1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Better Fuel Filter Option?

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Old Dec 24, 2005 | 02:12 PM
  #26  
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I agree with Kentetsu on the fact that we could probably use a better flowing filter. These filters were designed to work with the stock 3psi fuel pump for the stock nikki. They tend to design oem filters to be the cheapest way to meet the minimum requirements for flow and filtering, like the stock air filter. Most people don't say "forget that K&N, just use a paper filter" (although some do).

With my 70gph 6psi Mallory Comp70 I feel that I could probably use a better flowing filter, and preferably one with more filter area. I figure if I went to great lengths to make sure I had the best Air and Oil filters (K&N, Purolator PureONE) then why not go that extra mile with my fuel filter too?

I just want to make sure that the filters aren't so tough that it *requires* the high pressure of an FI system to get the fuel through them. I don't know if that makes any sense in any way, but I could see how they'd make low pressure (carb) fuel filters of a differnet construction from the high pressure (fuel injection) fuel filters.

Jon
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 09:33 AM
  #27  
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Thanks for the input guys. I'm going to head to a couple of stores later today and see what they have on the back shelves. I'll keep you guys "posted" on my findings.
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 10:22 AM
  #28  
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Anyone ever think of running a "Marine" filter/water seperator ????

I know that it might be a little overkill but I have owned many boats and i know from experience that a boat fuel tank gets alot more crap in it than our little FB tanks.....

I also know that i have never clogged a "Marine" fuel filter it might cost you $25 bucks or so but you wouldnt get any water (leads to rust and deposits on your carb and jets) or any dirt running through your tank......

What do you all think of that idea?

Jay
1984 FB
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 10:59 AM
  #29  
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When I bought my car, it came with a bunch of a/n fittings and -6 lines, plus an Earl's fuel filter (the big blue aluminum ones you see FI guys running), and i havn't had any problems flowing fuel through there, my two bottlenecks are the outlet from the tank and the line going to my Holly, both are 5/16" line and -6 is a 3/8" line
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Old Dec 30, 2005 | 12:45 PM
  #30  
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The Amsoil replacement part is GF126 and should be a much better quality filter, I will be adding this one for my next filter change. it is listed at $5.40. I can get them if anyone wants one.
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Old Mar 26, 2009 | 09:20 AM
  #31  
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Anything else to add to this?
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:20 PM
  #32  
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Does anyone here use Fram G3 Filters? I use one before my pump and one just after my regulator into the carb... Seems to be working fine..
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 07:37 PM
  #33  
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Look at the Earl's Billet fuel filters,
not saying to use one, saying to use something with the same element.
It's not paper, but a brass or bronze mesh. Not sure which.

I'm just trying to help here, i plan on staying with stock pump and filters.
I don't think it's the size, it's the type of element material. A scavenging, metal style mesh filter will be the best. If not, Canton makes the best oil filters and fuel filters on the market. Absolutely Hands Down, Darryl Drummonds recommends them for all Rotary Apps.. I have one of there oil filters, never owned a fuel filter.

Last edited by Crispin38; Feb 13, 2011 at 07:41 PM.
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Old Feb 13, 2011 | 08:32 PM
  #34  
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I just used a bigger metal one(Fram) that even had bigger inlet/outlet nipples on it. My hoses could barely fit over it. Seems to work ok, 'can't tell though, since I did plugs, wires, cap and rotor at the same time. I was having a misfire from 6k on up in 1st gear and the misfire moved down in rpm's in the higher gears. Runs great now.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 04:09 AM
  #35  
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http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...lter/index.htm

Check out this site shows the G3 filters quality, you can see when the filters dirty to change it, It just makes sense to me.

Cheers
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 11:35 AM
  #36  
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If I recall, the stock filter is a 100 micron filter. I think the real issue, assuming we keep the stock plumbing and stay with 100 micron filter, is filter area. If this makes sense, then the filter with the greatest filter area that fits where you want to install it should be best.

Old rubber fuel lines do breakdown inside. After 25+ years these should be replaced.

I run a stock Nikki with an additional clear 40 micron filter right before the carb and don't have fuel delivery issues that I know of.
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by mattreeve
Does anyone here use Fram G3 Filters?
Yes, also G2 and G12 (both are 5/16").
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:33 PM
  #38  
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by mattreeve
http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techti...lter/index.htm

Check out this site shows the G3 filters quality, you can see when the filters dirty to change it, It just makes sense to me.

Cheers
the 79-81 cars use a filter like that stock, in 82 they updated to the E508 newer style. the newer filter has a sediment trap at the bottom, so it actually is better

they are CHEAP too. i don't know what brand is hot right now, but we used to get bosch ones for like .99 cents each....
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Old Feb 14, 2011 | 01:59 PM
  #39  
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I use the Fram G3 and keep one as a spare since they're so cheap. It is nice to
be able to look a the filter to see if crap is in there. I'm also running the clear
glass inline filter right before the regulator as well. Its good insurance, plus you
can see the fuel flow as well.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:16 PM
  #40  
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I don't know if I mentioned this in this thread or not, but what I finally ended up doing was run two stock filters side by side. Half of my needed fuel flows through one filter, and the other half flows through the other (as opposed to all fuel flowing through both filters).

That way, each filter only has to run at half duty, and you just doubled your filter area. I've been running this setup for a couple of years now I think, and probably a good 20k miles without any filter changes or starvation issues.

Here's a link to the writeup on this. Lots of photos: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generation-specific-1979-1985-18/dual-fuel-filter-mod-528445/

.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 02:47 PM
  #41  
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Kentetsu, I PM'd Jon the moderator and he got the dual fuel filter mod into the FAQ. I'm going to be doing it pretty soon myself, as well. I like your creativity there, something that is needed here..
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 08:32 PM
  #42  
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Bringing this back from the dead

Found this in a small box of **** I have. I've been carrying this around for the last 7 years. I have no idea why I never threw it away, but it looks like now it may be of some use to me.

Anyone here run this type of filter?


image hosting

I looked up the part number and it says for carburated cars.

Earl's 230106 Earl's In-Line Fuel Filters - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS

Earl's In-Line Fuel Filters with a Screen Type Element feature an 85 micron washable element. These work well as primary or secondary pre-filters in any location in carbureted fuel systems.
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Old Jul 14, 2014 | 10:59 PM
  #43  
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I ve seen peeps use them but i never had a problem with $3.99 filter with 5/16 inlet and outlet from el cheapo auto parts.
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 05:02 PM
  #44  
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I had one of those types of filters on a holley based setup. It worked very well, but the filter element inside had a larger than I would like micron count.

I think nowadays earls offers a paper element for those thats like 40 micron or something.

Mine was a stainless 100 micron, and it let a lot of crap to the carbs rather sensitive needle and seats...
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Old Jul 15, 2014 | 05:55 PM
  #45  
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Based on the part number, the one I have says it is a 35 micron. I plan on using this before my mallory pump.

I bought this today for $5.00, that I will use before the Nikki.

Driveworks Fuel Filter DW-20011: Shop the best Fuel Injection Filter at Advance Auto Parts
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