Bare minumum amount of wiring/stuff needed to keep my stock GSL-SE running on ECU
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Bare minumum amount of wiring/stuff needed to keep my stock GSL-SE running on ECU
I'm looking to clean up the rats nest and emissions stuff under the hood of my GSL-SE -- Its a stock 6 port 13b and i'm planning some mods in the future to the factory motor but for now i want to remove absolutely everything that is not needed to keep the car running on the stock ECU. Wiring, emissions, vacuum lines, etc. What can all be done.
Also, can i gut and cap off the stock intake manifold? what happenes if i remove all the actuators and misc crap attached to it? Also the throttle body
Also, can i gut and cap off the stock intake manifold? what happenes if i remove all the actuators and misc crap attached to it? Also the throttle body
#2
the name is Stan
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Is this going to be street driven or a race car?
I just did exactly the opposite of what you are trying to do.
I removed the stock injection system and pruned everything related to it except for what I'll need to run the ignition for a Weber conversion.
Looking at the pruned box of wires, relays, etc. I will have to tell you that from what I can tell, the stock EGI system is one big giant emissions control device. If you get rid of any part of it, the computer is going to know, and not be happy about it.
I found the Haynes diagrams severely lacking. I was able to buy a cheap disk on Ebay with better wiring diagrams that I could print out. Memorize those wire color codes. There are also some good online shop manuals with good diagrams.
Removing the ACV, air-pump and related items won't effect the injection system. You will need a block off plate for the ACV.
Removing the port actuators opens up a big long debate. You will lose some bottom end torque. I'd say keep them if you can.
For the cleanest look, go with a carb.
Or for a simple ECU that isn't so cluttered, go for a Megasquirt.
I just did exactly the opposite of what you are trying to do.
I removed the stock injection system and pruned everything related to it except for what I'll need to run the ignition for a Weber conversion.
Looking at the pruned box of wires, relays, etc. I will have to tell you that from what I can tell, the stock EGI system is one big giant emissions control device. If you get rid of any part of it, the computer is going to know, and not be happy about it.
I found the Haynes diagrams severely lacking. I was able to buy a cheap disk on Ebay with better wiring diagrams that I could print out. Memorize those wire color codes. There are also some good online shop manuals with good diagrams.
Removing the ACV, air-pump and related items won't effect the injection system. You will need a block off plate for the ACV.
Removing the port actuators opens up a big long debate. You will lose some bottom end torque. I'd say keep them if you can.
For the cleanest look, go with a carb.
Or for a simple ECU that isn't so cluttered, go for a Megasquirt.
#3
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I looked into this as well. You cannot remove much other than the ACV and air pump. Youll need either a dual sheave pulley or a yoohoo belt. Keep your CAT to allow operation of your 6 port. There are a couple solenoids on the firewall you will no longer need also.
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the GSL-SE ECU doesn't do much, so there aren't a ton of wires to start with.
the ACV has 2 solenoids on the firewall, so that is two wires.
the idle control has two solenoids, so that's two more wires.
there is a fuel pressure regulator solenoid, one more wire.
so you can trim like 5 wires, for a weight savings of like 3 oz's, not worth the effort!
the ACV has 2 solenoids on the firewall, so that is two wires.
the idle control has two solenoids, so that's two more wires.
there is a fuel pressure regulator solenoid, one more wire.
so you can trim like 5 wires, for a weight savings of like 3 oz's, not worth the effort!
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i'll be posting more now that the build is back up and running. been lacking lately working on other projects. look forward to a full build thread, from paint, to suspension, to motor, etc
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#8
Environmentally-Hostile
Well, if you are still looking for answers, honestly the best way to do it is to just ditch the EFI entirely, or switch to an ITB setup. If it's not a daily driver, losing the EFI system isn't a big deal, IMO. My Dellorto is just as streetable when it's warm, and looks **** compared to that ugly plenum and bunch of snaking wires, actuators, tubes, etc:
I kind of feel like you are searching for this type of look:
Mine isn't nearly that clean, but I was going primarily for function. I think it would be possible with an S5 upper, ITB, or Carb, but I think it'll be hard to have a tucked engine bay with the EGI setup.
Carb for the win.
I kind of feel like you are searching for this type of look:
Mine isn't nearly that clean, but I was going primarily for function. I think it would be possible with an S5 upper, ITB, or Carb, but I think it'll be hard to have a tucked engine bay with the EGI setup.
Carb for the win.
#10
'84 5-letter
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Although there is no argument that a carb requires fewer wires, it actually comes down to how much time you're willing to spend to make the setup look good.
Properly routed wires on an EFI setup would be equally as clean as properly set up carb.
Don't believe me? Then subscribe to my build thread in the next few months when I start working on the engine bay - I currently have 48dhla Dellorto and will be switching to EFI with a wire tuck.
-----
Note: I rack servers and build computers at work every day, so I do a lot of wire routing and tucking it's something I totally get off on
Properly routed wires on an EFI setup would be equally as clean as properly set up carb.
Don't believe me? Then subscribe to my build thread in the next few months when I start working on the engine bay - I currently have 48dhla Dellorto and will be switching to EFI with a wire tuck.
-----
Note: I rack servers and build computers at work every day, so I do a lot of wire routing and tucking it's something I totally get off on
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