Casper X

I checked out all the searches I could think of before posting this. I want to replace the master and slave aswell as the hose with a braided line. I just wanted to know the bast way to get the slave out without having to retap those theads! This is the first car I have worked on and I'm really enjoying it. I just wish I bought it in June! Its fricking cold now!!! -7C. Man I need to get a garage!

If this site did not exist would have sold this car. Now I will not rest till its on the road!

Naegleria_Fowleri

When I changed my clutch master and slave cylinder, it just came right out without hassle at all. If the bolts are tight, buy some PB Blaster, or WD40 from an auto parts store, spray it on there, and it should come right off. I'd also get as much of the fluid out of the lines and cylinders as possible first as well. After changing them, its just putting them back on and getting the air out of the lines (make sure the reservoir on the master cylinder doesn't run dry when bleeding the air out of the clutch line, otherwise you will have air pockets). Nothing to it at all.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I use 1/4" drive and extensions on the slave bolts to get the ratchet above the hood line. There is usially enough wiggle in the extensions to get around eveything. Use 1/4" drive under the dash for the master and line wrenches for the hose.

Casper X

Sweet, I got the master off. came in warm up. They both have a 166k on them so I guess its time. The master was full of black sludge. yum yum. i'm sure it will be much happier after this weekend. Thanks again.

DublyDurty

Casper X,

"best way to get the slave out without having to retap those theads!"

I don't think removing the bolts normally causes the problem. I think it's overtorquing when you put them back in!

DD

83rx7boy92

i just took my slave off yesterday i used a 1/4 drive with an extension...for the top bolt..nearest to passenger side....go behind the hard clutch line.....for the bottom...closest to drivers side....go on the outside of the hard line

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

DD is correct, the threads usually get stripped on install, another reason to use a 1/4" drive, along with some blue locktite.

rOtAryIsbEttEr

i never stripped mine.... i guess im special


edit: and here's to number 300

bliffle

Sometimes it helps to have "wobble" type extensions that give you a little wiggle room with the sockets. The only problem I've ever had is getting the end of the slave pushrod properly seated on the clutch operating lever.

It helps to preload the cylinders with some fluid before installing. Otherwise bleeding can be tedious. It's hard to single-hand the bleeding: you need a "SpeedBleeder" with a builtin check valve, or a power bleeder.

Nicholas P.

iTrader: (1)

Use a deep socket for the slave. I just replaced mine last weeknd no problems.

remember, its mm,