blujRX7

1983 GSL limited edition
12A engine
5 speed

battery fully charged, Optima
New starter
ignition switch works just fine before starter failure in late spring, early fall seasons.

Youtube video:
Video is sideways so sorry about that, its recorded from my phone, converted and downgraded to shrink the size to upload faster. Go to the site itself to see details of the video itself on whats going on and me mumbling.

Its been a very good while since I been here on this site as winter took over. One day I was was getting ready to dump some trash when my starter just suddenly died. I removed it and had it tested and it failed. So fast forward 6 months later, many low paying checks later, I got a new starter from auto zone. Installed the new starter and I been having problems since. I searched this forum and found a lot of good advice but I just want to make sure I am doing this right because I am not sure anymore as I am making this more complicated than it should be.

1st
I want to make sure the starter in installed right as in the 1st picture is my current set up. In the picture "Solenoid setup" has the details. On Prong 1 I have the positive, large, think, black cable on this. Prong 2 I did had a eye terminal cable which is blue with a white stripe. Nothing is on this prong now but moved this cable to the screw thats on the bell-housing with a clip that is circled in the background. This screw sits just above the installed starter. Not sure if this is right or I should go back to putting it on prong 2. NOTE: I put it on prong 1 with the big, positive cable, the starter spins (a whirring sound from the starter) soon as you connect the battery. It doesn't spin when I crank the car but once you stop, it spins. This don't happen when the eye terminal cable is attached to prong 2, attached to nothing at all, or attached the circled screw in the picture.

The terminal eye ring might been added from the last owner as I seen a lot of these fixes similar to this in the car. You will see it in the picture "eye and ground cables". Its blue with a white stripe. (NOTE: I circled in the background on this picture is the negative cable from the battery. I just read here that this can cause the battery cable to spark and cause this issue. I will insulate that ASAP)

Of course the clip is the black cable with yellow stripe that goes above both prong on the solenoid.

2nd The starters wiring.
I have read it could be how the starter is wired on the forum also so I did got interrogated at auto zone to get another one. Mainly because prong 2 is loose so they fuss at me about this so I am lucky to get a new starter. But still puzzled. I had read about the wiring of this starter as its similar to the picture on subject "Starter Trouble" since my starter did made the same noises and issues described there but after making those wire changes, it didn't do that and the engine did turned for once than the clicking as I figured it have to be my battery cables.

3rd Battery Cables
Now I think the clicking isn't the starter itself till I was playing with the cables. I checked and looked as from the forum but so far in the pictures and video, I think they are worn out and old. As I am the 2nd owner of this rotary, I have no idea how long these cables been in this car but I those are original since I brought the car in 2008 and just happened to fail as I was waiting for money for a new starter. In the video you will see a wire on the positive cable, ignore it, found out today it goes to nothing and just there. Not sure why its there or a lot of things going on in the car so I need help when I can get it guys. Overall I noticed sparks fly after I removed some electrical tape off the positive cable and the negative cable starts to smoke and melt the coat while attempting to get the car to run. You will see the damage on picture "negative bat cable damage" Both cable are warm while I do this so maybe that can be clue to either worn out cables or there is a short coming from the starter.

Plus if you see in the video on how hard it is to crank this car, I can tell ya more in detail soon enough, but it does run and drove only 1,000 miles since I brought the car.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

run new cables from the battery to starter including a new ground cable. stay off them junk battery terminals which is easy to install but it does not provide a proper connection. I recommend spending some $$$ to buy a cable crimper. Speaking of a ground cable, add a second ground from the engine block to chassis. also, it wont hurt if you upgrade the fuse box to FC from fusible link and replace the stock alternator wire with at an 8 gauge at a minimum.

PS: Too much reading so my recommendations are based on the pictures.

clykins

iTrader: (1)

^+1 If the cable is getting warm its because the wire is not thick enough or enough of the inner wires are busted so all of the amps must go through what's left. They need to be replaced. Don't get those crappy cables again. Get OEM cables. They are not that expensive. When you disconnect the cable from the car, clean off the ground so that it can get a good connection.
Someone was tapping into the positive cable for some accessory.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I agree with Sirankio completly about those battery terminals being junk.

I bought some nice cables from Tractor Supply with the built in ends. Buy the biggest size diameter they have. I believe I got 01 for the ground and 02 for the positive. For the ground you'll need one long cable that goes to starter and another shorter one that goes to the drivers side struct tower. For the ground on the struct tower, I got a larger bolt for the negative battery terminal to connect it to the battery.

I also converted my fuseable links to a second gen fuse block. You woundn't have to do this but changing out the cables like this makes it must easier if you ever wanted to convert to a second gen fuse block in the future.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...-gage-top-post

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...e-terminal-lug

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/stor...tch-to-starter

Dave.Martin2008

go get a bottle torch and some cable ends that you crimp and some solder, tin the wire ends and then fill the cable end up with solder, heat until its liquid and push the cable into the cable end, then let it cool and that you have a complete connection. this is how we do it at the shop and its worked great for many years.

deadphoenix52

iTrader: (2)

its without a doubt those red and black colored terminals. didnt even have to watch the video

even the screw on unpainted pure lead ones work fine.

ive heard several stories of those specific terminals causing failures.

Siraniko

iTrader: (13)

good idea. thanks

blujRX7

Well from reading what's been posted here and they are all great ideas and advise, I have got it pin pointed that the cables are the problem. Although the terminals are not the best but they do have the quick release arms which cost a good amount at the time. The original cables are old and the negative was frayed and the ground on the tower has some corrosion on it and pretty sure it got in both cables.. I took some time on getting the some cables with a new ground cable from the block to chassis provided by the links by KansasCityREPU and she fires right on up, smoking like a train as it been awhile since she ran.. All 5 of you are a great help and will be taking advice from all of you as I had to do each one including soldering a bit on other spots. But one other question. Upon installing the new cables, have anyone noticed that the original cables are held in a brass colored bracket almost under the car? They seem to held both wires apart and with the holes on it, it seems its mount somewhere. Does anyone know where that should be at? I can make a picture if anyone have no idea what I'm talking about.