Manntis

When going from the starter to the fusebox, does it come off the same pole as the cable from the battery to the starter, or is there a separate accessory-n-engine-power pole on the starter?

inuissus_cendi

Same place, on the starter bolt. Just get a cable with two lugs crimped on either end and bolt one to the starter bolt, on top of the lug of the battery cable, and the other to the fusible links.
I would have taken thorough pictures of my install and done a write up, but someone recently stole my camera. Blame them.

Manntis

any problems tying it down with the lump in the floor near the centre tunnel? Is it worth making a 'pedestal' like the stock one under the hood?

13BTOY

iTrader: (1)

Some people may not agree to my simple method but it seems to work fine. I actually had to swap out my red top optima(not holding a charge) for a no name 500 amp battery at the moment till I can exchange it and it still starts right up.

Thanks, Ed

Stevan

iTrader: (17)

IIRC, I used very short sections of fuel hose at the bolts, under the frame as spacers/insulators, some were shorter than others to compensate for the lumps in the floor.
So some type of tray, or plate with "shims" under it would be good.

Manntis

Well, it's in. I bought a metal battery tray and used industrial adhesive to glue it down. Added an up-n-over tie down, and with the bin back in place (including rear plastic but not the lower cloth) it looks slick.

I sent a new wire from the starter to an insulated junction block, so I've a positive post under the hood to jump the car with if needed. The junction block is custom machined nylon, a bolt, a brass washer, and some hose around the whole assembly, then used a hose clamp screwed to the left strut tower to grab the insulating hose around the middle, holding the junction firmly without contact with the positive post. I machined a second chunk of nylon to make a screw-on cap covering the whole shebang to prevent moisture or contact from shorting anything out.

I'll try to snap some pics tomorrow, if it's sunny.

RotaryRevn

Can you post some pics of your install?

thanks

Manntis

sure - tomorrow

Manntis

Nestled in the passenger storage bin, complete with stock plastic surround for a more finished look

Manntis

Positive junction near fuseblock, with nylon cap screwed on



With nylon cap removed, exposing threaded positive terminal

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

where's the fuse? you need it within 6" from the terminal in case of a short.

Manntis

Battery terminals aren't fused, nor was the stock line from battery to fuseblock.

The terminal is mounted in a nylon sleeve, then in rubber hose, and capped with nylon. The only potential for a short is if I take the nylon cap and jump the terminal to the body.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Battery relocation [bwithout[/b] a fuse or some sort of circuit protection is below my standard. I just wont do it period. I dont care if the cable has a thick *** cover.

Manntis

the cable is threaded through rubber hose from battery to starter, and all pass-through points are radiused and taped with anti-chafing protectant.

Fusing a line to a fuseblock, when proper isolation measures are taken, is redundant and just 2 more connections to get contaminated. My standard is to design it to avoid shorts in the first place.

RotaryRevn

Thanks for posting pics Manntis.


Wacky, maybe you can help me relocate my battery. I need to do it soon to make room for the intercooler piping. I'm thinking about doing the second gen fuse upgrade as well.

Manntis

as you can see, 2nd gen fuses are a direct swap

RotaryRevn

Yeah, I noticed that. Looks real good! I want the 2nd gen fuse box because I read that it was easier to run accessories. I have my microtech and electric fan coming off of the fuse box and it's getting crowded over there.......lol

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Sure, just give me a hawler.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

Redundant maybe but its a guarantee that its not a "mickey mouse" job. I never take short cuts and I do it right the first time.

Manntis

dude, it's power to a fuseblock. Putting a redundant fuse IN the line is mickey mouse, as it creates a point of entry for corrosion while providing fused protection for fuses - something entirely useless. Protecting the lines against shorts in the first place by preventing wear and exposure is doing it right the first time.

If you're concerned about your wiring being that shitty and prone to wear and shorting, you put in a breaker, not a fuse. I prefer to just sleeve and wrap the wiring and prevent the problem from the start.

I think those who have seen my threads on lighting and other electrical know that I do not take chances when it comes to wiring and safety, and strongly discourage others, at every opportunity, from taking said chances.

You wanna keep wingeing, PM me.

RotaryRevn

Thanks man, I'll get in contact when I'm ready!

dj55b

iTrader: (2)

Not hating anyone, but I have to agree with Manntis.Just because you have a fuse in there, doesn't mean anything. What if the side from the posive of the battery came loose and shorted something? How will the fuse help at all then? If he did like 2/3 differen't wires all taped up or soldered instead of one long one I would consider that Mickey Mouse. I wouldn't really call putting a fuse in there Mikey mouse, just unessary and as Manntis said creates more point in the line.

John64

Heres my battery relocation:



As you can see I used a 200amp circuit (resettable) breaker from the battery to the starter. I also used and fuse (200amp) within 12" of the battery for the line to my stereo.(This is just my audio background as it is required by all sanctioning bodies and very good practice.)

As for running the lines, I stated this earlier. Run one line from the battery to the starter (this takes the most current). Then a line from the starter to the fuse box under the hood.(You do not need to run 2 lines under the hood) Partsexpress sells a firewall grommet that is waterproof and very nice for $7.


The one thing I did not like Manntis is that you said you glued your tray down. I would seriously rethink this. The glue over time will degrade and your battery will become unstable. I used a tray and bolted it down to the floor (racing bodies state at least 4 bolts must be used)

Qbuilt

I just wanted to add that its allways a good idea to have a circuit breaker device. I recently relocated my battery to the right rear bin, using a vented battery box( how come no one else is??) I ran the positive cable thru the floor, over the driveshaft, above the heartsheild and up yo the starter. The cable was well insulated and was also very secure from touching the driveshaft/exhaust. I drove it like this for a few weeks. Then i went on a road trip, and with a little highspeed, spirited driving the heat from the exhaust, soaked the heatsheild which radiated to the battery cable and literally melted the insulation off the cable. Which then eventually shorted to the chassis and left me stranded, not to mention the acual plastic of my battery burnt my hand when I touched it. Im just happy my battery didnt explode all over the back of my girlfriend( and the sparco's!!!!!).

Moral of the story, run the cable across to the driverside then go thru the floor, up to the starter, and put a damn fuse in located close to the battery. This probally is pretty much common sence. I had a brain fart i guess.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

thank you!!! My last battery relocation is in my 73 RX-3 and I had to invest on a $40 fusebox plus an optima battery (so no battery box needed). Maybe I will take pix this weekend to show how its done "correctly."