64mgb

iTrader: (1)

When I restore stuff I like to disassemble it as much as possible. This makes it easier to clean the item, and also makes it easier to paint it or plate it or whatever. I read in a thread from a couple of years ago that it's not recommended to take the brake booster apart without special tools or equipment. Is that true?

Thanks,
Rich

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

You're really stripping this thing down Rich! I don't know the answer to your question, but keep up the great work! I'm sure that this project will turn out great, judging by your previous ones.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Glazedham42, I sure hope it turns out nice. I never planned for it to go this far...I just have trouble leaving things that I see that need restoring. Check out these before and after pictures of the ECU.

Rich

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Rich, try it and then if it dont work just buy a complete new one. I bought a new one for my SA for under 100.

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Man, what paint is that? I love that color for the ECU. Also where was your ecu located?

85 FB

Rich,
Wow. That CPU is beautiful. What'd you do, shine it up with paint thinner? And, where in the world was that CPU kept for it to get that bad?

+1 on the booster. They shouldn't be that expensive. And, whatever you do, keep us posted!

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

It Krylon Nickel Shimmer. I used the same stuff to paint my radio surround. First I took the covers off the ECU and sandblasted them, as well as the frame it's mounted on. Then I shot them with a self-etching primer, and finally top-coated with the Krylon.

The ECU is under a panel at the front of the passenger's footwell. The panel that covers it was too badly rusted...the lower mounting tabs were completely rusted away. So I swiped the one out of my parts car and cleaned it up and painted it as well.

Just an FYI...I've seen a lot of people use the term ECU to refer to the computer...but in the factory wiring diagram ECU means Emmisions Control Unit, and the computer is called the CPU.

Rich

mikewoodkozar

CPU, lol who would have guessed it

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Wait, a 79sa with a ECU/CPU mounted where the FB's are? Strange because I have never seen a 79/80/81 with one in that location.
Chad

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

No, this is on my '85 GS project car...sorry for the confusion.

Rich

Fire85GSLSE

iTrader: (29)

Man, you have me thinking I was loosing my mind, or that someone has done a swap.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

I figured I'd put a period on this thread about the brake booster. What I ended up doing was removing the rubber boot from the side that the brake pedal attaches to, and the plunger from the side that engages the master cylinder. Then I used a stripping attachment chucked into my drill to completely remove the paint from the side that faces forward, and used a Scotchbrite to scuff up the back side. After masking off the opening in the front and the one in the rear I shot it with a self-etching primer, then top-coated with Krylon satin black. It came out looking really nice...I hope it holds up.

Rich

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Nice job Rich. Personally, I'm not a fan of Krylon or most rattle can paints. That's why I have paint guns and in particular a cheap 50 buck touch up gun to shoot epoxy and automotive paint. Lasts so much longer than the rattle cans and I hate redoing done work.

kenn_chan

Rich and Scott, the only two guys I now that are as annaly retenative when working on something as myself

Well at least I am sitting in good company

Rich good work on the resto parts, sand blasters are a lot of fun are they not?

Scott, waiting on photos...... if you forgot I will pm you my email addy later.

Cheers

Kenn

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I saw Rich's car at the Iowa meet this past June. Being **** pays off, it's immaculate.

Glazedham42

iTrader: (4)

Looks great Rich! NOW BE CAREFUL WITH THE BRAKE FLUID!

Jamie

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I know what you mean Scott. Sometimes I wish I'd get a gun and learn how to use it, but what a hassle always having to mix paints. And then there's the overspray (or do you use HVLP?) and the cleanup. Plus, the Krylon dries so fast you can start working with the piece in a few minutes. I use a Sherwin-Williams self-etching primer and I think that helps a lot. It isn't cheap...I think it's close to $10/can...but I've always had excellent luck with it.

Rich

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Kenn I don't know why I spend so much time on some of the really insignificant things. Right now I'm spending a couple of hours cleaning the rubber grommets that came out of the floorboards Truly insignificant, but I have a hard time putting greasy, grimy stuff on the car.

Rich

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Hey Rich - FWIW now, the booster DOES come apart - you probably saw the way the 2 halves are twist-interlocked? The FSM details disassembly I believe - there is a BIG *** Spring inside, which makes taking it apart probably a bit dangerous w/o the right tools. THEN you have the fun of trying to re-compress the spring to re-assemble too! -and thats with OUT scratching the paint all up...
;p
Had mine out when installing new (and now, apparently, defective!) brake MC - painted with POR in hopes of greater Br fluid resistance...

Nice job-
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Thanks Stu - Yea, I saw how the halves are put together, and the spring inside. Decided it wasn't work messing with. That's a great idea about using POR on the master cylinder. Did you take the reservoir off? If so, how? I've always damaged them when I try to pry them off.

Rich

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Rich, I have 3 different guns, one of which is a cheap 50 buck touch up gun for small parts. I've found in the long run that using automotive grade paint really pays off as some of the rattle can paints have begun failing within 12 months, then I have to start over with the removal, sandblasting, priming, painting and install. Not worth it imho.

You can buy a qt of primer and topcoat and paint a lot more parts than the rattle cans will cover for about the same price. I like to use an epoxy primer/sealer, but it has a tendency to permantly clog a spray gun if you don't clean it right away, sometimes between each refill. Overspray isn't much of an issue, about the same as the rattle cans until you use a full sized gun and start painting bodies.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

Cool...thanks Scott! I think I'll get me a small cheap gun and start tinkering with it.

Rich

680RWHP12A

awesome attention to detail here, 10++

i wouldnt reccomend for anybody to dis assemble the brake booster, if you mess up, you will wate alot of time doing the R&R twice..

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

Rich, fwiw, I also opt to powdercoat many of the smaller parts instead of paint. If it can take the heat and fit in the oven, powdercoat it. As a side note on spraying, if you use a clearcoat that contains isocyanate, which most of them do, a resperator is a must. It will cause brain damage.

7aull

iTrader: (2)

Rich:
I just masked off the cylinder, POR'd that AND the Booster (as 2 separate pieces)-
"should" be more Br Fluid resistant, but hope not to test the theory
Also POR'd the steering gearbox while all this was out too, so it all looks pretty Minty...
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska