Best Theft Prevention/Recovery Method?
12-23-03, 12:03 AM
#52
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Originally posted by Conway
I have a custom limited edition, winter anti-theft Dellorto.
Guarenteed 5 min delay when started cold. Won't idle at traffic lights, won't start unless hood is opened to manually activate the choke (not currently connected).
Bonus feature: will sputter and die at least once before starting up!
Conway
PS It starts up easy in the warm, dry weather.
I have a custom limited edition, winter anti-theft Dellorto.
Guarenteed 5 min delay when started cold. Won't idle at traffic lights, won't start unless hood is opened to manually activate the choke (not currently connected).Bonus feature: will sputter and die at least once before starting up!
Conway
PS It starts up easy in the warm, dry weather.
NICE!
12-23-03, 12:38 AM
#53
The World's Best DIY Immobiliser
Build your own car immobiliser that is simple, cheap and very, very effective.
By Adrian Cuesta
If wiring up a couple of relays doesn't worry you and you can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter, this immobiliser is for you.
You only need a:
12 volt heavy duty car relay;
12 volt Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relay;
12 volt flashing LED;
reed switch that closes when a magnet is nearby;
pushbutton that opens when pushed;
broken remote from a car alarm;
and a magnet.
Most of these bits and pieces you can get from an electronics shop.
Like all immobilisers, this one shuts down the car's EFI or ignition system. But what's different about ours is that if the thief steals your keys (with the remote control attached), he still can't drive away with your car. That makes it just about unique!
So how does it work?
The guts of the remote transmitter case are removed and the magnet is placed inside. The circular magnet from a tiny speaker has been used here.
When you enter the car, you casually swipe the transmitter case past a special place within the car's cabin. This place might be on the centre console, a part of the dashboard - pretty well anywhere.
Hidden behind the area that you swipe is the reed switch - a switch that is sensitive to magnetic fields. The swiping triggers the reed switch that in turn switches off the immobiliser.
Because the reed switch is located behind the plastic of the dash or centre console, there's nothing to see. The swiping movement can be quite natural - part of your hand movement as you put on your seatbelt or settle yourself in the seat. That means that even if a potential thief is watching you closely, he doesn't get any clues.The remote (at right) triggers the reed switch (left) whenever it comes close. Only you know the location of the reed switch!
When you want to arm the immobiliser, you press the button. The pushbutton can be in complete view - the thief gains nothing by ripping it out and either disconnecting the wires or bridging them. When you press the button, the on-dash LED starts to flash, indicating the car is now immobilised. It also reminds you to switch off the system when you re-enter the car.
The Circuit
The diagram shows the circuit that is used.When this DPDT relay is not pulled-in (ie has no voltage applied to the coil), it connects the LED to 12 volts, causing it to flash. At the same time it also stops power flow to the heavy-duty automotive relay, in turn disabling a vital car starting circuit. The car won't start - the immobiliser is activated. Disconnecting the car battery switches off the flashing LED but makes no difference to the position of the DPDT relay. (Note that the LED is polarised and so must be connected the right way.)
You want to go somewhere, so you swipe past the open reed switch with your transmitter case. This momentarily closes the reed switch, allowing power to flow through the DPDT relay's coil. It pulls in, with the second coil power supply path through the top contact causing it to latch - that is, stay pulled in, even after the reed switch has opened. The bottom contact of the DPDT relay then feeds power to the heavy-duty relay, causing it to pull in and complete the car starting circuit.
You drive to your chosen location and want to disable the car. A single push of the normally closed pushbutton breaks the latching circuit of the DPDT relay, causing the relay to open. In turn, this stops the power feed to the automotive relay, and so it also opens, disabling the car. The LED starts to flash showing the immobiliser is set.
Installation
The system can be installed in three separate parts: the DPDT relay, the heavy duty automotive relay, and the reed and pushbutton switches. We mounted the DPDT relay in a 35mm film canister. The relay that we used fitted neatly into the canister, with the wiring passing through a hole drilled in the cap. The canister was mounted under the dash within the wiring loom.
The heavy-duty 12 volt relay should be mounted close to where you break the vital starting circuit. A number of different approaches can be used. In an older car, inserting the relay in the low tension ignition coil power feed will prevent the car starting, as will open-circuiting the ignition key starting signal to the starter motor solenoid. However, if you do the latter, the car can still be "jump started" - not what's wanted!. If there are high current fusible links used for different circuits, it's easy to keep pulling the links until the car is as dead as a doornail and then wire the relay to open this circuit.
Finally, if your car has an electric fuel pump, the immobiliser can disable this. However, note that both EFI and carby cars will still start and run for a short period even with the fuel pump stopped. This might be just enough time for the thief to drive to the middle of the nearest major road intersection before the car dies!
The 'arming' pushbutton can be mounted anywhere on the dash. Note that if this button is accidentally pressed while you are driving along, the engine will immediately stop. Thus you should mount it where accidental activation is impossible.
The location of the reed switch is very important. It should not be awkward to access when you are seated and should also not be so close to the ignition switch that the immobiliser is disabled by the thief without him realising it! Its location is best picked when you are seated in the car. Attach the reed switch to the inside of the plastic panel using a smear of Liquid Nails or similar adhesive.
The most complex part of the system is the wiring of the DPDT relay. We built the complete system on the bench so that we could easily check that everything worked. With the system mocked up, the flashing LED should work as soon as power is connected. Swiping the hand control past the reed switch should switch off the LED, causing the DPDT and heavy-duty relays to click. Pressing the button should cause the relays to again click and the LED to start flashing.
Once the system is operating on the bench, you can install it in the car.
Build your own car immobiliser that is simple, cheap and very, very effective.
By Adrian Cuesta
If wiring up a couple of relays doesn't worry you and you can handle a soldering iron and a multimeter, this immobiliser is for you.
You only need a:
12 volt heavy duty car relay;
12 volt Double Pole Double Throw (DPDT) relay;
12 volt flashing LED;
reed switch that closes when a magnet is nearby;
pushbutton that opens when pushed;
broken remote from a car alarm;
and a magnet.
Most of these bits and pieces you can get from an electronics shop.
Like all immobilisers, this one shuts down the car's EFI or ignition system. But what's different about ours is that if the thief steals your keys (with the remote control attached), he still can't drive away with your car. That makes it just about unique!
So how does it work?
The guts of the remote transmitter case are removed and the magnet is placed inside. The circular magnet from a tiny speaker has been used here.
When you enter the car, you casually swipe the transmitter case past a special place within the car's cabin. This place might be on the centre console, a part of the dashboard - pretty well anywhere.
Hidden behind the area that you swipe is the reed switch - a switch that is sensitive to magnetic fields. The swiping triggers the reed switch that in turn switches off the immobiliser.
Because the reed switch is located behind the plastic of the dash or centre console, there's nothing to see. The swiping movement can be quite natural - part of your hand movement as you put on your seatbelt or settle yourself in the seat. That means that even if a potential thief is watching you closely, he doesn't get any clues.The remote (at right) triggers the reed switch (left) whenever it comes close. Only you know the location of the reed switch!
When you want to arm the immobiliser, you press the button. The pushbutton can be in complete view - the thief gains nothing by ripping it out and either disconnecting the wires or bridging them. When you press the button, the on-dash LED starts to flash, indicating the car is now immobilised. It also reminds you to switch off the system when you re-enter the car.
The Circuit
The diagram shows the circuit that is used.When this DPDT relay is not pulled-in (ie has no voltage applied to the coil), it connects the LED to 12 volts, causing it to flash. At the same time it also stops power flow to the heavy-duty automotive relay, in turn disabling a vital car starting circuit. The car won't start - the immobiliser is activated. Disconnecting the car battery switches off the flashing LED but makes no difference to the position of the DPDT relay. (Note that the LED is polarised and so must be connected the right way.)
You want to go somewhere, so you swipe past the open reed switch with your transmitter case. This momentarily closes the reed switch, allowing power to flow through the DPDT relay's coil. It pulls in, with the second coil power supply path through the top contact causing it to latch - that is, stay pulled in, even after the reed switch has opened. The bottom contact of the DPDT relay then feeds power to the heavy-duty relay, causing it to pull in and complete the car starting circuit.
You drive to your chosen location and want to disable the car. A single push of the normally closed pushbutton breaks the latching circuit of the DPDT relay, causing the relay to open. In turn, this stops the power feed to the automotive relay, and so it also opens, disabling the car. The LED starts to flash showing the immobiliser is set.
Installation
The system can be installed in three separate parts: the DPDT relay, the heavy duty automotive relay, and the reed and pushbutton switches. We mounted the DPDT relay in a 35mm film canister. The relay that we used fitted neatly into the canister, with the wiring passing through a hole drilled in the cap. The canister was mounted under the dash within the wiring loom.
The heavy-duty 12 volt relay should be mounted close to where you break the vital starting circuit. A number of different approaches can be used. In an older car, inserting the relay in the low tension ignition coil power feed will prevent the car starting, as will open-circuiting the ignition key starting signal to the starter motor solenoid. However, if you do the latter, the car can still be "jump started" - not what's wanted!. If there are high current fusible links used for different circuits, it's easy to keep pulling the links until the car is as dead as a doornail and then wire the relay to open this circuit.
Finally, if your car has an electric fuel pump, the immobiliser can disable this. However, note that both EFI and carby cars will still start and run for a short period even with the fuel pump stopped. This might be just enough time for the thief to drive to the middle of the nearest major road intersection before the car dies!
The 'arming' pushbutton can be mounted anywhere on the dash. Note that if this button is accidentally pressed while you are driving along, the engine will immediately stop. Thus you should mount it where accidental activation is impossible.
The location of the reed switch is very important. It should not be awkward to access when you are seated and should also not be so close to the ignition switch that the immobiliser is disabled by the thief without him realising it! Its location is best picked when you are seated in the car. Attach the reed switch to the inside of the plastic panel using a smear of Liquid Nails or similar adhesive.
The most complex part of the system is the wiring of the DPDT relay. We built the complete system on the bench so that we could easily check that everything worked. With the system mocked up, the flashing LED should work as soon as power is connected. Swiping the hand control past the reed switch should switch off the LED, causing the DPDT and heavy-duty relays to click. Pressing the button should cause the relays to again click and the LED to start flashing.
Once the system is operating on the bench, you can install it in the car.
12-24-03, 12:30 AM
#54
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i wired up relay in start circuit that wont allow it to crank unless the dome lites on , first thing theify does at nite is shut door so no lite rite? sucks if you stall it in the middle ofbusy intersection as you have to open door, but i havent stalled mine in a long time.
12-31-03, 09:46 PM
#55
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Hey Directfreak
I like the magnet idea.......I work in the field of Magnetic Resonance Imaging......I play with magnets at a 1.5 Tesla range........
The one problem I see....if you put that remote on a key chain..........you may accidently erase your credit cards or debit card if it gets too close.......I always throw my keys and wallet down in the same place........
Magnets can also damage small electronics such as
digital cameras.....it does not take much of a magnetic field to toast these things.......
Not fun on a friday night........Debt card dont work.......Doh.......
I like the magnet idea.......I work in the field of Magnetic Resonance Imaging......I play with magnets at a 1.5 Tesla range........
The one problem I see....if you put that remote on a key chain..........you may accidently erase your credit cards or debit card if it gets too close.......I always throw my keys and wallet down in the same place........
Magnets can also damage small electronics such as
digital cameras.....it does not take much of a magnetic field to toast these things.......
Not fun on a friday night........Debt card dont work.......Doh.......
01-30-04, 05:41 PM
#58
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01-30-04, 06:26 PM
#59
Originally posted by faye x7
You could always just put a big sign on the car that says, ROTARY POWERED and that will of course scare everyone away. hehe
You could always just put a big sign on the car that says, ROTARY POWERED and that will of course scare everyone away. hehe
You know what, Mazda already did that and it worked! The rotary truck in sales terms was a failure. Only 15,000 sold from 74-77. But of course us rotorheads love the REPU.
01-30-04, 07:08 PM
#60
Right near Malloy
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Damnit. Now I need a whole new theft prevention system...
Okay.. So I know how to make the car a real bitch to drive off, can't make it untowable, but there aren't that many theives out there with tow trucks who'll take the time on any of the cars I'd drive...
Now my problem is the interior... Take my current daily beater.
1993 Honda Civic LX = $1500
Who gives a ****. You can find em all over the place...
Now look inside...
Kenwood Excelon MiniDisc Head Unit = $400
Kenwood CD changer = $150
Audiovox Sirius Satellite radio receiver = $150
Alpine Amplifier with pair of 8" JBL subs = $300
Hell. If I leave my bookbag with my laptop and digital camera in the car, Break a window and you've got more than what the car's worth in stuff.
How do you secure all that stuff?
Okay.. So I know how to make the car a real bitch to drive off, can't make it untowable, but there aren't that many theives out there with tow trucks who'll take the time on any of the cars I'd drive...
Now my problem is the interior... Take my current daily beater.
1993 Honda Civic LX = $1500
Who gives a ****. You can find em all over the place...
Now look inside...
Kenwood Excelon MiniDisc Head Unit = $400
Kenwood CD changer = $150
Audiovox Sirius Satellite radio receiver = $150
Alpine Amplifier with pair of 8" JBL subs = $300
Hell. If I leave my bookbag with my laptop and digital camera in the car, Break a window and you've got more than what the car's worth in stuff.
How do you secure all that stuff?
01-30-04, 07:18 PM
#61
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Originally posted by Pele
Damnit. Now I need a whole new theft prevention system...
Okay.. So I know how to make the car a real bitch to drive off, can't make it untowable, but there aren't that many theives out there with tow trucks who'll take the time on any of the cars I'd drive...
Now my problem is the interior... Take my current daily beater.
1993 Honda Civic LX = $1500
Who gives a ****. You can find em all over the place...
Now look inside...
Kenwood Excelon MiniDisc Head Unit = $400
Kenwood CD changer = $150
Audiovox Sirius Satellite radio receiver = $150
Alpine Amplifier with pair of 8" JBL subs = $300
Hell. If I leave my bookbag with my laptop and digital camera in the car, Break a window and you've got more than what the car's worth in stuff.
How do you secure all that stuff?
Damnit. Now I need a whole new theft prevention system...
Okay.. So I know how to make the car a real bitch to drive off, can't make it untowable, but there aren't that many theives out there with tow trucks who'll take the time on any of the cars I'd drive...
Now my problem is the interior... Take my current daily beater.
1993 Honda Civic LX = $1500
Who gives a ****. You can find em all over the place...
Now look inside...
Kenwood Excelon MiniDisc Head Unit = $400
Kenwood CD changer = $150
Audiovox Sirius Satellite radio receiver = $150
Alpine Amplifier with pair of 8" JBL subs = $300
Hell. If I leave my bookbag with my laptop and digital camera in the car, Break a window and you've got more than what the car's worth in stuff.
How do you secure all that stuff?
01-30-04, 09:08 PM
#62
Beware Of Squirrely Wrath
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Don't advertise what you've got. I don't mean like listing it on the forum, but when you're driving around in questionable areas, just be smart enough to turn the tunes down. Most people who are going to take a whole system out of a car, take it because they know it.
Kinda off the subject of prevention but...
I got a car of mine, not my 7, broken into by some of the most idiotic criminals ever. The deck completely sucked, and didn't even work right, so I obviuosly hadn't been "advertising" but, they had to remove the face plate that I'd left on, in order to get the deck out. When they left, the face plate was left on the floor. They also left the bank bag from my shop that was sitting not entirely under the passenger seat, my camera, my pool cue, and my mag light. They took my ex-wife's purse, but all it had in it was her social security card. Not much good there considering her credit at the time. So they basically got away with nothing. This type of thing is more common that someone actually taking everything of value, as it's often too time consuming, and too much **** to carry.
Brian
Kinda off the subject of prevention but...
I got a car of mine, not my 7, broken into by some of the most idiotic criminals ever. The deck completely sucked, and didn't even work right, so I obviuosly hadn't been "advertising" but, they had to remove the face plate that I'd left on, in order to get the deck out. When they left, the face plate was left on the floor. They also left the bank bag from my shop that was sitting not entirely under the passenger seat, my camera, my pool cue, and my mag light. They took my ex-wife's purse, but all it had in it was her social security card. Not much good there considering her credit at the time. So they basically got away with nothing. This type of thing is more common that someone actually taking everything of value, as it's often too time consuming, and too much **** to carry.
Brian
01-31-04, 09:50 AM
#63
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Originally posted by jimtesla
The one problem I see....if you put that remote on a key chain..........you may accidently erase your credit cards or debit card if it gets too close.......I always throw my keys and wallet down in the same place........
The one problem I see....if you put that remote on a key chain..........you may accidently erase your credit cards or debit card if it gets too close.......I always throw my keys and wallet down in the same place........
06-07-04, 02:51 PM
#65
finally back in an RX-7!!
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ok, i feel like a moron here, and I guess it's ok for you guys to know, but right now I don't have the money for a REAL alarm system, so I got a 3 wire fake LED thing. It says "easy installation" well, apparently I'm a complete idiot, cause I can't figure it out. I have the constant power to the red wire, and I'm grounding the black. this causes the lights to go on, which is good. however, I (obviously) only want it on when the car is off. so the yellow wire is supposed to be "ignition-grounded when engine is off" and then they have in parenthesies (fuse box, i.e. radio fuse). Where specifically do I wire this yellow wire in? I don't understand, do I just wire it to the fuse or something? I have all aftermarket stereo equipment, so I don't even know if the stock stuff is hooked up. Basically I'm asking, where do I attatch the yellow wire to so that when the car is on, the LED's are off, and vise versa? Thanks, and sorry for not knowing much about electronics!
06-08-04, 02:13 AM
#66
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here in Aus (well perth anway), you're not aloud to buy/sell a car with a gov. aproved immobilizer (one thats got two 'kill switches').
and they can be remote (such as mine, i love it), or one where you have to stick a plug like thing into a socket..
aparently they are really hard to beat, but if you know what ur doing it can come off in about 30mins, but i dont think anyone is gopnna spend 30mins trying to steal my car!
-Cheers
and they can be remote (such as mine, i love it), or one where you have to stick a plug like thing into a socket..
aparently they are really hard to beat, but if you know what ur doing it can come off in about 30mins, but i dont think anyone is gopnna spend 30mins trying to steal my car!
-Cheers
05-15-05, 10:30 PM
#67
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im not done yet but working on this system.
I took the electronic door locks off a 91 dodge van (you have to use the passenger lock on the driver side and vice versa) I took off the door lock (the one you push down) im now changing the vinyl on the door panels so it looks stock with no hole. I took off the wires that releases the door gam, the inside and out side ones (il shave the out side handles once I do my body work)
i then took a wire from the actual dodge lock mechanism and made a short one to fit between the door unlock arm and attached to the door opener arm, so when you press the unlock button the door is ready to open, il all so making a switch some where in the back hatch so if my batt ever dies un the car or remote i can still get in the car, im then going to buy some aircraft switches (the ones with a red cover over the switch so no one can use a cote hanger to open the door. im all so installing a switch to cut off the spark and fuel, and i have 2 spare alarm horns im installing in the rear hatch so if some one feel like crawling in the back with the alarm bussing in both there ears find the switch shut off the car alarm and start the car i hope by that time some one notices there *** trying to steal my car (latter after i install my 13B T2 with a greedy 700hp tubo engine il get a viper alarm system with a GPS tracker)
I took the electronic door locks off a 91 dodge van (you have to use the passenger lock on the driver side and vice versa) I took off the door lock (the one you push down) im now changing the vinyl on the door panels so it looks stock with no hole. I took off the wires that releases the door gam, the inside and out side ones (il shave the out side handles once I do my body work)
i then took a wire from the actual dodge lock mechanism and made a short one to fit between the door unlock arm and attached to the door opener arm, so when you press the unlock button the door is ready to open, il all so making a switch some where in the back hatch so if my batt ever dies un the car or remote i can still get in the car, im then going to buy some aircraft switches (the ones with a red cover over the switch so no one can use a cote hanger to open the door. im all so installing a switch to cut off the spark and fuel, and i have 2 spare alarm horns im installing in the rear hatch so if some one feel like crawling in the back with the alarm bussing in both there ears find the switch shut off the car alarm and start the car i hope by that time some one notices there *** trying to steal my car (latter after i install my 13B T2 with a greedy 700hp tubo engine il get a viper alarm system with a GPS tracker)
05-16-05, 10:22 PM
#68
How About A Cup Of STFU
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On the grant removable wheel, just sit the wheel in the passenger seat and take the pin with you.
On the "kill switch", there are credit card slots that mount in the dash that your card has to be in the slot to crank the car. From Jegs: 116-3210 Auto Rod Controls CREDIT CARD IGNITION $89.99 VERY COOL !
Also, on the cheap you could install a single large fuse holder ( the really huge plug in fuses like Ford uses ) to the left of the wheel / lower dash and have the fuse drilled and attached to a breakaway key ring. When you get out, take the key and the fuse and push them together. When you return, separate them and put the fuse in and start the car with the key. Cost ? Less than 25. Effective ? I'd say so. And would look okay, too.
On the "kill switch", there are credit card slots that mount in the dash that your card has to be in the slot to crank the car. From Jegs: 116-3210 Auto Rod Controls CREDIT CARD IGNITION $89.99 VERY COOL !
Also, on the cheap you could install a single large fuse holder ( the really huge plug in fuses like Ford uses ) to the left of the wheel / lower dash and have the fuse drilled and attached to a breakaway key ring. When you get out, take the key and the fuse and push them together. When you return, separate them and put the fuse in and start the car with the key. Cost ? Less than 25. Effective ? I'd say so. And would look okay, too.
07-14-05, 01:59 PM
#69
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Originally Posted by Terrh
And getting a bigass shock every time you touch the car would certainly be a good deterrent.
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