well, theres a road around here called snake rd. and its basically a little race track that everyone goes to make runs on. its a really nice road with no cops to sit and its kinda hilly and tight so no one would ever go walking on it. anyways, i was on my 4th run and in a straight away i hit ~80, well when it came time to slow down for a ~40mph turn, there was nothing pulled the e-brake and threw that bitch into 3rd. the e-brake didnt to much but the gear drop did. SCARED the **** out of me.

anyways, what can i do to prevent this? im sure my pads are glazed and in need of some shaving down. is this why people by crossdrilled and slotted rotors? are there any pads that will cure this? or do i need to go with better rotors? i have a gsl rear end with 4 wheel disks.

any input???

 

Yes, cross drilled and slotted rotors will help. The excess heat build up transfers thru the pads to the caliper piston causing the fluid to boil, introducing air into the brake system, that's why no matter how hard u push the pedal, the brakes just don't work. U may end up needing to bleed them.

 

Get better brake pads.. Hawks or Porterfields..even Axxis.

 

are those going to eat my rotors though?

and bleeding my system? why would i need to do that? because it boiled and now theres air in it?

 

Flush your brake system. Brake fluid is hydroscopic so it absorbs water. Over time it can even absorb it through the flex hoses and the plastic reservoir. Because water has a much lower boiling point than brake fluid, any amount in the system will cause the braking power to degrade accordingly. I suspect your system hasn't been flushed in some time. All the slots in the world can't help you if you don't have good brake fluid.

Toughguy

 

actually i flushed out my whole system about 2 months ago. ill probably bleed them tomorrow though, sounds like a good idea. thanks for the help guys.

 

I will typically blead my brakes after every track day.

I had the same problem with brake fade, until I switched over to Blackhawk HP plus, and no more brake fade, and holy **** do they bite!!!
About them eating up the rotors, I believe they are a little worse than OEM, but not that bad at all.
They do dust quite a bit more thoiugh.

 

hawks are very abrasive(sp?).... well the blues at least, so yes they might. if hawk makes ones for street then it should be fine but i wouldnt recomment hawk blues for street.

 

I dono, it takes a LOT to make pads fade.
If your fluid boiled then your pads weren't being used at all after that point, so just change the fuild out and you should be set.
I've done a lot to a $10 set of pads, granted the sucked but they don't overheat before fluid in all but heavy track situations....this is just my experiances though, and on a different type of car, tho that shouldn't matter.

Maybe throw on some brake ducts and remove your dust shield...

 

I was driving my hon-duh up and down a VERY steep road here called Rose Hill road, and it gets to be 14% grade for 2-3 kilometer long stretches in some places. I got to the bottom, after about the 3rd time down (shuttling for Mountain biking), and my font brakes were SMOKING.... probably not a good thing, but it could have had something to do with me doing 130km/h then having to slam the brakes on for some hard corners.... I'd hate to use this car for track use, it'd burn up...

 

ive had halk hp plus pads in mine for about 15k km's no signs of them eating the disks and you have to try very hard for a long time to get them to fade!

 

i attacked a backroad in my camry (insanely to me now) with a 225lb passenger and two fully loaded toolboxes. it took about 15-20 minutes of thrashing to over heat the brakes and i barely made the turn into the boonies junkyard, smoke and all. mind you this is in a loaded down 91 camry. so if you are have these types of problems then i would look at the system as you must have some crappy fluid or something is really blocking airflow to the rotors. or kick the fat kid out. 3 ways to combat this. 1st is brake fluid with a high boiling point, 2nd is airflow across the system to bleed off heat, 3rd is surface area and mass to dissipate and bleed off heat.

 

go and get a set of these and see if they'll still fade..

 

I'm surprised no one has mentioned Stainless Steel brake lines. They'll make a HUGE difference. Also, upgrade to a higher spec brake fluid. If you have DOT 3, got to DOT 4 (DO NOT use DOT 5) if you want the ultimate get Motul Synthetic 5.1. It has the highest boiling point of any brake fluid on the market. Lastly, cross-drilled rotors will make hardly any difference. Stay away from these, they're not good...