Brake MC Hard line nut removal
#1
Brake MC Hard line nut removal
Ok, so I am trying to remove the Booster/MC from the firewall to make way for
painting behind it. I got under the dash and spent the hour in a horribly
conformed way to get the 4 nuts off the back of the booster, and the cotter
pin/rod that holds it to the brake pedal. Get to the front and begin taking the
lines off the PPV and the lower part of the brake booster. Problem, my 10mm
wrench (the perfect size) will NOT budge the nuts at all! I have tried PB Blaster,
Liquid wrench, acetone+ATF, everything. I have been going at it for almost a
week; Spraying it, let it sit a day, try to wrench it (begins to round the head),
spray it with something else and MORE of it, let it sit, etc.
Driving me crazy, I do not want to buy another MC because I round the nuts
holding the hard lines in. I am about to get my cut off disc and just slice the hard
lines since I might as well run new ones the way I like.
I will be removing the brake booster itself and converting to manual brakes like
Bobbo has. He has been a big help thus far, it's just these stupid brake nuts!
Also, what would the difference be if I ran a FC brake MC? They bolt to the
BB with 2 bolts left and right, and the FB has the bolts top and bottom, limiting
the placement of the MC on the firewall.
EDIT: I am a few steps away from using the torch, but I worry about the brake
fluid boiling or melting the reservoir.
painting behind it. I got under the dash and spent the hour in a horribly
conformed way to get the 4 nuts off the back of the booster, and the cotter
pin/rod that holds it to the brake pedal. Get to the front and begin taking the
lines off the PPV and the lower part of the brake booster. Problem, my 10mm
wrench (the perfect size) will NOT budge the nuts at all! I have tried PB Blaster,
Liquid wrench, acetone+ATF, everything. I have been going at it for almost a
week; Spraying it, let it sit a day, try to wrench it (begins to round the head),
spray it with something else and MORE of it, let it sit, etc.
Driving me crazy, I do not want to buy another MC because I round the nuts
holding the hard lines in. I am about to get my cut off disc and just slice the hard
lines since I might as well run new ones the way I like.
I will be removing the brake booster itself and converting to manual brakes like
Bobbo has. He has been a big help thus far, it's just these stupid brake nuts!
Also, what would the difference be if I ran a FC brake MC? They bolt to the
BB with 2 bolts left and right, and the FB has the bolts top and bottom, limiting
the placement of the MC on the firewall.
EDIT: I am a few steps away from using the torch, but I worry about the brake
fluid boiling or melting the reservoir.
#3
Hold on, I will get a picture of it. It has a notch in it if that helps? Haha.
Yeah, it is just a regular wrench, 10mm. Has a notch on one side, which
I assume is to rotate the wrench without lifting it. I'll be needing a line
wrench then? Just googled it, it seems to be a much better option. I got
the front top nut on the MC off, then realized it just went to the PPV,
which did nothing to help, so I put it back on. Guess I got lucky?
Double edit: RX8 is the new test car? What happened to the 3?
Yeah, it is just a regular wrench, 10mm. Has a notch on one side, which
I assume is to rotate the wrench without lifting it. I'll be needing a line
wrench then? Just googled it, it seems to be a much better option. I got
the front top nut on the MC off, then realized it just went to the PPV,
which did nothing to help, so I put it back on. Guess I got lucky?
Double edit: RX8 is the new test car? What happened to the 3?
#5
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Stu heat is your best option. Just put the blue torch flame on it for a bit and use
the "line" wrenches. Regular wrench will be a big fail. A last resort is to use the
heat and then grap it with a vise grips really tight and then tap it with a hammer.
Never fails for me even on the most rusted crap and I'm from up north.
the "line" wrenches. Regular wrench will be a big fail. A last resort is to use the
heat and then grap it with a vise grips really tight and then tap it with a hammer.
Never fails for me even on the most rusted crap and I'm from up north.
Trending Topics
#8
Old Fart Young at Heart
iTrader: (6)
The bolts on the FC master brake cylinder are clocked different than the FB. You will need to swap the master and booster. Since the FC booster is a larger diameter, the holes for both the brake and clutch on the firewall will need to be ovaled away from each other. Approximately 3/8" total.
If the line wrench doesn't work, get a pair of 5R vice grips.
If the line wrench doesn't work, get a pair of 5R vice grips.
#9
The bolts on the FC master brake cylinder are clocked different than the FB. You will need to swap the master and booster. Since the FC booster is a larger diameter, the holes for both the brake and clutch on the firewall will need to be ovaled away from each other. Approximately 3/8" total.
If the line wrench doesn't work, get a pair of 5R vice grips.
If the line wrench doesn't work, get a pair of 5R vice grips.
room on where to mount it on the firewall based on where on the pedal I want it to
mount to... If that makes sense.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
82streetracer
1st Generation Specific (1979-1985)
7
08-23-15 09:28 AM
Frisky Arab
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
13
08-18-15 05:30 PM