Brainfarting around...
#1
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Brainfarting around...
The car - a mint condition 1983 GSL with a newer limited slip rear from an 84, all new bushings and a 12a that was rebuilt with about 55k on it (157k on the body). Zero bondo and 100% straight body-wise. Not certain if it was done up with new rotor housings or not when it was done, but either way, it runs perfect.
My options -
1 - leave it the hell alone and 100% stock
2 - keep the 12a, throw a racing beat exh on it, maybe ditch the rats nest and basically do a light mod to the car and switch to pre-mix
3 - sell the 12a as an excellent runner and grab a 13b to swap into the car to get a little more to play with or...
4 - pure sacrilege - lose the rotary and go with a 4.3 or SBC and be done with it totally. Hell, I can get everything I need from a donor car for the price of the 12a RB exhaust!!
My main hesitation regarding any mods is that the car is genuinely THAT nice. Runs/starts/drives 100%... but I kinda would like to make it 100% without worrying about some oddball emissions failure or the death of the 12a.
I'm kinda leaning towards a cross between #3 and #4 just due to the financial aspect of building a 13b... but everything is on the table here. As a side note, I REALLY like the way the rotary delivers the power!! Insanely smooth and deceptively fast!! A 13b would be my choice if $$$$'s weren't such a concern. Financially right now, #1 is where it stays due to being broke!
Chime in and let me know what the thoughts are!!!
My options -
1 - leave it the hell alone and 100% stock
2 - keep the 12a, throw a racing beat exh on it, maybe ditch the rats nest and basically do a light mod to the car and switch to pre-mix
3 - sell the 12a as an excellent runner and grab a 13b to swap into the car to get a little more to play with or...
4 - pure sacrilege - lose the rotary and go with a 4.3 or SBC and be done with it totally. Hell, I can get everything I need from a donor car for the price of the 12a RB exhaust!!
My main hesitation regarding any mods is that the car is genuinely THAT nice. Runs/starts/drives 100%... but I kinda would like to make it 100% without worrying about some oddball emissions failure or the death of the 12a.
I'm kinda leaning towards a cross between #3 and #4 just due to the financial aspect of building a 13b... but everything is on the table here. As a side note, I REALLY like the way the rotary delivers the power!! Insanely smooth and deceptively fast!! A 13b would be my choice if $$$$'s weren't such a concern. Financially right now, #1 is where it stays due to being broke!
Chime in and let me know what the thoughts are!!!
#2
love the braaaap
The decision is ultimately yours to make but my choice would probably be #3 with a twist. Stock S4 13bt with a free flowing exhaust and standard 2nd gen mods for a small power increase. 220hp at the flywheel is not hard to obtain out of that engine and it wont likely grenade your drivetrain like a V8 swap would. Keeping the engine close to stock will also net you excellent drivability with a smooth power delivery similar to stock 12a.
Im not totally against piston swaps but when it comes to reliability of the stock rear axle a v8 is not what you want to do. Much more than 250 ft lbs torque i think the rear axle will snap like a twig with grippy tires. The small bearing early 1st gen axle is even less than that.
Im not totally against piston swaps but when it comes to reliability of the stock rear axle a v8 is not what you want to do. Much more than 250 ft lbs torque i think the rear axle will snap like a twig with grippy tires. The small bearing early 1st gen axle is even less than that.
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,826
Received 2,592 Likes
on
1,841 Posts
#1, maybe i'd put headers on it
#7
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm looking at #2 as the most likely scenario for now, and that's only because the thing runs so well that I'm thinking (knocks on wood here) that it's easily a 100k mile motor. Atkins did the build and the previous owner was pretty good about changing the oil... all in all, it's a VERY strong car as it is.
Trending Topics
#8
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The decision is ultimately yours to make but my choice would probably be #3 with a twist. Stock S4 13bt with a free flowing exhaust and standard 2nd gen mods for a small power increase. 220hp at the flywheel is not hard to obtain out of that engine and it wont likely grenade your drivetrain like a V8 swap would. Keeping the engine close to stock will also net you excellent drivability with a smooth power delivery similar to stock 12a.
Im not totally against piston swaps but when it comes to reliability of the stock rear axle a v8 is not what you want to do. Much more than 250 ft lbs torque i think the rear axle will snap like a twig with grippy tires. The small bearing early 1st gen axle is even less than that.
Im not totally against piston swaps but when it comes to reliability of the stock rear axle a v8 is not what you want to do. Much more than 250 ft lbs torque i think the rear axle will snap like a twig with grippy tires. The small bearing early 1st gen axle is even less than that.
#9
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
I'd replace the beehive with a FMOC first.
Enjoy the stock everythng until it becomes a pain in the butt to maintain.
Then get the RB SP Full Exhaust setup. Then replace the nikki with a nice big Dell or Weber
DCOE. Do eletric fans and a better ignition setup and enjoy a 12a with 50% more
power without breaking the keg.
Save up for a new 13B engine for a few decades when the 12A finally blows.
Enjoy the stock everythng until it becomes a pain in the butt to maintain.
Then get the RB SP Full Exhaust setup. Then replace the nikki with a nice big Dell or Weber
DCOE. Do eletric fans and a better ignition setup and enjoy a 12a with 50% more
power without breaking the keg.
Save up for a new 13B engine for a few decades when the 12A finally blows.
#10
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've used the search feature on here many times to see if I could find a how-to for replacing that beehive. Can you possibly help me here with a link that has complete instructions? Right now, I don't have any access to a used 2nd gen oil cooler either. I kinda wanted to get that replaced as well as get some electric fans on it in the immediate future... link for fans too possibly?
#11
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also for anyone that might be able to shed some light on this idea, I have an intake mani from a 79 or 80 that doesn't have the shutter valve on it. Is it a better manifold than the 83 unit? Would it be a wise thing to replace it possibly? I also have the Nikki from that mani, but it's in pretty rough shape... now I'm up to 3 extra carbs...
#13
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
replacing the beehive is a good idea. I'm in the process of going to a FMOC in my 1985 GSL and here are my thoughts.
If you have the money ($500) you can go the route I did. I would not recommend going completely aftermarket unless it something you really want.
Here is a thread with my setup: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ooler-1011061/
* Rotary-Works 10 row -10an FMOC
* Steal braided hoses
* Custom fabbed mounting braket
* Earl's oil temperature regulator
* RE-Speed oil pedistal
* Oil temp and oil presure gauges
* Endlink bushing kit to isolate vibration
My suggestion would be to get an GSL-SE oil cooler or even a 2nd gen cooler and have a hydrolic shop make up some hoses with the factory fittings. You will also need either a non beehive oil pedistal or get the Re-Speed one.
If you have the money ($500) you can go the route I did. I would not recommend going completely aftermarket unless it something you really want.
Here is a thread with my setup: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...ooler-1011061/
* Rotary-Works 10 row -10an FMOC
* Steal braided hoses
* Custom fabbed mounting braket
* Earl's oil temperature regulator
* RE-Speed oil pedistal
* Oil temp and oil presure gauges
* Endlink bushing kit to isolate vibration
My suggestion would be to get an GSL-SE oil cooler or even a 2nd gen cooler and have a hydrolic shop make up some hoses with the factory fittings. You will also need either a non beehive oil pedistal or get the Re-Speed one.
#14
Have RX-7, will restore
iTrader: (91)
i would not touch a thing personally. unmolested 7's are getting harder and harder to find and when completely stock, they get decent mileage, are reliable, and are very enjoyable to drive. i find that more issues will arise in the future with modded cars.. not saying a recing beat exhaust and removing the emission equipment will necessarily harm anything, its that you may end up missing the bone stock classic.
#15
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i would not touch a thing personally. unmolested 7's are getting harder and harder to find and when completely stock, they get decent mileage, are reliable, and are very enjoyable to drive. i find that more issues will arise in the future with modded cars.. not saying a recing beat exhaust and removing the emission equipment will necessarily harm anything, its that you may end up missing the bone stock classic.
#16
love the braaaap
Im not saying the 4.3 is too torquey. The v8's generally are. The later 1st gen axles are stronger but can still be broken with about 250ft lbs. That seems to be about the limit if you want to run slightly sticky tires from what i have read.
#17
Lives on the Forum
iTrader: (5)
I would go with the bonez cat repalcement pipe. It's only $75, heavy duty, sounds great and a lot cheaper than a whole new exhaust.
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
#18
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
I would go with the bonez cat repalcement pipe. It's only $75, heavy duty, sounds great and a lot cheaper than a whole new exhaust.
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
#19
Doesn't suck
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Pensacola FL
Posts: 701
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't touch a damn thing till it broke.
Though I do PASSIONATELY hate the stock header (if you can even call it that) and would do a full exhaust with header, and maybe a FMOC because hives are just crap.
But with the shape it's in, you may consider plastic wrapping anything you do take off...
Though I do PASSIONATELY hate the stock header (if you can even call it that) and would do a full exhaust with header, and maybe a FMOC because hives are just crap.
But with the shape it's in, you may consider plastic wrapping anything you do take off...
#20
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would go with the bonez cat repalcement pipe. It's only $75, heavy duty, sounds great and a lot cheaper than a whole new exhaust.
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
Worked great on my low mileage 83.
Rotary Performance | SA Exhaust
Plus, the cash I get back from selling the convertor will offset it's cost. I love it when a plan comes together!!
Last edited by foghead; 09-16-12 at 11:43 AM.
#21
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't touch a damn thing till it broke.
Though I do PASSIONATELY hate the stock header (if you can even call it that) and would do a full exhaust with header, and maybe a FMOC because hives are just crap.
But with the shape it's in, you may consider plastic wrapping anything you do take off...
Though I do PASSIONATELY hate the stock header (if you can even call it that) and would do a full exhaust with header, and maybe a FMOC because hives are just crap.
But with the shape it's in, you may consider plastic wrapping anything you do take off...
#23
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Understood for certain. It'll disappear eventually, but for now though, it comes down to 80 or so for the delete pipe or 800 or so for the full system. Besides, preservation is the name of my game. The header will/would be nice, but worrying about extra hp from the 12a just isn't in the best interests of the motor, seeing as how parts have dried up pretty badly. It'd likely help hot gasses to escape faster than the iron blob but once again, just not in the budget at the moment.
#24
1st-Class Engine Janitor
iTrader: (15)
Beautiful restoration candidate; you can either restore it to original condition (mainly some replating and cleaning from what can be seen) and preserve it's value, or you can start modding it to your taste with the realization that every dollar you spend on non-stock mods will be reducing the value of the car by several dollars.
Just a sad fact; with very rare exception, nobody wants somebody else's mods. So figure out what you'll enjoy most before you start.
Just a sad fact; with very rare exception, nobody wants somebody else's mods. So figure out what you'll enjoy most before you start.
#25
Vapor locked
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Niagara Falls NY
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Beautiful restoration candidate; you can either restore it to original condition (mainly some replating and cleaning from what can be seen) and preserve it's value, or you can start modding it to your taste with the realization that every dollar you spend on non-stock mods will be reducing the value of the car by several dollars.
Just a sad fact; with very rare exception, nobody wants somebody else's mods. So figure out what you'll enjoy most before you start.
Just a sad fact; with very rare exception, nobody wants somebody else's mods. So figure out what you'll enjoy most before you start.
Those mods will likely be about it. All suspension bushings are new urethane, springs are all new, struts/shocks too. Nothing else is on the radar at this point in time. I'm going towards restored/preserved with tasteful and logical mods done.