Break In!!!
#1
trainwreck
Thread Starter
Break In!!!
Im getting a remanufactured 13b with a stage 2 street port. How many miles should i go before its broken in. And what can and cant i do before its broken in? Can i still redline it if i dont punch it but slowly bring it to redline to get rid of carbon, thats the type of stuff i need to know. Thanks
#2
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
i would wait until at least 1000 miles or 1500 miles before i redlined it. i would not go over 4000 rpm and i would change the oil every 500 miles using 10W40 and a new mazda oil filter. i would not punch it. drive it at varying speeds and try not to keep it at a constant speed, i.e. highway type driving. that is my reccomendation. also, keep up on oil and coolant levels.
#4
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i would use a thinner oil to cause alittle more friction for break in, like 10w30. at initial start up, run motor for about a half hour not accelerating, and check all fluid levels, and gauges to watch for overheating. dont go over 4000 rpm untill about 1500miles. actually, i would take it on a long trip
#6
trainwreck
Thread Starter
so basically only to school and work and back(20 mins there, 20 mins back) and vary between say 65 and 80 mph? on expressway and 45 and 60 on highway? for a long *** time?
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#8
trainwreck
Thread Starter
yea, i wanted to go to rotary revo so ill have to put on alot of miles in the short months ill have it. What is considered a long trip. Is an our long, or 3 hours or what?
#11
Blood, Sweat and Rotors
iTrader: (1)
With three exceptions I'd do exactly what he said below.
1. Use Castrol GT-X 10w30 oil for break-in period.
2. Change the oil after the first 100 miles
3. Use a high quality oil filter like a Mobil 1, Amsoil, or K&N
1. Use Castrol GT-X 10w30 oil for break-in period.
2. Change the oil after the first 100 miles
3. Use a high quality oil filter like a Mobil 1, Amsoil, or K&N
Originally posted by mazdaverx713b
i would wait until at least 1000 miles or 1500 miles before i redlined it. i would not go over 4000 rpm and i would change the oil every 500 miles using 10W40 and a new mazda oil filter. i would not punch it. drive it at varying speeds and try not to keep it at a constant speed, i.e. highway type driving. that is my reccomendation. also, keep up on oil and coolant levels.
i would wait until at least 1000 miles or 1500 miles before i redlined it. i would not go over 4000 rpm and i would change the oil every 500 miles using 10W40 and a new mazda oil filter. i would not punch it. drive it at varying speeds and try not to keep it at a constant speed, i.e. highway type driving. that is my reccomendation. also, keep up on oil and coolant levels.
#13
84SE-EGI helpy-helperton
When I replaced the V8 in my Infiniti Q45, it was stressed to me that the first 1,000 miles were the most important, since it will determine the life of the engine throughout the rest of it's useable period. That means, if you treat it carefully for the first 1,000 miles, you will have a strong engine that develops MORE power as tolerances free up reducing internal friction. This is the same for rotary engines, so I offer up the following advice;
1) don't drive it at a constant RPM or Load for more than 5 minutes - that means, don't drive it on the freeway AT ALL.
2) change oil frequently - some, above, suggest 10W30; more importantly, you just need to change the oil RELIGIOUSLY since there are likely to be metal particles and shavings that will need to exit the system or cause problems,
3) check frequently for leaks; oil, coolant, water, anything that could cause your engine to run dry. Your new engine installation required removing or replacing all hoses and tubing, so MAKE SURE you didn't forget something that cause oil starvation, fuel starvation, or coolant loss,
4) take it easy - you shouldn't be running it up to redline until AFTER the 1,000 mile break-in period, and I'd even add WELL after that period. Keep it below 4k RPM for the 1st 1,000 miles - the bearings are going to be tight since they're new, and running them up to high RPM will cause internal friction and heat - which will kill rotary reliability.
5) Use standard octane fuel (85-87 octane) - higher octane fuels are useless in a rotary due to the short compression cycle, and can in fact cause detonation which will damage rotor bearings and apex seals,
6) Avoid using MMO or other 'pre-mix' oil to the fuel as long as you're POSITIVE that your oil metering pump is working correctly - adding more oil will only prolong the necessary bedding of the metal surfaces, and could cause long-term impacts. You want the engine to gradually wear down the high spots during the break-in so that it can handle greater loads later on.
As a parting shot - take care of it. Treat it gingerly, baby it, don't thrash it - and it will last you many years. Save the redline starts for when you have 4-5k miles on it. YMMV,
1) don't drive it at a constant RPM or Load for more than 5 minutes - that means, don't drive it on the freeway AT ALL.
2) change oil frequently - some, above, suggest 10W30; more importantly, you just need to change the oil RELIGIOUSLY since there are likely to be metal particles and shavings that will need to exit the system or cause problems,
3) check frequently for leaks; oil, coolant, water, anything that could cause your engine to run dry. Your new engine installation required removing or replacing all hoses and tubing, so MAKE SURE you didn't forget something that cause oil starvation, fuel starvation, or coolant loss,
4) take it easy - you shouldn't be running it up to redline until AFTER the 1,000 mile break-in period, and I'd even add WELL after that period. Keep it below 4k RPM for the 1st 1,000 miles - the bearings are going to be tight since they're new, and running them up to high RPM will cause internal friction and heat - which will kill rotary reliability.
5) Use standard octane fuel (85-87 octane) - higher octane fuels are useless in a rotary due to the short compression cycle, and can in fact cause detonation which will damage rotor bearings and apex seals,
6) Avoid using MMO or other 'pre-mix' oil to the fuel as long as you're POSITIVE that your oil metering pump is working correctly - adding more oil will only prolong the necessary bedding of the metal surfaces, and could cause long-term impacts. You want the engine to gradually wear down the high spots during the break-in so that it can handle greater loads later on.
As a parting shot - take care of it. Treat it gingerly, baby it, don't thrash it - and it will last you many years. Save the redline starts for when you have 4-5k miles on it. YMMV,
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