hey thanks a lot for the link. I think i might get one of those. I was a little leary before but it sounds like you guys have had good luck and my car is not really driven every day so it would work well. thanks.

CJG

 

Just make sure you get one that meets or excedes the stock flow rate. I know here in the states that electric water pumps are often designed with only drag racing in mind. They flow too little to be used on the street , but don't take much power to run, hence they're good for power.

Electric pumps also have a bad rap for reliability...when they fail, you get no warning until the car rapidly overheats. That compounded by the fact that you won't be able tell its overheating because the temp gauge relies on the flow to feed it new hot coolant, so when the electric pump goes, you roach a motor. At least with a mechanical pump, you know its spinning as long as the motors turning. It may leak, it may flow poorly, but it will never just stop (and if it does you'll hear your belts slipping)

So I agree with DF that you probably shouldn't use them on the street. That being said, I'm sure if the Davies Craig pump flows 80L/min then thats plenty flow for a street car, and you'll probably be able to run it just fine on the street, but that doesn't negate the possiblity of it failing..... just be aware

 

Fair enough, I agree with that.

80L/min is plenty, as this exceeds the factory pump idle. Also, CSIRO testing has shown that anything above 60L/min on the average radiator does not increase cooling ability - the graph flattens out above this rate, so to speak.

If the thing stops pumping, you will notice it overheating, so you switch it off. If this is a concern, there is nothing stopping you wiring in a temp warning light.

If there is catastrophic pump failure and you have coolant loss, well this is no problem if you have a coolant level sensor, than as soon as it comes you, you make sure you switch off the engine, simple. This is NO difference from a radiator hose splitting - occurs reasonably often too. I know of one such failure using this pump. Coolant level sensor went off. No damage, pump replaced under warranty.

Also, Davies Craig was recently given a full patent of the EWP in Australia, US and soon Europe.



Check out www.vpw.com.au - their prices have been the cheapest I've come across.

Quote:

Also spoke to performance exhaust place, he recomended 2.5inch straight through with 2 cannon style mufflers. Would this be an ideal setup for NA 13B? How loud would this be, especially considering no cat? Is $400 aus a resonable price considering he will cut the extractors a bit shorter and put in a flange to make it 2 1/2 all the way through, using mild steel and the 2 mufflers are supposedly good American ones, he mentioned the naem but i can't think of it now, it was a name i hadn't heard of before.

That sounds fine, except it will be loud. I don't recommend cheap cannon mufflers. Magnaflow could be the American ones he was referring to? I have a magnaflow and its great. You made need up to four resonators/mufflers to keep noise down. Make sure the place is willing to do a noise test and factor in an extra resonator if you decide that you want them to add it if the noise is too much. I don't recommend shortening the extractors....you want them longer if anything as this will give you more fill at high rpm.

 

So how did you go about installing the EWP? You still have the stock water pump on right? You just dont run a belt on it? or what? Thanks in advance. Oh and as far not taking certain things on the street, people used to tell me you cant run a PP on the street or race slicks etc. But i do any ways and its all good.

CJG

 

Sorry for the late reply.

I replaced the water pump with a 10mm aluminium plate cut to shape.

I then ran a shorter belt straight from the eccentric shaft to the alternator.

Then the EWP sits to the centre of the radiator, just below the bottom tank (its a 79-83 short radiator), so that it is gravity fed. The original bottom radiator hose was cut to fit from the lower radiator hose to the EWP, then a convoluted radiator hose that can be shaped to fit was placed from the EWP to the lower water pump housing inlet.

If you are keen, you can actually make an inlet/outlet flange to replace the entire water pump housing, then bracket the alternator in a side mount position, thereby lowering your centre of gravity towards the roll centre and increasing flow in the cooling system.

 

OK thanks. I might work on making something to replace the whole water pump. There is a couple on ebay right not that bolt on and have AN fittings but they look restrictive and they say they are for drag racing. i might make my own for better flow. thanks again.

CJG