http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=180515821841

check this out! havent seen one forever, how much do you guys think this will go for in the next 5 days? im bidding now

 

I HAVE to have this kit, its soo badass

BTW if anyone here is the previous 2 bidders on this auction you can just stop bidding now! lol sorry im determined to win this **** now

 

You're supposed to wait until it's over and then brag about how cheap you got it. If you post it now, you just risk having more competition.

 

lol good point, i cant even find one of these anywhere on the web, how much did these things go for back in the day?

 

Enjoy your 6PSI max.

JK, somewhat. A few beers in me, but I urge you to search between
Drawthrough and blow though.

 

oh believe me i know the difference, im not looking for a huge power house here, i just saw this drawthrough kit and i must have it. im soo attracted to it and idk why

im only wanting about 6-9 psi somewhere in that range but no more than 10. I am currently working on an 12a that has large streetport intakes, race port exhaust, right now its on hold till august but when i get back to school ill be milling the apex gaps of the rotors to fit 3mm seals, then ill be lapping and resurfacing the irons, and using a gsl-se oil pump. once i get it all back together in august it would be sweet as hell to have a old school cartech setup on it! my guess is ill make about 180-200hp in that range with 6psi, but idk ill dyno it at school when im done

 

Honestly man the power of 6PSI compared to 10PSI in a drawthrough is nil. You
are just heating the air up after that point. much more worthy to just get a weber
carb and blow through that (stock).

More info when it is morning and sober time.

 

Well, that really depends on the turbo. Only difference between blow-through and draw-through from the turbo's perspective is where you're adding the fuel. Yeah, blow-through has advantages, but the amount of air you can move isn't limited by a draw-through setup per se. Draw-through is also a million times easier to set up, especially with a bolt-on kit like this.

Unless your point is that this particular turbo is too small. If that's the case, I'll defer to you since I really don't know crap about turbo sizing.

 

12A apex seals are already 3mm. And besides, 2mm apex seals are generally better than 3mm ones.

Bad, bad, BAD idea unless you re-nitride them at the same time.

 

whoa 12a apex seals are 3mm? huh well i always thought they were 2mm so i have one bad rotor in my parts bin were the only thing wrong with it was the gap for the apex seal has the "v" shape if you will, so i was planning on milling both my rotors wider to 3mm, lol guess i need a new
oh and resurface i meant renitrite, theres a rotary shop in burnsville that i belive can do that for me ill have to check on it tho

 

No, what I meant is that after 6psi (ish) you begin to heat up the air waaay too
much. Hotter air = more chance of detonation. You can't put an intercooler on a
drawthough setup, all the fuel would just pool at the bottom of the cooler.

Now, if you added AI/WI then you can boost boost boost.

 

I hve seen those for sale quite a few time in the for slae section of this forum.

Being a turbo guy, I would want more infor on that turbo. Who made it etc? The last thing you want is Chinese compressor blades going through your engine.

 

Before I switched to my current non-intercooled blow-through turbo setup (only 6 PSI because I'm waiting for my new wideband to get here... plan is to run 10 eventually), I ran 9 PSI draw-through with a Camden supercharger (read: less efficient compressor than a turbo) without any problems and without auxiliary injection. And that was with 15 degrees of leading timing advance; I could have run more if I'd backed off the timing some (and if I'd had a smaller pulley). Granted, my rotors are 9.2:1 rather than 9.4.1 like a 12A, but still. Run 91+ octane, lock the timing at like 10 degrees, and run it real rich in boost and there's no reason you couldn't run 10 PSI safely. And I think you'll find that there will, in fact, be quite a performance boost over 6 PSI.

 

Yeah, too many details missing, and you would want to add methanol injection for anything over 6 psi and lock the distributor. Even a camden would work better.

Good invention for it's day though.

It would have it's place for someone wanting to complete a restoration with some power in a factory appearing car. Good for the wtf questions from observers. The kids seem intrigued enough when a turbo blows through a carb let alone this.

To me, it's worth $250 tops....too much missing and too many details missing. Why are there no details and close up pics of the turbo?? And fabricating the downpipe will be a bitch unless a TII one bolts up, wait, yeah, a picture of it would sure help! Sooo again, why no pics??

If the turbo was a name brand or oe with no chipped blades and a TII downpip would fit I would post a ton of pics.

 

No close ups of the exhaust manifold either. Any cracks??

 

"instructions specify a certain hawley model". If the seller read the instructions, he should be able to spell Holley correctly, lol. At least it's a nice clean unit. Good luck with it.

 

Finding the endplate for that turbo will be a bitch!

 

Here is a project thread with "this" turbo set up
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/12a-cartech-drawthrough-help-814461/

 

Not if you already have a partial kit, or one of your friends is Corky Bell who make the kit or you live near him..

Oh BTW don't bother even asking the kits are no longer made.

Everything stated is correct but for those of us that are into the OLD SCHOOL stuff yes it is a must.

 

i have the same set up.. ran it for years super fun . 11psi 205 horse full boost at 1500 rpm with semi locked dizzy 10L 2T 390 hp holley ported secondaries. it about 410 cfm.. on street port .if ebay does not work out let me no i might be willing to let it go

 

"If you like old school" I agree, being an old dog I am totally into that, just it would be much better if you didn't have to hunt the endplate down.

Back in the day when this thing came out it would have made any Rx7 a killer that could slaughter any mustang or camaro of the late 70's or early 80's vintage out there on the street.

 

84s did you miss my remarks...... it is a problem unless you have a partial kit(yep check 1)..... you know Corky (oh we are 2 for 2) I don't see this as a problem, I see it as a solution. I lost a bunch or parts to my other turbo 12a setup that was in the pacific avatar.... I will still continue to search them out so it can be right, however here is the remaining pieces to complete a cartech unit i already have.

 

That's a good thing

 

ya it started going for way too much so ditched the bid and went and got a used t3 for 75$, goin blowthrough lol

 

HAHAHAHAHA... where do you get your information? lol... I have this EXACT setup and the difference between 6-7 psi and 10-12 psi is VERY noticiable (switching on the fly with electronic boost controller).

I believe the key to running a successful DRAWthrough turbo setup is locking the timing conservatively, BIG free flowing exhaust (3" all the way back here) and (most importantly) USE A WIDEBAND and know how to tune your carb

I can't BEGIN to count how many people have commented on how quick my car is... when I tell them I just kicked their *** on my "low boost" setting they just ... I can usually see gears ACTUALLY grinding in their head when I tell them the engine's only 70 cubic inchs... lol

And I have ZERO delusions of grandeur... I know my car IS NOT as fast as a brand new $30,000 Subaru STi with 350+ hp... I'm OK with that... The fact I can keep up with a supercar such as a tuned STi in my little $400 RX7 (original purchase price) is SIMPLY AWESOME.... ... Now, let me put some fresh rubber on my car, DITCH MY STOCK SWAY BARS and RUBBER BUSHINGS and bump my boost up to my high setting and I'm ready for ROUND TWO!!! ARRGGHHH!!! lol

BRAP BRAP BRRRAAAAAAAPPPPPP !!!!!!!