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a bunch of turbo II swap questions...

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Old 12-17-02, 08:36 PM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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a bunch of turbo II swap questions...

I searched for ALL these things and came up with varied results so help me out.

The car is a 82 S

Mounting the engine:
its a 91 jspec. I know I need a gsl-se oil pan, and either a se or 12a cover plate. but does it matter, is one better than the other. I plan on premixing if that makes a difference.
Since this is 12a to 13b do I need the engine crossmember from racingbeat.
http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11832


I plan on installing a O2 sensor so I can datalog with the haltech. I know they need to run about 800 degrees so where should I hook it up. I was thinking at the end of the downpipe.

Knock sensors. I dont beleive the haltech has a option for this. I understand that knock and detonation is much worse for rotarys. What would you recommend. I have heard of ignition retard units.

i know Im forgetting something but ill think of it later.
Old 12-17-02, 09:15 PM
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I know I need a gsl-se oil pan, and either a se or 12a cover plate. but does it matter, is one better than the other. I plan on premixing if that makes a difference.
Since this is 12a to 13b do I need the engine crossmember from racingbeat.
If your premixing, it doesn't matter which front cover (13B OMP flows more, and has four lines like the TII's OMP and unlike the 12A) You have to machine the oil return from the turbo either way. The engine 'crossmember' that racingbeat sells simplifies things, but it is also possible to notch the stock mounts.

I plan on installing a O2 sensor so I can datalog with the haltech. I know they need to run about 800 degrees so where should I hook it up. I was thinking at the end of the downpipe.

Knock sensors. I dont beleive the haltech has a option for this. I understand that knock and detonation is much worse for rotarys. What would you recommend. I have heard of ignition retard units.
the O2 sensor is going to be inacurate no matter where you put it, unless its a true wideband. So go a head and stick it wherever is easiest (before a cat for sure, if you're using one)

If your going haltech, and you tune it well, I've been told that a knock sensor is not needed, but that is a question that I'm looking more into myself.
Old 12-17-02, 09:29 PM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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What do I have to notch.

the engine mount holes.



As for tuning the haltech well. I will be tuning it with a 02 (wideband or 4 wire).

I am going to mankato state next year for auto engineering and I will have full access to two floor dynos, flow benchs, and what not.

I can do anything.

in fact, there is a kid down there designing and building his own car.
From the the frame to the body its all his design.
Old 12-18-02, 07:04 AM
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Originally posted by 82streetracer
What do I have to notch.

the engine mount holes.



As for tuning the haltech well. I will be tuning it with a 02 (wideband or 4 wire).

I am going to mankato state next year for auto engineering and I will have full access to two floor dynos, flow benchs, and what not.

I can do anything.

in fact, there is a kid down there designing and building his own car.
From the the frame to the body its all his design.
That's sweet as hell! Too bad you'll have so much homework as a frosh that you won't have time to look at your car, let alone work on it.
Where is Mankato State?
Old 12-18-02, 08:18 AM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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Minnesota,

I was told that there is much less work compared to strait mechanical engineering.

Im really looking forward to it.
Old 12-18-02, 01:13 PM
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yeah ... you would notch the hole (driver's side) on the bracket plate itself, but since your car is an '82, i don't think you have to do that.

my 13B went into my '83 with no trouble (no notching or anything else) ... i think only the people with manual tranny, 12A '84-'85 cars have this problem. i can confirm the problem on the '84, because i need to notch the bracket since my current car's driver's side (it's a little stressed - but i'll do it whenever i change the clutch ) i had hard time getting it in when i installed it last year, and then i found about the difference a few months ago. so it all clicked, then.

anyway, i'm doing my homework on oxygen sensors now, and i've read that you should mount it 6-8 inches from the rear rotor's exhaust port. i had some questions which i posted in the ECU section, so you can go check it out if you'd like ... or if you want me to link it to this thread, i can. i found the answers that i received to be quite informative and helpful.

Last edited by diabolical1; 12-18-02 at 01:15 PM.
Old 12-18-02, 01:17 PM
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oh ... and ... good luck with school!
Old 12-18-02, 03:32 PM
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8/1 Building/Drive Ratio

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thanks
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