1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Battery relocation?

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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 07:56 AM
  #51  
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From: Socal
Originally Posted by John64
Heres my battery relocation:



As you can see I used a 200amp circuit (resettable) breaker from the battery to the starter. I also used and fuse (200amp) within 12" of the battery for the line to my stereo.(This is just my audio background as it is required by all sanctioning bodies and very good practice.)

As for running the lines, I stated this earlier. Run one line from the battery to the starter (this takes the most current). Then a line from the starter to the fuse box under the hood.(You do not need to run 2 lines under the hood) Partsexpress sells a firewall grommet that is waterproof and very nice for $7.


The one thing I did not like Manntis is that you said you glued your tray down. I would seriously rethink this. The glue over time will degrade and your battery will become unstable. I used a tray and bolted it down to the floor (racing bodies state at least 4 bolts must be used)
In my RX-3, the optima is in the trunk with an inline fuse, then the cable ran thru the driver side straight to the starter. Then a insulated wire (appx 10 gauge from a stereo shop) from starter to a GLC fuse box (fused also).
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 12:05 PM
  #52  
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
Originally Posted by John64
Heres my battery relocation:



The one thing I did not like Manntis is that you said you glued your tray down. I would seriously rethink this. The glue over time will degrade and your battery will become unstable.
I also said it is industrial epoxy,the sort Lotus uses to glue frame member components together. Think they're wrong too??
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 12:09 PM
  #53  
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From: Saskatoon, SK & Montreal, PQ
Originally Posted by wackyracer
thank you!!! My last battery relocation is in my 73 RX-3 and I had to invest on a $40 fusebox plus an optima battery (so no battery box needed). Maybe I will take pix this weekend to show how its done "correctly."
Dude, I rewired 200 LSVW trucks, battery to starter, for base maintainance using my technique because it's what the designers said was safest. 12 years and hundreds of thousands of kilometers per year driven by each, many in combat conditions in afghanistan, and I've yet to hear of a short.

It's also how BMW does their rear mounted batteries. Shut the **** up about "correctly" - not only are you being an antagonistic *****, but in the real world, you're wrong. Protect your cables, not some half-assed patch for when your cables fry because you thought "Oh, I put a fuse in, so I don't need to sleeve it"...
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 01:11 PM
  #54  
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^wow, I'm a jerk sometimes.

wacky, breakers aren't a bad idea, especially for the average back-yarder who just runs cable without protecting it (or places it near hot metal). But properly protected cable (which only costs about $5 bucks) does the same thing without putting a break in your main power line. I've been doing it that way on 12V and 24V systems for 17 years without a single line short, including on vehicles that see mileage that would make a cab driver blush.

Iltis, LSVW, MLVW, etc. - all 24 volt systems, all with remote batteries, and all vehicles where a short means the occupants in the now dead become targets for enemy fire and potentially dead themselves.

I'm working on my third 312V vehicle and for those, yes we do use breakers - but to prevent EV motor runaway, not shorts.

Last edited by Manntis; Jul 18, 2007 at 01:17 PM.
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Old Jul 18, 2007 | 02:12 PM
  #55  
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From: Socal
Im a HVACR tech and I have wired a much more complex ice machines with sphagetti wires and has a bunch of ******* sensors. In addition, I worked on low-riders with multiple batteries in teh trunk. Just trying to protect an investment.
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