darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Okay, so I got the O-rings, read up on changing it all, and went for it, but I find that one of the two 10mm nuts is stripped, and I can't get a hold of it at all. Its the harder one to remove of the two in terms of location. I've even tried Vise-Grips after the combo wrench only slipped and still nothing. This thing just wont budge. Are there any other ways to pull the cooler? or does anyone have any other ideas to get this nut moving?

peejay

You did try a six point box wrench right?

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

6 point box, 12 point box, and even a 12 point gear wrench, all grab then slip when trying to turn it. I have no idea what to do, I've got WD-40 on it right now. The nut-breaker (geez, that sounds lethal) is too big to get up there, so cant even destroy the nut.

peejay

WD-40 is not penetrating oil. Use penetrating oil.

After that, get a 3/8" wrench and cram it on there.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'll try that.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

No good, still wont budge.

FB II

i use rust penetrant made by mopar. always works on my carb rebuilds. and to anyone who's rebuilt one that hasnt been touched in 20 years, you know how hard those screws are to get out!

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

I'll be on the lookout for that stuff, I hope its available in Canada. Thanks.

Kentetsu

You might want to try one of those new fangled grip wrenches that most of the auto parts stores are selling. It almost resembles a pipe wrench, and is designed for use on stripped nuts. Can't remember if there is adequate clearance to get in there with it though.

Otherwise, you might as well remove the entire assembly and replace it with the older radiator oil cooler type. You can usually find these cheap at junk yards. They provide better oil cooling anyway, so it sounds like a good time for an upgrade! Good luck!

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, I'm going out looking today for something to pull it out. The penetrant didnt work, . I'll keep that description in mind today when im out. Thanks again.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Heres an update, the nut is still stuck, stripped more than ever now. I managed to pick up a small nut-breaker that fit, but problem is even that is slipping off the nut when it gets tight! Its crazy...been at this one nut too long...

lovintha7

Upgrage to the early radiator oil cooler, it's much better, and not expensive.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

I would, but I still need to get this old one out.

Kentetsu

As long as you are going to upgrade, you might be able to heat the nut with a propane torch (watch for fire hazard though) until it is cherry red, then use a cold chisel and hammer to knock it off. You may be able to do this without the torch, but I'm not sure.

This would surely trash the stud on the cooler, but like I said, as long as you are going to upgrade it shouldn't be a problem. Good luck!

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Alright, I have another few questions - theres something under the beehive cooler, looks like one of those customer service bells stuck into the engine. Is that the pressure sensor? if not, what is it? and can it be removed temporarily? (so I can get more access to that nut) and if it can, how? I appreciate the help.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Yep, it's the stock oil pressure sender. It's a mushroom-lookin' thing. It can be removed pretty easily.

Sorry I can't help more, but the only time I've ever removed a beehive was when the engine was already out of the car. Getting to the 10mm nuts was so much easier.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Nice, are there any precautions in removing it, or putting it back in? or any seals I should know about before I go about it?

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Nope. Have you ever messed with NPT fittings? It is BSP which is like NPT (tapered threads) and tightens down just the same.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

No first hand experience with them. But, as long as you say so, I'm ready to try it! Thanks Jeff.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

ITS FINALLY OUT! and about time, that took wayyyyyyy too long. I got a pencil shaft attachment for the dremel, and just went at it. Ate away at half the nut, then took a long chisel, and just mashed it.

Tom

I would take that bugger to the mountain and offer it up to the auto repair god's.. Maybe they will go easier on you next time

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

I think im gonna frame it, lol.

On another note, that banjo is tough!! how are you guys managing to pull that thing???

slashdawg00110

The banjo at the back of the cooler? I went at it from below the car with a 23mm wrench I talked myself into buying at Sears. Came off pretty easy as I recall.

darkfrost

iTrader: (1)

Yea, I just managed to get it out now, took a bit of force and a couple of scraped knuckles. Thanks to all who helped me out!

and oh yea, feel free to comment on the nut, lol

jimmyjoejoe

be sure to chase the thread on that sucker, otherwise you'll have a helluva time putting the new nut back on. i would have just told you to get some vise grips, or, sears makes stripped nut removers... although i'm not sure about the clearancing on the side between the pedestal and the stud.

aw hell, just go find an old SA body and take the air oil cooler off of that guy... be sure to take the radiator and the pedestal too.

and when you're putting the beehive back on, double check the viton oil rings that sat on it. if they're original, they're most likely hard and dead. (do the beehives use 4? i believe that's the case) I'm not sure where to get them (my dad brings them home from work by the bagful, so i'm happy), but i'm sure mazdatrix or someone has them. that, and clean off the pedestals real good cuz i had some sealing troubles there.