lightspd

Meant to type pcv not pvc. if it even has one.
the car is a '84 GS.
Ok here it goes.

I've had a minor oil leak for a while now, no funds to get it fixed, it just leaks onto the exhaust manifold and smokes a little when I stop. I had a quart every 2 weeks or so and keeps it full. Anyway cruising down the highway yesterday, car goes dead. I pull over and everything looks fine, then my temp gauge starts to clime after I have stopped. I figure I might have dropped coolant, because I can smell it burning. I hoof it down the interstate to the next exit, find a auto store, buy a couple quarts and some coolant and head back. Fill the oil and then check coolant, because it's cool now, and coolant is full (not good). Anyway, add oil, doesn't start. Have it towed and then try to start it today, after needing a jump. It starts rough, but then goes fine, then I see smoke (cr&*). I check and it's coming from the the dipstick hole, wtf. Find the dipstick, it had been blown out. So wipe it off and try one more time, I know very bad, but it starts and dipstick stays in, but now when I rev, I get a little smoke from the bay, but it backfires really loud and bad. So the question is I guess, did a blow an apex seal or could it just be a bad pcv?

I know there are several things I shouldn't have done in the paragraph above, but hindsight is 20/20.

Cheers/thanks.

LizardFC

iTrader: (1)

I've never heard of a dipstick being blown out. If you think that's being caused by crankcase venting problem, just disconnect the vent hose from the filler neck. I bet the smoke you saw was actually steam.

It sounds like you might have a combination of issues there. If the oil level ran low, that would cause the car to run hot. The oil in the crankcase doesn't directly lube the apex seals... that's done by the OMP system via the combustion cycle. The pickup for the OMP is very far down on the motor so the level would have to nearly bottom out for it to run dry. And even then, it's probably not going to kill your apex seals right away.

My guess would be a fuel delivery or ignition problem - clogged fuel filter, dying fuel pump, bad plugs, arching wires, bad coil, bad cap and button inside dizzy. Backfires are usually the result of a lean condition or a timing issue. Check the condition of the plugs and verify you are getting a good spark on the leading.

lightspd

Well. I started the car today and the dipstick stayed in, but still idling running rough. So I'll probably start with trying to replace the spark plugs and see if that helps. The next question is, it's currently parked in my work parking, so how far would it be safe to drive it without damaging anything. I really don't want to drive it at all, but I really don't have the money to have it towed either. Now onto the stupid question. Is there any easy way to test the spark plugs, before I replace them?

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

I'm thinking you might need to fear the worst.... an oil leak on the passenger side above the exhaust manifold can only be the OMP.... and if you were losing a quart or so in 2 weeks... that's pretty significant. If in fact it was your OMP lines leaking, and you haven't been pre-mixing, you've been running the engine with no internal lubrication.... not good.

Your best bet right now would be to pull the plugs and check for catastrophic damage. Then pull the exhaust manifold and try to do a visual inspection of the apex seals. You can also put the plugs back in and put a 19mm socket on the E-Shaft bolt and turn the engine over by hand... you should here 3 consistent puffs per rotor housing coming out of the exhaust

lightspd

To add a couple things.

When it overheated on the interstate, after I stopped, engine off, the heat needle climbed to the little mark before the red line, but not to red line, before that, the needle showed normal temps. When I started the car just now, lots of white smoke, so I'm guessing I warped my o-rings. If I don't apply gas or pull the choke out, the car almost dies, rpm's drop to zero and idle goes VERY VERY rough. If I push the gas, it evens out, but doesn't sound or feel right. I don't know how to describe it or what it is, just that it sounds a bit off. I can record it and post to youtube if someone thinks that will help.

I'm going to do the poor mans compression test tomorrow. Right now, I'm on the fence as to weather to try to drive it home or not. It's about 12 miles stop and go traffic, I don't wont to take the interstate. I normally wouldn't even risk it, but my job isn't in the best neighborhood, not bad during the day, but at night wouldn't be caught dead here.

lightspd

Ok so did the champagne test and looks like my o-rings are bad from the overheating. I wouldn't say bubles as much as a white foam formed at the top. It smokes like crazy when I drive and smells like oil, but who knows. I didn't drive it on the road, just around my office building. I fear the worst and am guessing my test tomorrow will confirm a blown apex seal. If the seal is blown, what price should I ask for the car? I can't afford to fix it. The exterior and interior are in good shape.

Thanks to everyone for the replies.

lightspd

Sorry to be a pest. Can anyone confirm my findings?

lightspd

Ok I just did the poor man's compression test and it sounded like I've read it should, didn't hear any gaps. I did notice the spark plugs was black though, so not good. The radiator fluid level hasn't moved, so don't think the rings are bad now. I did notice though who ever had it before, put a mix of plugs in. Front lower was BR9EQ, back lower was BR8EQ, back upper was BR8EQ and front upper was BR9EQ...would this cause any issues? I'm gonna try to replace the front plugs, but want to make sure I put in the correct ones. I read somewhere on here the uppers should be BR7EQ and lower BR9EQ...is this just best practice or must have? I've only got 30 min left on lunch, so if someone sees this please let me know.

Thanks

81WideMariah

iTrader: (8)

what color is the smoke? If you got 3 solid puffs from each housing... then maybe your leading ignition has dropped out.

Pull a leading plug wire.... stick a plastic or rubber handle screw driver in it and hold the metal portion of the screwdriver about a 1/4 inch from a shock tower bolt and have someone crank the car... you should see a spark. If no spark then your leading ignitor may have gone bad.

lightspd

The smoke it dark white maybe...It smells like burning oil. I just tried replacing the front spark plugs, sense those where blank when I pulled them, and still same problem and still lots of smoke. I'm going to try the screwdriver test in a minute. Waiting for a friend to show up to help me.

Where is the vent hose to disconnect to see if it could be the pcv or wouldn't that cause this kind of problem.

Just to confirm I did the poor mans compression test right. I removed the front lower spark plug and tried to crank it and heard a 6 quick puffs in succession.

lightspd

Ok, did the test and sparks good. I unplugged the rear spark plug and nothing change while it was idling. I removed the rear spark plug and confirmed it is sparking. Which leads me to believe I didn't complete the ghetto compression test. The following link say remove the front lead http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/blown.html. Should I also remove the rear bottom spark plug and try to crank the engine?

74RX4

iTrader: (10)

Yes. You need to do the same thing to the rear housing.

lightspd

F$@**(&#!!! No psst sound from rear. Right now I have $14 to my name. So the question now becomes, how much can I sell the car for? Decent body and interior.

lightspd

I want to thank everyone for there advice and help. I guess I'll try to drive it home tonight 12 miles, take pics and create a FS thread on here and CL. Unless someone thinks it could be something else.