Bridgeport and webber - Worth the cost?
#1
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Bridgeport and webber - Worth the cost?
Well i was thinkin about doing a bridge port, and webber from rotaryshack, i allready got my gsl-se rearend installed, i wanna put a turbo II tranny on if possible.
If I did this setup, about what HP would I be running at the wheels? I've saved around 3K$ to spend to get my car quick, I was thinkin about a turbo II swap, but that would kill me in labor from my mech, and a camden sc is just too damn expensive.
Any reccomendations?
If I did this setup, about what HP would I be running at the wheels? I've saved around 3K$ to spend to get my car quick, I was thinkin about a turbo II swap, but that would kill me in labor from my mech, and a camden sc is just too damn expensive.
Any reccomendations?
#2
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well my small bridgeport 12a is making 155rwhp. Thats with a fairly flowing exhaust (stil a bit restrictive), and a 48ida webber.
It may not be heaps of power, but it sure is fun, and just the sound of the idle is enough to make me wanna keep it forever
If you know how to build the motor it shouldn't cost you too much, depending on how far you want to go. I had brand new seals/housings, 2nd hand end plates which i had machined smooth. I got all that for $1100 AUD which was pretty good. I built it myself, put it in myelf and got it tuned professionally.
Also for better acceleration go a 4.44:1 diff. Its better than the standard but easier to cruise and driv normally compared to the 4.8's or 5.1's. They can be found pretty cheap second hand.
It all depends how far you want to go. I say spend $3k on the engine, run it in with basic tune.. by the time its run in you can afford a good tune, and probably be half way to the diff.
good luck and ;et us know how u go. If you want any more help pm me
-James
It may not be heaps of power, but it sure is fun, and just the sound of the idle is enough to make me wanna keep it forever
If you know how to build the motor it shouldn't cost you too much, depending on how far you want to go. I had brand new seals/housings, 2nd hand end plates which i had machined smooth. I got all that for $1100 AUD which was pretty good. I built it myself, put it in myelf and got it tuned professionally.
Also for better acceleration go a 4.44:1 diff. Its better than the standard but easier to cruise and driv normally compared to the 4.8's or 5.1's. They can be found pretty cheap second hand.
It all depends how far you want to go. I say spend $3k on the engine, run it in with basic tune.. by the time its run in you can afford a good tune, and probably be half way to the diff.
good luck and ;et us know how u go. If you want any more help pm me
-James
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only 155 with a bridge port and thoise goodies? my friends 1st gen was around 205 hp, not at the wheels though, he had teh $900 kit from rotary shack and a bridge port.
#5
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Alot of people on here really suggest that you go peripheral port instead unless your race class doesnt allow it. Given the choice between bridge and peripheral, id take peripheral in a heartbeat
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yeah its only a small bridge, but i reckon i could squeeze a few more hp out with some small changes. Never know.. i might pull it apart to give it a bigger port , or maybe go a forced induction. i havent decided yet... Panel and paint is on the list now and im currently putting on a widebody kit. Not fun with one hand as i cut my finger with an angle grinder trying to get all the bog off the back of the car It sucks not being able to drive or work on your car.. and being stuck at home for a month
Well i'll just sit here and plan my next mods
-James
Oh and Jared... just let me know and i can help. Its pretty easy tho, im sure youll get it all sorted no worries
Well i'll just sit here and plan my next mods
-James
Oh and Jared... just let me know and i can help. Its pretty easy tho, im sure youll get it all sorted no worries
#7
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Originally Posted by twigg
only 155 with a bridge port and thoise goodies? my friends 1st gen was around 205 hp, not at the wheels though, he had teh $900 kit from rotary shack and a bridge port.
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#8
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Alot of people on here really suggest that you go peripheral port instead unless your race class doesnt allow it. Given the choice between bridge and peripheral, id take peripheral in a heartbeat
if you plan on buying new rotor housings then you can justify the steep price of the peripheral port housings, and then you have to fill in your side and intermediates. but if you plan to rebuild the core engine you currently have, cost wise it will save you a whole lot. Now i think 155rwhp is probably a bit low of a number if you don't cut into the rotor housings aka a small bridgeport. I think with the right amount of fuel and tuning you could be getting up to 180 with the small and well over 200 with a large bridge.
i was going to say that you would have to change the intake manifold for the peripheral port...but i realized you had already mentioned you are going with a weber intake...which is pretty simple with the peri-port really.
blah i was just rambling really....merry christmas everyone!
#12
Yeah, shutup kid.
Anywhere from $1000 to as much money as you want to spend. My $900 setup made about 220rwhp. Just do a seatch and you'll find shitloads of information on 12aTurbo setups. If you're looking for 200-270rwhp then get a TII turbo and a weber carb, or see if Robert will modify your nikki for you. If you want more power than that, get a T04b or some other turbo. Or get a TII turbo and send it off to get a bigger compressor on it. There are many different ways to do a turbo, just do a bit of research and decide which setup will five you the power you want.
#13
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i think i might just do that then, scott from mazsport.net is a great guy and right down the road from me is their shop, and they did my gsl se rear swap job, i get no incredible deals, but i know that the work being done is getting done properly and with years of experence.
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