. I had a vacuum leak that had to be fixed. Then the TPS and the other adjustments were made. Now after this it passed emissions with flying colors and runs like a champ!

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Vacuum leak is big possibility, check the air intake hose from tne t/body to the afm. It's common for them to loosen up where they join in the middle. Also test the
coolant temp sensor, if it has malfunctioned, it will usually tell the computer that the coolant reading is very cold and will dump fuel. And again check the air exhaust
check valve as i stated. I went thru this with my se and installed new cats, went
thru everything. Then when checking the deacceleration system, i found that the
hot air was coming back into the manifold. Replaced the check valve and it passed.
rx7doctor

Brianhsval

Catalytic converter stopped up? Fuel adj.?

Feds

Yeah, if it's rich at idle, try adjusting the idle mixture. I can definitely make changes to the idle smell with mine.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Sorry guys, dont touch the mixture screw. Without a gas anyalyzer who just make things worse. All the basics have to be gone thru. 1). vacuums leaks found and corrected. 2). All base adjustments set correctly, ie. tps setting. Deacceleration system which also icludes tps checked and corrected as needed. 3). coolant temp sensor checked and replaced if defective. 4). make sure all grounds and electrical
connections are clean and tight. 5). main cat checked for proper operation.
rx7doctor Last thing i forgot to add, check the flap door on the afm and make sure it is not sticking, adefective afm will cause the dying at stop signs. This was the cause of mine, i had purchased a reman from a parts house and still had problems. Went thru every test in the book from pin test at computer to every sensor for this problem. Finally borrowed a known good afm and put it on, the dying problem and idle problem were both gone. Now it is normal for the afm to get
out of calibration all by it's self, usually due to bad contacts. let us know what happens. rx7doctor

Brianhsval

Your are right. Not SUPPOSE to asj. the mixture, BUT, these are 20+ year old cars. Alot of them have already been tinkered with. It took me a bit to adj. mine properly, but someone had already screwed it up and got it out of adj. The previous owner always took it to Firestone to have it serviced. What does firestone know about a 7? Yep thats right.....nothing.

Granted, if it has the rubber stuff in it leave it alone, if not, then it is a safe guess someone has already got it out of whack.

Saxrasta

I don't know how to solve your problems, but I can tell you this:
I've owned an "85 GSL-SE for almost 9 years now. I've put 120k miles on it and it already had 102k when I got it! I never got a "tune up" and never had any real problems. I always use 92 octane or higher gasoline, never use additives. I change oil every 5k miles and use Mobil 1 synthetic. I also switch between Mazda oil filters and Fram Doubleguard (or equivalent like PureOne). My idle has always been low, but never caused problems like that. On occasion the engine will rev itself when I'm stopped at a light or something, but a good strong take-off and shifting once you pass 5k rpm will usually get tyhings back to normal. Only 2 different times did I have the situation with the white smoke churning out upon cold start for 5-10 minutes. I just let it run until the smoke stopped. (My uncle said his '86 did that fairly regularly.) Good Luck.