Well I got little less than 300 miles on the rebuilt T2 engine and I cruising home from work at about 70 mph--look down and the damn oil pressure (stock gage) is pushing the zero mark! Holy ****--I don't want to crater this engine, gas off, pull over and check everything out. It goes back to about 30 while idling. I get out check for oil leaks-none. Oil level good too. So I cruise home watching it like a hawk--looks ok.

Next day, same crap--wtf. So I check everything I can, electrical connections, change the oil filter--still--same crap. So I rode the MC in today and bought a cheapo Autozone special mechanical oil pressure gage for $14.99 and some adapter fittings for $7.50.

Connected up the gage and fittings , what a pita to get to. Anyway, the oil pressure is good: 35 psi at idle and about 63 psi at 3000 rpm. Given the accuracy of the gage, I'm not too worried about the 63--just out of spec low. Looks like something is up with the electrical gage circuit. At least I know it's not really the oil pressure.

The real nice benefit from this, aside from peace of mind, was the gage adapter fittings: one fit the oil pressure port (1/8-28 bsp) and another one fits the sub-zero (oil pan) temp switch port (M14 x 1.5). I can cancel a backorder I have for the M14 x 1.5 adapter ($15+shipping from racerautoparts). Planning to put an oil temp sensor in the sub-zero sensor location. The adapter kit is made by Sun Parts #CP7573 (fyi 1.800.228.7667).

So I'm back on the road after a big scare.

Scott

 

Good to know it was just electrical. Try some electrical parts cleaner on the oil pressure sensor connections. THe stock one may turn out to be fine!

 

Grunge on the connection between oil presure sensor and connection wire was what did it for me. Sloppy "mechanic" ran the oil over the cooler with the filter change. Bad feeling. Electrical cleaner.

 

most modern electronics are bulletproof reliable , its usually always the contacts or connections of any component that cause the havoc