Buying tips for an 83?
03-14-11, 09:11 AM
#1
Oil Leak
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Buying tips for an 83?
http://www.autotrader.com/dealers/dd...d&cardist=6375
This is the car I am very interested in buying. What are some things I should look for? What can I use to negotiate a lower price? (I'd LOVE to walk away with this car for $2500.) Are there any major red flags I should investigate before buying? How much does a first gen cost to run and maintain?
This car will be used as a daily driver, probably until it dies. I'm sick of my 95 Geo Prizm and wanted to have a cheap, sporty little car to replace it for a year or two. I drive 40 miles (highway) round trip to and from work daily, will an RX7 this old be up to the challenge?
This is the car I am very interested in buying. What are some things I should look for? What can I use to negotiate a lower price? (I'd LOVE to walk away with this car for $2500.) Are there any major red flags I should investigate before buying? How much does a first gen cost to run and maintain?
This car will be used as a daily driver, probably until it dies. I'm sick of my 95 Geo Prizm and wanted to have a cheap, sporty little car to replace it for a year or two. I drive 40 miles (highway) round trip to and from work daily, will an RX7 this old be up to the challenge?
03-14-11, 09:40 AM
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Oil Leak
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What do I need to go about doing a compression check? How easy is it to do? The place is a little family run business, I don't think they have a full blown shop.
03-14-11, 09:55 AM
#4
Also check the lip under the rubber hatch seal. Unless someone has glued it, you should be able to pull the lower section of the seal up and inspect the metal lip for rust. The area where the sunroof hinges slide into the body is another potential rust trap.
Seems like a reasonable price for a dealer if there is no rust and they have proof that the engine was rebuilt by a reputable builder 35,000 miles ago.
Seems like a reasonable price for a dealer if there is no rust and they have proof that the engine was rebuilt by a reputable builder 35,000 miles ago.
03-14-11, 10:06 AM
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Oil Leak
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The pictures do not do it justice, it looks BEAUTIFUL in person! I will be asking to see proof of the rebuild as well. What can I use to negotiate a lower price though? If I can get him down to $2200-2500 I'll be able to pay the insurance in a 6 month sum as opposed to monthly.
03-14-11, 10:26 AM
#7
Rust you might find would be first and if they don't have proof of the rebuild and won't spend the $100+ that Mazda will want to do a real compression test you should be able to talk them down. You can remove the valve from a regular compression tester and get a good idea of the compression if you know how. If you want to negotiate I would make them get the expensive one from Mazda.
FWIW A rebuilt 12A from a reputable shop will cost at least $2000 installed. $3000 or more with new housings.
FWIW A rebuilt 12A from a reputable shop will cost at least $2000 installed. $3000 or more with new housings.
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03-14-11, 11:16 AM
#8
Car looks very nice!!!
IMO at $2500 the dealer is still getting the better part of the deal (143k is a lot of miles in MN). But, really if the compression is good and you're not finding rust, and it runs nice and drive straight....nobody will laugh at you if you paid $3k for a sharp little GSL (was that a glass sunroof? BONUS).
If you want to get the price down complain about the rust in the bins....I guarantee a MN car with 143k will have rust in the bins. No paperwork on a rebuild = no guarantee of a rebuild. If you make them get the compression test, it could backfire (pun intended) on you.....if the compression is good and they know it you lose that bargaining chip.
Finally, be reasonable with the guy. But be ready to walk away (you can always walk back the next day or week). Offer him a low but reasonable offer...see what he comes back with....just remember you're playing in HIS backyard and you WANT the car.....he's a pro and negotiates prices every day....you're emotional....to him it's just business.
Good Luck
IMO at $2500 the dealer is still getting the better part of the deal (143k is a lot of miles in MN). But, really if the compression is good and you're not finding rust, and it runs nice and drive straight....nobody will laugh at you if you paid $3k for a sharp little GSL (was that a glass sunroof? BONUS).
If you want to get the price down complain about the rust in the bins....I guarantee a MN car with 143k will have rust in the bins. No paperwork on a rebuild = no guarantee of a rebuild. If you make them get the compression test, it could backfire (pun intended) on you.....if the compression is good and they know it you lose that bargaining chip.
Finally, be reasonable with the guy. But be ready to walk away (you can always walk back the next day or week). Offer him a low but reasonable offer...see what he comes back with....just remember you're playing in HIS backyard and you WANT the car.....he's a pro and negotiates prices every day....you're emotional....to him it's just business.
Good Luck
03-14-11, 11:22 AM
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Oil Leak
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Car looks very nice!!!
IMO at $2500 the dealer is still getting the better part of the deal (143k is a lot of miles in MN). But, really if the compression is good and you're not finding rust, and it runs nice and drive straight....nobody will laugh at you if you paid $3k for a sharp little GSL (was that a glass sunroof? BONUS).
If you want to get the price down complain about the rust in the bins....I guarantee a MN car with 143k will have rust in the bins. No paperwork on a rebuild = no guarantee of a rebuild. If you make them get the compression test, it could backfire (pun intended) on you.....if the compression is good and they know it you lose that bargaining chip.
Finally, be reasonable with the guy. But be ready to walk away (you can always walk back the next day or week). Offer him a low but reasonable offer...see what he comes back with....just remember you're playing in HIS backyard and you WANT the car.....he's a pro and negotiates prices every day....you're emotional....to him it's just business.
Good Luck
IMO at $2500 the dealer is still getting the better part of the deal (143k is a lot of miles in MN). But, really if the compression is good and you're not finding rust, and it runs nice and drive straight....nobody will laugh at you if you paid $3k for a sharp little GSL (was that a glass sunroof? BONUS).
If you want to get the price down complain about the rust in the bins....I guarantee a MN car with 143k will have rust in the bins. No paperwork on a rebuild = no guarantee of a rebuild. If you make them get the compression test, it could backfire (pun intended) on you.....if the compression is good and they know it you lose that bargaining chip.
Finally, be reasonable with the guy. But be ready to walk away (you can always walk back the next day or week). Offer him a low but reasonable offer...see what he comes back with....just remember you're playing in HIS backyard and you WANT the car.....he's a pro and negotiates prices every day....you're emotional....to him it's just business.
Good Luck
03-14-11, 11:59 AM
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if it actually is a CA car it won't have any rust. you do need to look for accident damage though.
as far as the mechanicals, you wanna make sure the engine is newer like they claim. (a mazda reman post 1997 will have a blue tag on the front cover, pre 97 it'll have a date, and ro stamp in the rotor housing).
look for oil leaks, coolant leaks etc etc.
these are really great they are just about the least expensive car to run made by man. ive had a couple where i bought the car, did the minor repairs it needed, drove it for 20-40k miles, and then sold for $1200 and MADE MONEY.
they can get expensive if you get ****, or get the go fast bug
as far as the mechanicals, you wanna make sure the engine is newer like they claim. (a mazda reman post 1997 will have a blue tag on the front cover, pre 97 it'll have a date, and ro stamp in the rotor housing).
look for oil leaks, coolant leaks etc etc.
these are really great they are just about the least expensive car to run made by man. ive had a couple where i bought the car, did the minor repairs it needed, drove it for 20-40k miles, and then sold for $1200 and MADE MONEY.
they can get expensive if you get ****, or get the go fast bug
03-14-11, 01:12 PM
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if its a mazda reman engine they siliconed a blue 2"x3" tag on the front cover, if you find the distributor, and follow that down, you should be in the ballpark. there isn't a set location.
prior to late 1997/98 they actually put a stamp in the rotor housing, so it'll have an RO number and a date.
if its not a mazda reman, then you are on your own. look for painted housings. the engine is made up of 5 housings (like a big mac) and from the factory these were all unpainted. very common for rebuilders to paint them, even mazda.
the water pump and its housing were painted gloss black. oil pan should also be painted gloss black
prior to late 1997/98 they actually put a stamp in the rotor housing, so it'll have an RO number and a date.
if its not a mazda reman, then you are on your own. look for painted housings. the engine is made up of 5 housings (like a big mac) and from the factory these were all unpainted. very common for rebuilders to paint them, even mazda.
the water pump and its housing were painted gloss black. oil pan should also be painted gloss black
03-14-11, 01:31 PM
#13
Gamah
I went and looked at this one
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...232335986.html
It was as nice as it looks in the add. Might be an option for you as well. Try and low ball him as it has been sitting there all winter.
I went and looked at this one
http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hn...232335986.html
It was as nice as it looks in the add. Might be an option for you as well. Try and low ball him as it has been sitting there all winter.
03-20-11, 01:25 PM
#15
Oil Leak
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I did not buy this one, but see here:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/finally-946636/
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/finally-946636/
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