Block off plate?
#1
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Block off plate?
I ordered a Full RB Exhaust system yesterday(1000$ CDN, ouch!) and I was wondering if it came with the block off plate? I don't feel like emailing RB because it would take a while to get an answer.
While I'm at it, I read the post on pros/cons of removing the air pump.. somebody says that if you remove it you can get high at lights... why would that happen? I mean your cat is removed so the air pump is just pushing air for nothing right?
The reason I bought that system is that I think I had a hole in muffler(because of the damn backfires) and I think that my thermal reactor wasn't working anymore...
Might as well grab an extra 22HP
I hope that with the new system my backfires will disappear... or else I guess I'll want to mess around with the timing, the a/f ratio and everything... I'm positive that I'm running too rich at high RPM(I only get my backfires when I shift at 5500RPM++).
I think I'm gonna buy a A/F Ratio Guage soon..
While I'm at it, I read the post on pros/cons of removing the air pump.. somebody says that if you remove it you can get high at lights... why would that happen? I mean your cat is removed so the air pump is just pushing air for nothing right?
The reason I bought that system is that I think I had a hole in muffler(because of the damn backfires) and I think that my thermal reactor wasn't working anymore...
Might as well grab an extra 22HP
I hope that with the new system my backfires will disappear... or else I guess I'll want to mess around with the timing, the a/f ratio and everything... I'm positive that I'm running too rich at high RPM(I only get my backfires when I shift at 5500RPM++).
I think I'm gonna buy a A/F Ratio Guage soon..
#5
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I don't think the RB exhaust comes with a block off plate, but they're only like 6 dollars.
Are o2 housings built into RB headers for a 12a? I'm not sure...
I'd go ahead and remove the air pump. I haven't had any trouble the times I've done it.
Are o2 housings built into RB headers for a 12a? I'm not sure...
I'd go ahead and remove the air pump. I haven't had any trouble the times I've done it.
#6
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Ok, I've done this... remove the air pump - gain hp just from removing it!
Order the block off plates from Mazdatrix. (you'll get them probably before you get your stuff from racing beat)
I'm not positive on the 79 setup, but if you have the tube coming up from the cat to the intake, plug it on the exhaust before you install the new exhaust system, and take that little pipe off the car. Make sure you get that block off plate too. (for where the pipe goes into the intake)
if you're doing all this crap, you might as well do a rats nest removal as well. (you're not going to pass smog, anyway) check www.mazspeed.com there is a tutorial under the facts section.
Order the block off plates from Mazdatrix. (you'll get them probably before you get your stuff from racing beat)
I'm not positive on the 79 setup, but if you have the tube coming up from the cat to the intake, plug it on the exhaust before you install the new exhaust system, and take that little pipe off the car. Make sure you get that block off plate too. (for where the pipe goes into the intake)
if you're doing all this crap, you might as well do a rats nest removal as well. (you're not going to pass smog, anyway) check www.mazspeed.com there is a tutorial under the facts section.
#7
The Racing Bleat headers usually come with the ACV block-off plate. You will need to get a block-off plate for the heat exchanger flange, though. There are no cats on thermal reactor equipped cars ('79-'80). Once you install the header, the ACV gets tossed, as well as the heat exchanger (if you got the whole system, including presilencer). The air pump can go, too, obviously. The air pump should never be removed while catalytic converters or a thermal reactor is present, though. It provides cooling air to keep these components from overheating. 22 hp seems a little too optimistic to me, I'd expect more like 10-15 hp gain, realistically. And yes, you should install an '81 or newer electronic distributor to get rid of the breaker points setup.
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#9
From my 1985 Racing Beat catalog:
"When installing headers on a rotary for street use, there are two general approaches; short primaries and long primaries. If the two primary pipes are brought together early in the exhaust system, the noise will only be moderately louder than stock, and the power increase will be about 7 percent over stock at 7000 rpm. Conversely, if the two pipes are not collected until just before the muffler, there will be a distinctly "metallic" character to the exhaust, noise will increase, and the power increase will be the same or slightly higher. All of the above applies to non-ported engines".
"When installing headers on a rotary for street use, there are two general approaches; short primaries and long primaries. If the two primary pipes are brought together early in the exhaust system, the noise will only be moderately louder than stock, and the power increase will be about 7 percent over stock at 7000 rpm. Conversely, if the two pipes are not collected until just before the muffler, there will be a distinctly "metallic" character to the exhaust, noise will increase, and the power increase will be the same or slightly higher. All of the above applies to non-ported engines".
#10
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From their website, which is probably more recent than '85:
"These exhaust systems offer excellent horsepower gains when you require a muffled exhaust system for your stock-ported engine. The actual horsepower increase depends on which year/model stock RX-7 exhaust system you are comparing to, but a 22% increase at 7000 rpm is typical. Thanks to the combined efforts of the Power-Pulse Presilencer and the Power Pulse Main muffler, the exhaust noise is only slightly higher than stock, with a very low, pleasant character."
"These exhaust systems offer excellent horsepower gains when you require a muffled exhaust system for your stock-ported engine. The actual horsepower increase depends on which year/model stock RX-7 exhaust system you are comparing to, but a 22% increase at 7000 rpm is typical. Thanks to the combined efforts of the Power-Pulse Presilencer and the Power Pulse Main muffler, the exhaust noise is only slightly higher than stock, with a very low, pleasant character."
#11
Well, well, it seems that Racing Bleat has changed their tune over the years, doesn't it? I wonder what has changed? The cars are the same, the products are the same, hmmm this is a mystery indeed...
#16
I just ordered my exhaust tonight. i'm gonna remove the air pump. Is there anything that needs to be plugged when you remove it, besides the block off plate, or can i just undo everything, pull it out, put on BOP, and be done? And yeah, I think 22% is what you get for the whole system. That 7% seemed like it was just the headers, maybe?
~brian
~brian
#18
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well, my car is putting down 110rwhp, about 130 fwhp and all i have done is the racing beat header and custom 2.25 piping. so it's gotta be something around the 22% range. ATLEAST.
#20
Airflow is my life
Nah I did it with thin alum too. As long as its not like tinfoil LOL you should be fine, just use some kind of gasket sealer with the thinner stuff so you dont have a vacuum leak. The steel RB plate is like 3/16" plate steel, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much overkill to block a silly little port. It weighs like 2 lbs
#22
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Originally posted by Wankelguy
From my 1985 Racing Beat catalog:
"When installing headers on a rotary for street use, there are two general approaches; short primaries and long primaries. If the two primary pipes are brought together early in the exhaust system, the noise will only be moderately louder than stock, and the power increase will be about 7 percent over stock at 7000 rpm. Conversely, if the two pipes are not collected until just before the muffler, there will be a distinctly "metallic" character to the exhaust, noise will increase, and the power increase will be the same or slightly higher. All of the above applies to non-ported engines".
From my 1985 Racing Beat catalog:
"When installing headers on a rotary for street use, there are two general approaches; short primaries and long primaries. If the two primary pipes are brought together early in the exhaust system, the noise will only be moderately louder than stock, and the power increase will be about 7 percent over stock at 7000 rpm. Conversely, if the two pipes are not collected until just before the muffler, there will be a distinctly "metallic" character to the exhaust, noise will increase, and the power increase will be the same or slightly higher. All of the above applies to non-ported engines".
#23
Driven a turbo FB lately?
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Originally posted by Rx7carl
Nah I did it with thin alum too. As long as its not like tinfoil LOL you should be fine, just use some kind of gasket sealer with the thinner stuff so you dont have a vacuum leak. The steel RB plate is like 3/16" plate steel, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much overkill to block a silly little port. It weighs like 2 lbs
Nah I did it with thin alum too. As long as its not like tinfoil LOL you should be fine, just use some kind of gasket sealer with the thinner stuff so you dont have a vacuum leak. The steel RB plate is like 3/16" plate steel, wayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy too much overkill to block a silly little port. It weighs like 2 lbs
#24
Okay, the RB setup DOES come with blockoff plates but doesn't come with an O2 bung. I had them weld one onto my Streetport header for $20 (right at the collector and the sensor ends up mid-stream). I grabbed an O2 sensor off a junked Hyundai, screwed it in, and it's pimpin the A/F Meter now where the clock used to live. I went to Mazdatrix and they did the O2 bung.