Blow through turbo
05-15-06, 01:50 PM
#52
Ok, I hate to ask are you using a timing light to set your timing. Your details say you are but I know alot of people just put the dizzy back in and time it by sound.
Also your fuel pressure do you have a guage to see what it is doing while you are driving?
Problem 1
Ill tell you the **** i hade to solve before mine ran right. At first I was trying the set the timing without a timing light. THAT DONT WORK at all. Turns out after I locked the dizzy the tooth on the gear had to be offset one tooth to get the dizzy to goto 10 degree advanced. Glowing exhaust manifold and jerky ride was the problem there. It would idle and start moving but boost would really really make for a your going to blow the engine ride.
Problem 2
Fuel presure. I purchased a brand new fucked up RFPR. It wasnt raising the fuel pressure so when the boost would really come on the carb would run outa fuel as it was being pushed back into the tank by boost pressure.
Problem 3
I was running 4 psi I raised it to 5.5 and it ran much better. I have a restriction now with my return line due to a higher volume fuel pump then the GSL-SE. I'm running about 6.5 now no problems with that. I do have a jay cee glass ball needle seat rated to 9psi. I have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car and its neat to watch the fuel pressure rise with the boost.
Also your fuel pressure do you have a guage to see what it is doing while you are driving?
Problem 1
Ill tell you the **** i hade to solve before mine ran right. At first I was trying the set the timing without a timing light. THAT DONT WORK at all. Turns out after I locked the dizzy the tooth on the gear had to be offset one tooth to get the dizzy to goto 10 degree advanced. Glowing exhaust manifold and jerky ride was the problem there. It would idle and start moving but boost would really really make for a your going to blow the engine ride.
Problem 2
Fuel presure. I purchased a brand new fucked up RFPR. It wasnt raising the fuel pressure so when the boost would really come on the carb would run outa fuel as it was being pushed back into the tank by boost pressure.
Problem 3
I was running 4 psi I raised it to 5.5 and it ran much better. I have a restriction now with my return line due to a higher volume fuel pump then the GSL-SE. I'm running about 6.5 now no problems with that. I do have a jay cee glass ball needle seat rated to 9psi. I have a fuel pressure gauge inside the car and its neat to watch the fuel pressure rise with the boost.
05-15-06, 05:41 PM
#53
Rotary Enthusiast
I think setting your timing at 10 on a locked dizzy is part of your problem.
i dont know what kinda boost your running or what turbo or even engine for that matter but i ran 14-17 degrees of total advance on my car to get good reliable performance @10psi
i also reccomend running a 10 degree split.
my quest quartermile runs were set at 20 leading 10 trailing with 10psi of boost.
i dont know what kinda boost your running or what turbo or even engine for that matter but i ran 14-17 degrees of total advance on my car to get good reliable performance @10psi
i also reccomend running a 10 degree split.
my quest quartermile runs were set at 20 leading 10 trailing with 10psi of boost.
05-15-06, 05:57 PM
#54
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Originally Posted by mikey D
I think setting your timing at 10 on a locked dizzy is part of your problem.
i dont know what kinda boost your running or what turbo or even engine for that matter but i ran 14-17 degrees of total advance on my car to get good reliable performance @10psi
i also reccomend running a 10 degree split.
my quest quartermile runs were set at 20 leading 10 trailing with 10psi of boost.
i dont know what kinda boost your running or what turbo or even engine for that matter but i ran 14-17 degrees of total advance on my car to get good reliable performance @10psi
i also reccomend running a 10 degree split.
my quest quartermile runs were set at 20 leading 10 trailing with 10psi of boost.
05-16-06, 12:45 AM
#55
Robert told me to run both the leading and trailing 10*btdc. Of course I'm using a timing light. I rebuilt the engine I think I'm a little smarter than that. 3rd there's a gauge on the FPR I was planning on running it into the car after I get it sorted out. I have not been on a dyno yet It's only got 1500 miles on the rebuild. I'm going to get it street tuned perfect before I try and dyno tune it. Stock S5 turbo planning on running 10-12 psi later, but for right now 7psi.
05-17-06, 07:36 AM
#56
05-17-06, 11:48 AM
#58
Rotary Enthusiast
revhead
thats not that advanced. EFI setups run more than that.
Stock timing on an NA engine is is about 6 to 10 degrees more advanced that that.
just stick with what robert says i guess. Id hate to be the one to give you the advice that ends your go fast quest.
thats not that advanced. EFI setups run more than that.
Stock timing on an NA engine is is about 6 to 10 degrees more advanced that that.
just stick with what robert says i guess. Id hate to be the one to give you the advice that ends your go fast quest.
05-17-06, 12:57 PM
#59
Originally Posted by seanrot
I was just trying to help. Guess ill save my assistance for someone who really needs it. You know the guy with the running car.
05-17-06, 06:43 PM
#60
Rotary Enthusiast
if you would have decribed it as running crappy at part throttle you may have gotten some better responces earlier.
usually poor part throttle responce is airbleed/jetting issues.
im no expert there. Good luck! Took me a while to get mine running good to!!
usually poor part throttle responce is airbleed/jetting issues.
im no expert there. Good luck! Took me a while to get mine running good to!!
05-18-06, 01:48 AM
#61
You didn't read my very first post did you?
Wow um it's not poor throttle response. It's brick wall flat on its face lean. When there is between 10 lbs/vac - 0 in the manifold it goes brick wall lean. It doesn't even surge it just falls off from no fuel. Then I push the clutch in and it gets rich again. If there is more than 10lbs/vac in the manifold or it's boosting it's fine. This has been said in the post before. I'm not trying to be a dick, but please read the whole thread and you'll see it's all here.
Wow um it's not poor throttle response. It's brick wall flat on its face lean. When there is between 10 lbs/vac - 0 in the manifold it goes brick wall lean. It doesn't even surge it just falls off from no fuel. Then I push the clutch in and it gets rich again. If there is more than 10lbs/vac in the manifold or it's boosting it's fine. This has been said in the post before. I'm not trying to be a dick, but please read the whole thread and you'll see it's all here.
Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
It's a S513BT blow through weber 45dcoe w/ a mallory 4307 FPR and Holley blue fuel pump incase you needed to know. So where should I hook up the boost reference port on the mallory FPR? It's on the intake manifold right now. Question is that if the turbo is building boost at say 3000 rpm cruise then how would the FPR know that there is boost on the carb side of the throttle plates if the FPR is seeing vaccume from the manifold. How would it know to increase fuel pressure to the carb and cruise no matter how big of a pump you have. I ask because I was kinda mad and just hooked up the charge pipe and it went brickwall lean when I was at part throttle, but if I just stomped on it, it would haul *** down the road at 5psi and the fuel pump was keeping up fine nice and rich 
. Oh and its scarry fast, but I can't drive it over 3k at any type of part throttle or it goes off the map lean and surges, but there is vaccume in the manifold. Do I just need to shut the fawk up eat more cheeseand buy a bigger fuel pump, or what? Again its currently a Holley Blue 14psi@110gph as opposed to the GSL-SE which does 50 psi @ 27gph.
I was thinking about hooking the reference port on the FPR to the wastegate line but the boost controler is a bleed off type so if I'm boosting 12 psi the FPR is only going to seee the 5psi the waste gate does, right?
. Oh and its scarry fast, but I can't drive it over 3k at any type of part throttle or it goes off the map lean and surges, but there is vaccume in the manifold. Do I just need to shut the fawk up eat more cheeseand buy a bigger fuel pump, or what? Again its currently a Holley Blue 14psi@110gph as opposed to the GSL-SE which does 50 psi @ 27gph.I was thinking about hooking the reference port on the FPR to the wastegate line but the boost controler is a bleed off type so if I'm boosting 12 psi the FPR is only going to seee the 5psi the waste gate does, right?
Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 05-18-06 at 01:53 AM.
05-19-06, 03:37 AM
#63
So I put on the MSD fuel pump, nd it made quite a difference! It runs a lot better now. I think It's just a matter of tuneing now. I'm going to throw in some 36mm chokes and smaller air bleeds and see how she goes! It's driving at 7psi now and it's pretty fast, not as fast as I was expecting it to be, but I'm not complaining. It's way faster than i used to be N/A and it ran 14.6 N/A So I'm happy. As long as I can get it to run 12's on street tires below 12psi w/o intercooler I'll be happy. I'll keep you all updated as I get it tuned. Thnaks so much for the help erry1!
05-20-06, 01:41 AM
#64
UPDATE!: same problem, but not as bad. got some 36mm chokes today. lets see if they help. $52.19 for the chokes. FAWK!!!! they're a hard find out hurre. I think if this is not the fixor then 65f9's might be too small. Tomarrow when I put the shokes in I'm going to wrap every thread on the carb with a **** load of yellow gas teflon tape. I did just some screw things today and it made a huge difference. I don't know what they're for but they're in front of the idle mixture screwws and there are no jets under then. HUH? Also 45dcoe has a plate with a hole in it below the choke. Should I made a solid block off plate for that thing? PIx 2marrow!
05-20-06, 01:43 AM
#65
again I say thanks to all that've been of help 0n this. I' honestly a Honda guy and could tear one apart in seconds, but I love the rotay more. There's just some good money in Hondas, LOL people will buy anything!!! That and AE86's and 240 cars nowadayz.
Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 05-20-06 at 01:56 AM.
05-20-06, 12:00 PM
#66
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally Posted by Hyper4mance2k
UPDATE!: same problem, but not as bad. got some 36mm chokes today. lets see if they help. $52.19 for the chokes. FAWK!!!! they're a hard find out hurre. I think if this is not the fixor then 65f9's might be too small. Tomarrow when I put the shokes in I'm going to wrap every thread on the carb with a **** load of yellow gas teflon tape. I did just some screw things today and it made a huge difference. I don't know what they're for but they're in front of the idle mixture screwws and there are no jets under then. HUH? Also 45dcoe has a plate with a hole in it below the choke. Should I made a solid block off plate for that thing? PIx 2marrow!
yes, and you need to block off the choke too
05-20-06, 08:40 PM
#68
So I put the 36mm chokes and the lean thing is worse. I teflon taped every thread I could find, at east Iknow it's not leaking fue anymore. What should I use to block off the fuel injector holes in the LIM. I used JB weld and it blew out! Fawk this sucks...the 36mm chokes didn't help. I'm at a loss... I've got a MSD EFI pump in there. Why does it go so damn lean. I can't even drive up my hill to get out of my neighbor hood. When the boost starts building it goes pig llean and surges and won't go. Again. I'm using 45 aux chokes 36mm chokes 65f9 idle, 195 main, 170 air correctors f-11 etubes. Msd fuel pump and mallory FPR. Boost reference on the charge pipe. I put it on the intake manifold and it was way worse It wouldn't even drive out of my driveway..
Last edited by Hyper4mance2k; 05-20-06 at 08:54 PM.
05-21-06, 12:11 AM
#71
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I'm guessing you mean the injector bosses in the manifold? There might be a blockoff kit. There is for GSL-SE injector bosses, perhaps it's the same for the FC manifolds?
I think mine are like a machined cylinder with a groove for an O-Ring. You stuff them down in the Injector bosses and there is a plate you put over it that bolts into the stock fuel rail holes. It's worth a shot to look.
I think mine are like a machined cylinder with a groove for an O-Ring. You stuff them down in the Injector bosses and there is a plate you put over it that bolts into the stock fuel rail holes. It's worth a shot to look.
05-21-06, 12:13 AM
#72
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Also, I guess you've already heard this, but you may want to look into a FMIC. You can fab something up from an existing core, like an Isuzu NPR intercooler. They're relatively common, and cheap, with low pressure drop and great bang for the buck performance, especially over nothing.
05-21-06, 04:22 PM
#75
Erector set is fot the throttle cable. I went to homo peeploe to get some block offs for my injectors in the manifold. Yea I need to clean it up. It's got a seriuos lean problem I don't know what tot do about it. I've done everything I know. I guess I have to keep getting bigger and bigger jets. As of now I run 4.5 mm aux chokes 36 mm chokes, 65f9 idle jets, 195 main jets 170 air correctors, f-11 e-tubes, and 55 pump jets.