Blowthrough help (burning oil)
08-10-14, 07:53 PM
#1
Blowthrough help (burning oil)
Maybe some of you blowthrough gurus can shed some light on this one...
I finally got my blowthrough 12a running today.
The issue I noticed pretty quickly as it warmed up was a lot of blue smoke blowing out the exhaust, as well as oil burning from around the front of the hot-side of the turbo. There's also a little oil seeping out between the backplate and the hot-side turbine housing, as you can see in the pics.
The setup is a stock-port 12a with a heavily modded Nikki and FC S5 turbo. Excuse the dirt and grime - it's a rallycross car:
A little info on my oil system: -4 AN feed from oil filter block to turbo with inlet restrictor, -10 AN drain to front cover. 2nd gen oil cooler. All the lines and the cooler got nice and warm so the system seems to be flowing, but my pressure sender is shot so I can't read pressure. The bypasses in the oil pan have been modified/shimmed to increase pressure.
So I'm not too sure what's going on here other than that oil is going where it's not supposed to, and it seems to be doing it via the turbo! Advice?
I finally got my blowthrough 12a running today.
The issue I noticed pretty quickly as it warmed up was a lot of blue smoke blowing out the exhaust, as well as oil burning from around the front of the hot-side of the turbo. There's also a little oil seeping out between the backplate and the hot-side turbine housing, as you can see in the pics.The setup is a stock-port 12a with a heavily modded Nikki and FC S5 turbo. Excuse the dirt and grime - it's a rallycross car:
A little info on my oil system: -4 AN feed from oil filter block to turbo with inlet restrictor, -10 AN drain to front cover. 2nd gen oil cooler. All the lines and the cooler got nice and warm so the system seems to be flowing, but my pressure sender is shot so I can't read pressure. The bypasses in the oil pan have been modified/shimmed to increase pressure.
So I'm not too sure what's going on here other than that oil is going where it's not supposed to, and it seems to be doing it via the turbo! Advice?
08-10-14, 09:00 PM
#3
1.6mm, seems like a pretty standard size.
I should also mention that I dumped about an ounce of oil into the feed before I cranked the engine for the first time since the turbo was dry.
08-11-14, 12:02 AM
#4
I like your setup!
Both my used S5 turbos did that on my blow through Nikki setup. The fix was to rebuild one of them. It stopped smoking. The other will be rebuilt when I can get another rebuild kit for it and some time.
The Gpop shop is the only place I've found that sells a kit that will work. I didn't use very many parts from the kit, but when I asked if they could separate out only the parts I needed, they said it would be more expensive.
Both my used S5 turbos did that on my blow through Nikki setup. The fix was to rebuild one of them. It stopped smoking. The other will be rebuilt when I can get another rebuild kit for it and some time.
The Gpop shop is the only place I've found that sells a kit that will work. I didn't use very many parts from the kit, but when I asked if they could separate out only the parts I needed, they said it would be more expensive.
08-11-14, 05:15 PM
#6
Thanks, I've still got a lot of work to do but at least I've got it running. The intercooler piping from the hat is less than ideal, so I'm going to try and make that more direct and less offensive to the eyes.
I was afraid of that, Jeff. But I hadn't tested this turbo on anything else so I knew it would be a possibility. Too bad, the kit is almost what I paid for the turbo.
Shawn, I'm running mobil1 Synth 15w50. How did it you bleed off the oil pressure? I guess I could run a return to the pan or something.
I might try dropping a BB into the restrictor inlet. I could have swore I read that somewhere years ago. If all else fails I'll bite the bullet and rebuild the thing.
I was afraid of that, Jeff. But I hadn't tested this turbo on anything else so I knew it would be a possibility. Too bad, the kit is almost what I paid for the turbo.
Shawn, I'm running mobil1 Synth 15w50. How did it you bleed off the oil pressure? I guess I could run a return to the pan or something.
I might try dropping a BB into the restrictor inlet. I could have swore I read that somewhere years ago. If all else fails I'll bite the bullet and rebuild the thing.
08-11-14, 11:09 PM
#7
The rebuild kit is all you need. Don't run your turbo dry by trying to restrict it down. There is already a factory restrictor down inside the CHRA hidden from view.
Don't run an oil return to the pan. It has to empty above the oil level, such as in the front cover like the factory location.
Don't run an oil return to the pan. It has to empty above the oil level, such as in the front cover like the factory location.
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08-11-14, 11:43 PM
#8
Well, my worry is that I'm running too much pressure to it, and I'll just blow the seals out again after I rebuild it. At least I know it's getting enough! I actually drilled the "factory" location in the front cover for my drain, so I'm good there. I'm also going to order an aftermarket OP gauge.
About the rebuild... I like to put things back better than I found them when it comes to rebuilding stuff. Are there any worthwhile mods I can do while I've got it apart? I've already ported the wastegate. I notice GPopShop sells a kit with an upgraded bearing and piston ring for 40 bucks more. Worth it?
About the rebuild... I like to put things back better than I found them when it comes to rebuilding stuff. Are there any worthwhile mods I can do while I've got it apart? I've already ported the wastegate. I notice GPopShop sells a kit with an upgraded bearing and piston ring for 40 bucks more. Worth it?
08-12-14, 12:00 AM
#9
Is the factory location low enough or down hill enough compared to your turbo location? I don't know how you spaced your turbo out away from your engine so that is why I ask.
So you increased oil pressure over stock? Probably not a good idea to go really far above stock. 85 psi is plenty. If psi = RPM, 85 psi = 8500 RPM.
What is happening inside your turbo is the journal bearings are somewhat worn allowing the shaft to move around more than it should and lets oil seep past the rear piston seal and it gets burned as smoke. You need to do something about it soon because the housing will coke up. It makes it way harder to remove the CHRA. You'll spend hours like I did.
After the turbo is rebuilt you probably won't need any kind of restrictor.
Why complain about the cost of a rebuild kit? By spending about the cost of a rebuild kit on your turbo in the first place, you came out ahead. It's a very cheap power adder compared with a once upon a time power adder known as the Camden supercharger.
So you increased oil pressure over stock? Probably not a good idea to go really far above stock. 85 psi is plenty. If psi = RPM, 85 psi = 8500 RPM.
What is happening inside your turbo is the journal bearings are somewhat worn allowing the shaft to move around more than it should and lets oil seep past the rear piston seal and it gets burned as smoke. You need to do something about it soon because the housing will coke up. It makes it way harder to remove the CHRA. You'll spend hours like I did.
After the turbo is rebuilt you probably won't need any kind of restrictor.
Why complain about the cost of a rebuild kit? By spending about the cost of a rebuild kit on your turbo in the first place, you came out ahead. It's a very cheap power adder compared with a once upon a time power adder known as the Camden supercharger.
08-12-14, 06:11 PM
#10
Is the factory location low enough or down hill enough compared to your turbo location? I don't know how you spaced your turbo out away from your engine so that is why I ask.
So you increased oil pressure over stock? Probably not a good idea to go really far above stock. 85 psi is plenty. If psi = RPM, 85 psi = 8500 RPM.
What is happening inside your turbo is the journal bearings are somewhat worn allowing the shaft to move around more than it should and lets oil seep past the rear piston seal and it gets burned as smoke. You need to do something about it soon because the housing will coke up. It makes it way harder to remove the CHRA. You'll spend hours like I did.
After the turbo is rebuilt you probably won't need any kind of restrictor.
Why complain about the cost of a rebuild kit? By spending about the cost of a rebuild kit on your turbo in the first place, you came out ahead. It's a very cheap power adder compared with a once upon a time power adder known as the Camden supercharger.
So you increased oil pressure over stock? Probably not a good idea to go really far above stock. 85 psi is plenty. If psi = RPM, 85 psi = 8500 RPM.
What is happening inside your turbo is the journal bearings are somewhat worn allowing the shaft to move around more than it should and lets oil seep past the rear piston seal and it gets burned as smoke. You need to do something about it soon because the housing will coke up. It makes it way harder to remove the CHRA. You'll spend hours like I did.
After the turbo is rebuilt you probably won't need any kind of restrictor.
Why complain about the cost of a rebuild kit? By spending about the cost of a rebuild kit on your turbo in the first place, you came out ahead. It's a very cheap power adder compared with a once upon a time power adder known as the Camden supercharger.
I added an FC oil cooler, a turbo, and a lot of high capacity lines, so I saw it fit to mod the regulators to up the pressure a bit.
I wouldn't call it a cheap power adder... I've got at least a couple grand in it, and that's with doing all the work myself. Maybe cheaper than a TII swap with an EMS. It's all the supporting mods and little stuff that get ya. The Camden never made much sense to me. A lot of volume but at low velocity, not what the rotary wants.
08-13-14, 11:00 PM
#12
Using the Nikki and stock manifold keeps the cost down quite a bit, although it cost me when it came to the exhaust manifold. The manifold I bought was apparently made for an aftermarket carb setup and didn't clear the Nikki. I had to have the manifold cut up and basically remade.
Is yours still running? How's it working out?
Is yours still running? How's it working out?
08-14-14, 12:27 AM
#13
Yeah, it still runs. I had an oil cooler failure so I had to swap a beehive in. I like it so much I might keep it in there until I can get a short style rad to put a more reliable 79-82 oil cooler under it. It seems the GSL-SE version is prone to cracking at the fittings.
As for how I did mine, I used a rare NO 13B hitachi intake manifold which already had channels and only needed to drill and tap the Nikki stud pattern. The so called altitude compensator which I usually use as a PCV valve, was removed and a small 3/16 nipple fitting installed, then Y adapted to the boost gauge and the BOV.
The reason I used one of these intake manifolds was a) for the 4 port 13B, and b) the ACV area could be trimmed down and allowed the S5 turbo to fit with only a 7/16" steel spacer and another gasket. I also have old school rotor housings with the thermal reactor ports so I blocked them off with a 16 gauge plate of steel and a gasket on either side. It's not ugly or anything, but it effectivly blocks the holes that the S5 manifold doesn't cover. It also lets me use stock rotor housing exhaust studs but I had to swap in some FD studs into the S5 manifold. I needed to space the turbo out a certain distance, and it's a lot easier to remove studs from the turbo manifold vs the rotor housings. I had to get a Moog idler arm too.
The Nikki was boost prepped. Sterling style accel pump mod, but 1 1/8" hole spacing for 81-85 carbs using a 79 style diaphram. Hogged out primaries to 24.7mm approx which suits a 74 ported 13B well. Secondaries are stock. 118 or .046" drilled primary jets. 90 primary air bleeds. Drilled 118 primary slow air bleeds for the idle circuit. Thick gasket between main body and cast iron base (throttle body).
This setup is pretty good but there is a common hiccup when the secondaries open. It's about a 1 second delay sometimes. Kind of annoying but I realize carbs use vacuum. What happens when you throw a lot of positive pressure at them? It takes a while for the secondaries to get going. I tried 150 jets (was kinda lean), tried 208 jets (this made the carb fall flat on its face), but the best was the stock 160 jets. I left the secondary venturis stock so no need to mess with jets or air bleeds, right? The flat spot is always there in 1st and 2nd but seemed to go away at higher speeds and higher gears. You may experience this.
Any ideas? I have one. You drill a hole in the top of the air horn above each float bowl, tap NPT threads and add a barbed nipple fitting. Connect them to the carb hat. This way the float bowl has direct access to incoming air pressure. Will it work? I don't know. I need a spare air horn to try this on.
As for how I did mine, I used a rare NO 13B hitachi intake manifold which already had channels and only needed to drill and tap the Nikki stud pattern. The so called altitude compensator which I usually use as a PCV valve, was removed and a small 3/16 nipple fitting installed, then Y adapted to the boost gauge and the BOV.
The reason I used one of these intake manifolds was a) for the 4 port 13B, and b) the ACV area could be trimmed down and allowed the S5 turbo to fit with only a 7/16" steel spacer and another gasket. I also have old school rotor housings with the thermal reactor ports so I blocked them off with a 16 gauge plate of steel and a gasket on either side. It's not ugly or anything, but it effectivly blocks the holes that the S5 manifold doesn't cover. It also lets me use stock rotor housing exhaust studs but I had to swap in some FD studs into the S5 manifold. I needed to space the turbo out a certain distance, and it's a lot easier to remove studs from the turbo manifold vs the rotor housings. I had to get a Moog idler arm too.
The Nikki was boost prepped. Sterling style accel pump mod, but 1 1/8" hole spacing for 81-85 carbs using a 79 style diaphram. Hogged out primaries to 24.7mm approx which suits a 74 ported 13B well. Secondaries are stock. 118 or .046" drilled primary jets. 90 primary air bleeds. Drilled 118 primary slow air bleeds for the idle circuit. Thick gasket between main body and cast iron base (throttle body).
This setup is pretty good but there is a common hiccup when the secondaries open. It's about a 1 second delay sometimes. Kind of annoying but I realize carbs use vacuum. What happens when you throw a lot of positive pressure at them? It takes a while for the secondaries to get going. I tried 150 jets (was kinda lean), tried 208 jets (this made the carb fall flat on its face), but the best was the stock 160 jets. I left the secondary venturis stock so no need to mess with jets or air bleeds, right? The flat spot is always there in 1st and 2nd but seemed to go away at higher speeds and higher gears. You may experience this.
Any ideas? I have one. You drill a hole in the top of the air horn above each float bowl, tap NPT threads and add a barbed nipple fitting. Connect them to the carb hat. This way the float bowl has direct access to incoming air pressure. Will it work? I don't know. I need a spare air horn to try this on.
08-14-14, 05:45 AM
#14
talking head
im thinking the pill in the oil line may work but i am wondering how you are venting the sump space and if you have the PCV hooked up still ?
( and yes the stock turbo has an internal pill to prevent excess pressure to the front seal.. but does not cut down that to the rear.. and these turbos where original designed around 50 psi ( t3/t4 CHRA )
so usually a pill around 1.6 mm is necessary in some situations where the pressure may now be well past the stock rotary 72 psi )
( and yes the stock turbo has an internal pill to prevent excess pressure to the front seal.. but does not cut down that to the rear.. and these turbos where original designed around 50 psi ( t3/t4 CHRA )
so usually a pill around 1.6 mm is necessary in some situations where the pressure may now be well past the stock rotary 72 psi )
Last edited by bumpstart; 08-14-14 at 05:48 AM.
08-14-14, 06:18 AM
#15
talking head
Are there any worthwhile mods I can do while I've got it apart
make sure it is a t3/t4 kit and for a carbon encapsulated front seal
( most kits supply dynamic seal much like the rear one )
do NOT get the HT-18 kit.. that is not the mazda HT-18s-2s , but a nissan version and it is not the same inside
I notice GPopShop sells a kit with an upgraded bearing and piston ring for 40 bucks more. Worth it?
in some retailers you can fiddle the kit up and down for these parts ( and carbon front seal )
be aware the mazda front seal needs a very thinwall press tool to push the new one back in
and the mazda/hitachi part is often far better quality than any china or even garret equiv
so keep yours as is and dont bother it if it looks good and currently seals fine
if you are using the 1.6 mm pill restrictor on the oil fitting
.. then you can pull the little brass restictor mazda/hitachi put in the front of the CHRA
you can double up on the spider washer under the front cover to resist the axial loading of larger compressor wheels
( of which U and V to4 b wheel can be made to fit in the stock front cover by professionals with a profile tool on the lathe )
if you wish to take it one better than that and match the front and rear flows much better
then the stage 2 to3 turbine wheel ( TA34 ) fits bang in the rear for a flow upgrade without any mods
a sweet but stock looking baby highflow is to combine the ta34 wheel and the U or V compressors in the stock cover
( or alternative purchase them with the correct to4b compressor cover and backing plate )
and PS.. with the s5 turbo.. and the stock divided exhaust mani.. you can flip it upsidedown and fit it to the engine
this moves the turbo forwards and up a bit,, and certainly clears the frame better on a gen1
( in oz we also have to clear the steering box,, and we also put the fat FC rubber engine mount under that side )
we then add spacer plates and extra gasket between the turbo and the manifold to space it away from the inlet manifold as required
( though on the turbo efi manifolds it only requires a kiss with a grinder to clear )
08-14-14, 11:32 PM
#16
Jeff, your setup sounds awesome. I'm impressed that the little Nikki can keep up with a boosted 13b. I've had so much good experience with my modded Nikki that I couldn't see using anything else for this build. I'm already running .105 primary fuel jets and .200 secondaries if I remember right. With the car N/A, the .105's and stock .160's gave me great numbers through the powerband. So I figured .200 would be a safe starting point with minimum boost. I've also modded the accel pump in every way, which eliminated any hesitation. Hopefully that'll won't change too much with a turbo. I know I'll have to drive this car much differently than my 13BT vert... I'll have to ease it into boost to make sure the fuel keeps up. No romping and stomping.
I'm partial to the FC oil cooler myself. I switched from the beehive back when the car was still N/A and it made a considerable difference in my temps, especially on the highway.
I have a couple spare Nikkis sitting around, maybe I'll give your idea a shot when I get that far.
Bumpstart, thanks for chiming in. I appreciate the advice. What you said about the rear seal not having a restrictor makes sense, since the front seal seems to be holding and the rear blew out.
PCV... that's the guy that runs to the oil filler neck right? I still have that hooked up factory-like. I already bought the standard HT-18 kit from GPop. It's listed for the RX-7 application, so I should be good. I don't have any special tools so I'll replace what I can and box up the rest for another day.
I'm partial to the FC oil cooler myself. I switched from the beehive back when the car was still N/A and it made a considerable difference in my temps, especially on the highway.
I have a couple spare Nikkis sitting around, maybe I'll give your idea a shot when I get that far.
Bumpstart, thanks for chiming in. I appreciate the advice. What you said about the rear seal not having a restrictor makes sense, since the front seal seems to be holding and the rear blew out.
PCV... that's the guy that runs to the oil filler neck right? I still have that hooked up factory-like. I already bought the standard HT-18 kit from GPop. It's listed for the RX-7 application, so I should be good. I don't have any special tools so I'll replace what I can and box up the rest for another day.
08-14-14, 11:56 PM
#17
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I tried a trick to see if my turbo was shot.(it was)
I took a deep 1/8 Rivet,took the nail out,filed the top of the cone on the oil flange and placed the rivet there and tightened the hose.
On my Old setup the turbo blew smoke.
The rivet showed me that the seals were shot as they restricted oil.(hardly any smoke)
NOT the best solution but it is helpful in finding out if the turbo is the culprit.
Since then I had the turbo rebuilt.I just had the rivet in,as I said to pinpoint what was going on.I found out and that was that.Turbo came off and got rebuilt.
I took a deep 1/8 Rivet,took the nail out,filed the top of the cone on the oil flange and placed the rivet there and tightened the hose.
On my Old setup the turbo blew smoke.
The rivet showed me that the seals were shot as they restricted oil.(hardly any smoke)
NOT the best solution but it is helpful in finding out if the turbo is the culprit.
Since then I had the turbo rebuilt.I just had the rivet in,as I said to pinpoint what was going on.I found out and that was that.Turbo came off and got rebuilt.
08-15-14, 02:25 AM
#18
talking head
you cant run the PVC under boost
.. it is not a true one way valve and will flow the other way and so you are pressurizing the sump space
this prevents both the rotors, and the turbo from gravity draining back to the sump and the oil finds a new path
namely across the oil control rings to the inlet vacuum side in the motor.. and into the exhaust in the turbo
.. it is not a true one way valve and will flow the other way and so you are pressurizing the sump space
this prevents both the rotors, and the turbo from gravity draining back to the sump and the oil finds a new path
namely across the oil control rings to the inlet vacuum side in the motor.. and into the exhaust in the turbo
08-15-14, 09:02 PM
#19
Interesting test. My rebuild kit came today so I might as well rebuild the thing anyway.
I'm surprised I haven't read anything about this before. Good to know. I'm glad I just idled the car for a bit rather than taking it out for a drive. What's the proper way to hook this up with a turbo? According to the diagram, I have mine hooked up correctly (for N/A, anyway.) From what I gather, I need a true one-way valve right before the filler neck to prevent positive pressure from entering the crankcase. This would still allow flow from out of the filler neck. Correct?
And what about the line from the intermediate housing to the charcoal canister? I assume the brake booster has a one way valve.
you cant run the PVC under boost
.. it is not a true one way valve and will flow the other way and so you are pressurizing the sump space
this prevents both the rotors, and the turbo from gravity draining back to the sump and the oil finds a new path
namely across the oil control rings to the inlet vacuum side in the motor.. and into the exhaust in the turbo
.. it is not a true one way valve and will flow the other way and so you are pressurizing the sump space
this prevents both the rotors, and the turbo from gravity draining back to the sump and the oil finds a new path
namely across the oil control rings to the inlet vacuum side in the motor.. and into the exhaust in the turbo
And what about the line from the intermediate housing to the charcoal canister? I assume the brake booster has a one way valve.
08-15-14, 09:54 PM
#20
talking head
not as simple as that .. you need a system that is not sealed at any point or moment and flows the vapours towards the aircleaner so as not to make an idle bypass
you can cheat and block the PVC and just whack a filter on the filler pipe , but it is messy and fummy and illegal just about everywhere
ie..
if you want to do it right , then set the car up like other turbo cars,, with or without a catch can
but essentially making a flow through system that flows towards the turbo inlet duct
there is a million methods and variations. all complicated by umpteen thousand permutations of catch cans
you will have to use your noggin and apply yourself as im am not spelling it out for every variation
first.. block over your PCV at the manifold
for you , still with a charcoal trap have to think about an extra tee , plumbed into the line feeding the base of the filler pipe ( engine side of the one way )
.. and an extra small one way valve to prevent backflow or boost getting into the fuel tank or charcoal can
PS , yes you need a one way for brake booster if there is not one supplied already
.. off memory only the rx4/929 and rx5/121 copped one from stock
you can cheat and block the PVC and just whack a filter on the filler pipe , but it is messy and fummy and illegal just about everywhere
ie..
if you want to do it right , then set the car up like other turbo cars,, with or without a catch can
but essentially making a flow through system that flows towards the turbo inlet duct
there is a million methods and variations. all complicated by umpteen thousand permutations of catch cans
you will have to use your noggin and apply yourself as im am not spelling it out for every variation
first.. block over your PCV at the manifold
for longevity of the turbo and your engine oil seals... always to a mild inlet vacuum .. without creating a throttle bypass
for bigger badder turbos, ports and blowby .. bigger hoses .. the pissy stock sized nipples cope barely with mild engines and mild boost
this is what works for me -
block the current vent lines, tap your filler pipe for fittings for 3/8 hoses , one at the base , one at the top
( i tap my top one into the lid and get zero mustard )
plumb the top to the inlet pipe on the turbo via a can that is a trap ( no vent breather on the can itself )
plumb the bottom one via a one way valve to a conventional rocker cover filter tucked a little higher than the nipple in the corner of the bay
( the one way valve flows filtered air towards engine .. through sump space . through the trap , and finally only the vapours make the turbo inlet )
for bigger badder turbos, ports and blowby .. bigger hoses .. the pissy stock sized nipples cope barely with mild engines and mild boost
this is what works for me -
block the current vent lines, tap your filler pipe for fittings for 3/8 hoses , one at the base , one at the top
( i tap my top one into the lid and get zero mustard )
plumb the top to the inlet pipe on the turbo via a can that is a trap ( no vent breather on the can itself )
plumb the bottom one via a one way valve to a conventional rocker cover filter tucked a little higher than the nipple in the corner of the bay
( the one way valve flows filtered air towards engine .. through sump space . through the trap , and finally only the vapours make the turbo inlet )
.. and an extra small one way valve to prevent backflow or boost getting into the fuel tank or charcoal can
PS , yes you need a one way for brake booster if there is not one supplied already
.. off memory only the rx4/929 and rx5/121 copped one from stock
Last edited by bumpstart; 08-15-14 at 10:12 PM. Reason: PS
08-16-14, 01:26 PM
#21
And I thought I was "almost done" with this build 
Looks like I've got more reading to do. I'll probably throw a breather on it for now just to see if it clears up my turbo-full-of-oil issue. So far I've only had the car at idle with a few mild revs, not even close to atmospheric pressure. So not sure if it will make a difference.
In the meantime I can read up and hopefully build a nice catch can system.
Looks like I've got more reading to do. I'll probably throw a breather on it for now just to see if it clears up my turbo-full-of-oil issue. So far I've only had the car at idle with a few mild revs, not even close to atmospheric pressure. So not sure if it will make a difference.In the meantime I can read up and hopefully build a nice catch can system.
08-16-14, 09:05 PM
#22
Yeah it didn't care for the breather, treated that like a giant vacuum leak. Oh well. I couldn't resist the urge to drive it, so I took it around the block. No boosting, just careful driving in 1st-3rd. I'm frankly shocked at how well it runs. No sputtering, hesitation, anything. AFR's were pretty steady in the low 12's when on the gas. Runs just like it did N/A only not as pig-rich. It's also very loud since the exhaust system consists of only a downpipe. You can really hear it whistle. Once I get the turbo rebuilt and some kind of ventilation for the crankcase, I'll try a wee bit of throttle and see what it does.
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