Slopokdave

Owner is 3rd owner and says it was rebuilt at 80k; has 120k now. Is it possible to run a compression test with a normal compression gauge? First rotary.... I understand when a car is "not running on all cylinders", just want to make sure all rotors are good.

Car is VERY clean btw. Immaculate almost. So I'm pretty good on it...

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Dave-
Nope - requires gauge specific to rotaries. May be worth dropping $100 at a Dealer to get this done right, considering the cost of a rebuild.
Few other things to watch:
-hard starts on a cold engine (sellers may get around this by "pre-warming" the engine - that is: run it - prior to your arrival.) With a full choke a cold rotary should pretty well light up instantly, long cranks followed by a rough-idle start could suggest water-jacket leak in to combustion chambers overnight, indicating failure. These engines can run fine, ONCE you get them going, but the clock is ticking...
-oil in the rad coolant. Again a sign the barrier btw the cooling system & the combustion has begun to fail.
-white smoke at start (again, these tend to be COLD starts) - indicating coolant/moisture in combustion chambers burning off at the start. liquid collecting at the tailpipe might be coolant, which is a sweet smell...
Best of Luck - great cars as any incredibly biased Forum member will attest! Lots of stories here of long-lived engines, so I hope this doesn't put you off.
Welcome-
Stu Aull
80GS

Slopokdave

Crank was not long, but was not quick. Once it cranked it idled fine. Car was completely cold. No smoke. The car has sat for weeks w/o battery hooked up, because it was shipped down to Florida.

I'll have to look at an inspection. Thanks for the info.