dj55b

iTrader: (2)

So I swapped out Chris (Orion84gsl) beehive to front mount oil cooler yesterday, and was wondering do the heater lines that used to tap off there have to get reconnected where it "T"' where the heater lines are? Or can they both be blocked? If blocked will that result to higher coolant temperature due to not the same amount of fluid flow in the hoses?

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the T basically splits the heater water up, and half goes thru the heater, and the other half goes thru the cooler. if you bypass the cooler, you should block that part off, other wise you'll have most of the water going from one side of the car to the other, and the rest going thru the heater.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

well the thing is that he called me up this morning and said his water temp guage is rising above normal, with the hoses blocked off. Thats why I ask.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

It turns out it was rising above normal because...... the heater hose built up too much pressure and blew. it was fun trying to get the store without grenading the motor. But shes all fixed now with new hoses and clamps. I capped the heater line from the T to the inlet on the firewall, because, well it's summer. Only took an hour in the Partsource garage (ie: parking lot) with an exacto knife, star screwdriver, 10 mm wrench, 2 gallons of coolant and alot of cursing. She's running like a champ now. The needle doesn't budge past normal op temps. It's days like yesterday that make me think I might actually know something about cars.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

I suggest running a line and connecting the 2 tees, less chance of blowing a capped line

81gsl12a

iTrader: (1)

i always cut the pipe so it is only 1 out let insted of 2 and from there i run to the heater or block it off depending on what the car is used for

cheers PaTricK

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

You can get the engine bay heater tube from a '79-'82 car that runs from the rad to the firewall. That eliminates one unused nipple. The other unused nipple on the rear plate can be blocked; I did it successfully on the '83 when I converted it to a front mount oil cooler. I'm glad I didn't cut it off because it doesn't leak, and is backwards compatible with a beehive.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

The caps were just a parking lot fix to get me going again. After the sudden temperature drop here in Ontario and then having to drive home at 3am with no heat, I will be running a new heater hose, however because the heater line comes off at a 90 degree angle to the flow of the coolant, blowing the cap "shouldn't" be a problem. I say that with a hope and a prayer that I'm entirely right. Most of the pressure should be forced through the replaced main line, thus putting little pressure on the cap. The coolant will take the path of least resistance, and that is straight through, instead of turning a sudden left. So far so good. I'm not saying theres no chance, and if anyone, it will happen to me. But I'll be putting a new line on soon, so I wont have to worry about it long.

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

The pressure will be equal all around, whether it's straight or at 90*. I don't trust most of the rubber caps due to poor quality. Frankly, I'd trust a short piece of heater hose with a bolt stuck in it and a good band clamp more than most of the caps I've found.

Latin270

Ghetto but effective.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I actually used an old piston from a slave cylinder instead of a bolt. Perfect size. Very effective.

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Instead of what bolt

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Instead of Scott's bolt.

Jeezus

iTrader: (4)

Whodathunkit?

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

It might just be me ... but I definatly have more bolts laying around than slave cylinder pistons ...

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

I didn't have any large enough bolts laying around when I needed something to block the heater fitting on the engine in the MG. The piston was small enough to fit in the engine bay with only mm to spare against the firewall.

You can see it here after I pulled the engine.



I've since purchased a heater block off bolt from Racing Beat. You can use these on I think '81 and older engines. '82 had a pressed in short fitting and '83-'85 12A had a T shaped fitting; also pressed in.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

For those interested, here's the RB bolt in a rear plate. See how short it is? Perfect for the MG project.



And here is the rebuild ready to go back in the MG.

Jaime Enriquez

Hey Jeff20B...got a RB part # or link for that block-off bolt?

Rogue_Wulff

I used those caps when I took off the beehive. After blowing the end off the one on the engine, it now has a short piece of hose, with a cut-off drumstick clamped in it. That's what happens, when the person you call for help, is a drummer/rotorhead.
That reminds me, I still need to replace that other cap with something far less sophisticated.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

http://www.racingbeat.com/resultset....rtNumber=11490

Rx7carl

+1eleventy! I had a rubber cap on the racecar's nipple. It started to have deep surface cracks after one weekend. I had to check it religoulsly after every session the next. Ditched it after that. They are made of cheap rubber, dont use them.

Or I guess you could use a drumstick end like Rogue did.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Yeah i didnt use that, mine is made of rubber, BOOOO rubber. I have the hose, now i just need time