Brake upgrades
04-19-02, 02:16 PM
#29
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
Originally posted by firstRX-7
call Brembo and get them to hook you up with some 13'' 4 calipers......I'm sure they could......but it will likely cost you
call Brembo and get them to hook you up with some 13'' 4 calipers......I'm sure they could......but it will likely cost you
04-19-02, 02:30 PM
#30
Old [Sch|F]ool
Exactly!
That's why I doubt I'd ever bother making a big rotor kit... people are hesitant to spend $70 for a better fuel pump and regulator (which even a dead stock car could benefit from!) so why would they spend several hundred dollars for front brakes + an additional several hundred bucks for new wheels to clear them + an additional several hundred bucks for new tires?
That's why I doubt I'd ever bother making a big rotor kit... people are hesitant to spend $70 for a better fuel pump and regulator (which even a dead stock car could benefit from!) so why would they spend several hundred dollars for front brakes + an additional several hundred bucks for new wheels to clear them + an additional several hundred bucks for new tires?
04-19-02, 03:07 PM
#31
peejay is right. i wouldn't fork up that kind of cash for my $850 car unless i was racing it. here is a brake rotor comparison from a racing/street sport parts supplier.
Cross-Drilled VS Gas Slotted
Who should use what?????
Every day drivers
Cross-Drilled
Cross-Drilled discs will allow for better heat dissapation thus reducing brake fade under heavy braking.
Light Competition:
Cross-Drilled or Gas-Slotted
Slotting will not cool the discs but will only de-glaze the pads. Without proper air ducts added to the car to dissipate the heat, the rotors will heat up thus giving the driver brake fade. Again, cross-drilled discs will allow for better cooling thus reducing brake fade under heavy braking.
Racing Use:
Slotted Rotors
Races are not concerned with the cooling of the discs as much as de-glazing the race pads. Proper ventilation ducts have been added to these vehicles allowing for the necessary cooling. Slotting will clean the brake pads to allow fresh material to bite the discs creating higher face temperatures. Sould the slot not cleanthe brake pad this would indicate that the slotting has be done for cosmetic effect only and will only promote pad noise should the discs not rotate in the proper direction.
and here is a url that goes more indepth.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/brakes/#
Cross-Drilled VS Gas Slotted
Who should use what?????
Every day drivers
Cross-Drilled
Cross-Drilled discs will allow for better heat dissapation thus reducing brake fade under heavy braking.
Light Competition:
Cross-Drilled or Gas-Slotted
Slotting will not cool the discs but will only de-glaze the pads. Without proper air ducts added to the car to dissipate the heat, the rotors will heat up thus giving the driver brake fade. Again, cross-drilled discs will allow for better cooling thus reducing brake fade under heavy braking.
Racing Use:
Slotted Rotors
Races are not concerned with the cooling of the discs as much as de-glazing the race pads. Proper ventilation ducts have been added to these vehicles allowing for the necessary cooling. Slotting will clean the brake pads to allow fresh material to bite the discs creating higher face temperatures. Sould the slot not cleanthe brake pad this would indicate that the slotting has be done for cosmetic effect only and will only promote pad noise should the discs not rotate in the proper direction.
and here is a url that goes more indepth.
http://www.tccoa.com/articles/brakes/#
04-19-02, 04:10 PM
#32
you all raise good points but I guess I have a different outlook on my rex than many of you do. Blue book/resale value mean nothing to me. I'm not concerned by the fact that my investment won't yeild a return. I don't plan to sell my car for a very long time. So spend the $$$ on brake upgrades is a worth while upgrade in my mind. I doubt that I'm the only one who feels this way. Thanks to those of who actually answered my question.
04-20-02, 10:24 AM
#33
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
Originally posted by peejay
Exactly!
That's why I doubt I'd ever bother making a big rotor kit... people are hesitant to spend $70 for a better fuel pump and regulator (which even a dead stock car could benefit from!) so why would they spend several hundred dollars for front brakes + an additional several hundred bucks for new wheels to clear them + an additional several hundred bucks for new tires?
Exactly!
That's why I doubt I'd ever bother making a big rotor kit... people are hesitant to spend $70 for a better fuel pump and regulator (which even a dead stock car could benefit from!) so why would they spend several hundred dollars for front brakes + an additional several hundred bucks for new wheels to clear them + an additional several hundred bucks for new tires?
04-20-02, 12:36 PM
#35
Old [Sch|F]ool
Brackets hell, the big problem would be trying to make everything fit using the stock 12A rotor... there's just not very much room to play with. GSL-SE rotors would be a better place to start (as for making the hub/adapter) because the hub surface is 15mm further outboard. If you have '84-85 strut housings, then you can use GSL-SE rotors.
My point is, people are hesitant to spend $70 for a fuel pump and regulator when it's known and proven that practically any 1st-gen will benefit from it. Look at all the people asking "Should I or shouldn't I?" The answer is YES BY ALL MEANS DO NOT EVEN ASK JUST DO IT YOU WILL LOVE IT! but people don't want to spend the $70.
Now who's going to spend many, many more dollars for a brake system upgrade that 99.99% of the people don't need? The remaining .01%, of course, give or take a few people who don't want it, and a few who don't need it but want something that looks neat even though they still have barely over stock HP and never go to the track. At any rate we're talking about a small handful. Is it worth the many long hours of work making something work (12A kit) when there is a better way of doing it (GSL-SE rotor kit) and few people will want it? And there's another problem... you'll need bigger wheels. MAYBE they'll fit in a 13" steel deep-bell wheel, but it'd be very close. Next size up is 15", still looking for 15" racing wheels that don't cost an arm and a leg and are available in 4x110. (Arm and a leg meaning over $60 apiece) It'd be cheaper to just convert to GSL-SE bolt pattern in the back and go with the GSL-SE -rotor big brake setup in the front.
The only way it'd make any sense would be if I did it for myself first and ate the R&D costs as just another personal project. I don't forsee myself needing or wanting bigger brakes in the near future. If I do anything it'll be a couple years down the road. I have bigger fish to fry right now.... I'm busy converting an '83 intake manifold to '79-80 spec with a few improvements, and it is not very fun
My point is, people are hesitant to spend $70 for a fuel pump and regulator when it's known and proven that practically any 1st-gen will benefit from it. Look at all the people asking "Should I or shouldn't I?" The answer is YES BY ALL MEANS DO NOT EVEN ASK JUST DO IT YOU WILL LOVE IT! but people don't want to spend the $70.
Now who's going to spend many, many more dollars for a brake system upgrade that 99.99% of the people don't need? The remaining .01%, of course, give or take a few people who don't want it, and a few who don't need it but want something that looks neat even though they still have barely over stock HP and never go to the track. At any rate we're talking about a small handful. Is it worth the many long hours of work making something work (12A kit) when there is a better way of doing it (GSL-SE rotor kit) and few people will want it? And there's another problem... you'll need bigger wheels. MAYBE they'll fit in a 13" steel deep-bell wheel, but it'd be very close. Next size up is 15", still looking for 15" racing wheels that don't cost an arm and a leg and are available in 4x110. (Arm and a leg meaning over $60 apiece) It'd be cheaper to just convert to GSL-SE bolt pattern in the back and go with the GSL-SE -rotor big brake setup in the front.
The only way it'd make any sense would be if I did it for myself first and ate the R&D costs as just another personal project. I don't forsee myself needing or wanting bigger brakes in the near future. If I do anything it'll be a couple years down the road. I have bigger fish to fry right now.... I'm busy converting an '83 intake manifold to '79-80 spec with a few improvements, and it is not very fun
04-20-02, 01:50 PM
#36
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
What about all the people that already have the 15" rims but foolish saucer cup rotors, foolish cross-drilled tea-cup rotors peaking out from behind them? Wilst thou forsake us? My forte' is car audio, graphics and basic auto mechanic abilities...clearly, this project is out of my league...
04-20-02, 02:50 PM
#41
Rotary Enthusiast
ok then, so there went the idea of somebody making the kit. I guess you guys are all talk. So at least if you know how to change a GSL-SE front to a TII front brakes, share it so I can start working on mine.
04-20-02, 03:34 PM
#42
Old [Sch|F]ool
swap in the FC front crossemember, struts, steering rack, everything. but with the FC springs it'll sit way high in the front, so i think it'll work OK if you get the RB lowering kit that raises the front strut towers an inch or two.
don't get me wrong, i plan on doing the swap someday, it's just that the someday is not very soon. after i do it then i wouldn't see a problem with making the swap components at a reasonable price. but for me to do the work now, i wouldn't do it unless i got something back for the effort, since i have other things to work on at the moment. like making good power from a stock 12A without aftermarket support, and later making a turbo 12A at which point I'd *need* the big brakes, at which point i'd make them, at which point i'd get all the nastywork sorted out, and have the jigs made up, and all that would have to be done to made additional "kits" would be the actual fabrication itself which is always the easy part. remember anytime you buy something you're not just paying for the part you're paying for the price of engineering the part, and before i'd sell ANYTHING i'd want to ensure that it's a good quality design - the last thing I'd want is to be taking people's money and giving them crap. there's enough crap product out there, what we need is quality stuff.
btw - don't ask me about modified carbs/intakes either, after i get that done - i'll just refer you to Yawpower
don't get me wrong, i plan on doing the swap someday, it's just that the someday is not very soon. after i do it then i wouldn't see a problem with making the swap components at a reasonable price. but for me to do the work now, i wouldn't do it unless i got something back for the effort, since i have other things to work on at the moment. like making good power from a stock 12A without aftermarket support, and later making a turbo 12A at which point I'd *need* the big brakes, at which point i'd make them, at which point i'd get all the nastywork sorted out, and have the jigs made up, and all that would have to be done to made additional "kits" would be the actual fabrication itself which is always the easy part. remember anytime you buy something you're not just paying for the part you're paying for the price of engineering the part, and before i'd sell ANYTHING i'd want to ensure that it's a good quality design - the last thing I'd want is to be taking people's money and giving them crap. there's enough crap product out there, what we need is quality stuff.
btw - don't ask me about modified carbs/intakes either, after i get that done - i'll just refer you to Yawpower
04-20-02, 04:02 PM
#43
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
Originally posted by peejay
btw - don't ask me about modified carbs/intakes either, after i get that done - i'll just refer you to Yawpower
btw - don't ask me about modified carbs/intakes either, after i get that done - i'll just refer you to Yawpower
04-20-02, 06:59 PM
#44
Administrator
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Nov 1998
Location: So. Arlington, TX!!!
Posts: 12,974
Likes: 0
Received 59 Likes
on
36 Posts
Originally posted by mar3
I'll post a pic of what they do to "dustless" pads Satyrday nite before I hit the 'Case with a buddy. Mind you, this is all regular street duty with the occasional drag down to 20 from 90 just to feel the belts across my chest...I'm gonna see how Hawks fare against them next....
I'll post a pic of what they do to "dustless" pads Satyrday nite before I hit the 'Case with a buddy. Mind you, this is all regular street duty with the occasional drag down to 20 from 90 just to feel the belts across my chest...I'm gonna see how Hawks fare against them next....
The back wheels in comparison and, no, I did not clean them up in anyway...
04-20-02, 07:18 PM
#45
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Da Barrio!!!(Irving, Texas)
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by mar3
I particularly like the little "zebra" stripes that are left by the dut blowing through the pattern in the Weds lace....
The back wheels in comparison and, no, I did not clean them up in anyway...
I particularly like the little "zebra" stripes that are left by the dut blowing through the pattern in the Weds lace....
The back wheels in comparison and, no, I did not clean them up in anyway...
But
you serious, you didnt clean the back ones?
04-20-02, 08:00 PM
#47
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Da Barrio!!!(Irving, Texas)
Posts: 984
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I heard, he even has the same type of rims I got now....... All I know, is they are enkie....... I would save for rims after I get the car going, but I cant get the ones on there off 
I hate it when you buy a car, and they have put lugnuts on, that you have to have a key to get off, and they kindly forget to tell you that!!! So, I need to find a key, but i cant find one, even though I have looked EVERYWHERE DAMNIT!!!! oops
And my tires where almost no wear on them when I got the car, except they are rotted......... And used to, when I would get to drive it, I would light the tires up, and burn them all day long........... But, I looked at my tires today, and on the drivers side, in the rear, it is bald only on the innner part...... Why is that? And how can I fix it, so I can have tires longer, and get better traction???
THANX, LATERZ, Andrew
All I know, is they are enkie....... I would save for rims after I get the car going, but I cant get the ones on there off I hate it when you buy a car, and they have put lugnuts on, that you have to have a key to get off, and they kindly forget to tell you that!!! So, I need to find a key, but i cant find one, even though I have looked EVERYWHERE DAMNIT!!!! oops
And my tires where almost no wear on them when I got the car, except they are rotted......... And used to, when I would get to drive it, I would light the tires up, and burn them all day long........... But, I looked at my tires today, and on the drivers side, in the rear, it is bald only on the innner part...... Why is that? And how can I fix it, so I can have tires longer, and get better traction???
THANX, LATERZ, Andrew
04-21-02, 01:55 AM
#48
EliteHardcoreCannuckSquad
Join Date: May 2001
Location: Acton, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 4,126
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
The only reason I'd personally want to upgrade the calipers is reliablity and ease of repair... you ever tried to re-build the nasty one piston calipers?
04-21-02, 01:43 PM
#49
Old [Sch|F]ool
Yes. Pile of cake, once I got past the FUD-factor (Fear, Uncertainty, and Doubt) and dug into it.
FWIW "dustless" pads aren't dustless - all brake pads produce dust, what do you think happens to the pad material as it wears away? The "dustless" ones just have dust in a color that doesn't show as easily.
I kinda like blackened, cruddy wheels - it's like a badge of honor.
FWIW "dustless" pads aren't dustless - all brake pads produce dust, what do you think happens to the pad material as it wears away? The "dustless" ones just have dust in a color that doesn't show as easily.
I kinda like blackened, cruddy wheels - it's like a badge of honor.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Devon300zx
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
15
09-16-15 06:57 AM
Tem120
3rd Generation Specific (1993-2002)
4
09-07-15 09:53 AM
Nosferatu
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
7
09-05-15 02:13 PM