1st Generation Specific (1979-1985) 1979-1985 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections

Ball joint and bushing

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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 01:49 PM
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Ball joint and bushing

I have a 79' that needs the front lower control arm bushing and ball joint replaced on both sides. I called Mazdatrix and they said to change the ball joint I'd have to buy the complete arm. I called Mazda to get the part numbers for both sides and the right one is 8871-49-310 and the left is 8871-49-320. When I looked on eBay, it said that the part number FA54-49-320 (left one) fits my 79'. Anyone know the correct part number? Or would they both work?
Thanks!
Allen
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 05:18 PM
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Not sure on the part numbers for the arms but the ball joints are, in fact, replaceable. Had mine pressed out/in at a local NAPA a couple years ago and have had no issues. Used Moog joints. Some people suggest putting a tack weld on them to ensure they don't come lose. Mine don't, no issues.

If you want to replace them you might look into adjustable ones if you think you might need the adjustability. Adjustable ones would be comparable in price to new OEM ones.
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Old Apr 23, 2016 | 06:08 PM
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Cool thanks for the advice!
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 09:28 AM
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Yeah the RB adjustables are not much more than new ones. Also T3 makes a set as well. These
will also get you some more negative camber if you want it.
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Old Apr 25, 2016 | 07:30 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Mazda sells both, the 8871 is the early part number, and they are slightly cheaper.

beware of the aftermarket arms, they are substandard
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 09:09 PM
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Okay thanks for the heads up!
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Old Apr 26, 2016 | 11:00 PM
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A poster here had pics of the damage done when his pressed in joints gave out. I'd buy the complete arm for the nominal increase in cost, as pressing out the old one fatigues the metal to install the new one. Not something I want to deal with on the side of the road.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 12:37 AM
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So as j9fd3s mentioned above, stick with factory arms?


Originally Posted by LongDuck
A poster here had pics of the damage done when his pressed in joints gave out. I'd buy the complete arm for the nominal increase in cost, as pressing out the old one fatigues the metal to install the new one. Not something I want to deal with on the side of the road.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by LongDuck
A poster here had pics of the damage done when his pressed in joints gave out. I'd buy the complete arm for the nominal increase in cost, as pressing out the old one fatigues the metal to install the new one. Not something I want to deal with on the side of the road.
I bought new arms for this reason, i'd rather buy the arms and have the peace of mind that these aren't going to rip out at highway speeds or on a mountain road. I think when safety is concerned it's worth spending a little bit more money.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by hcaulfield57
I bought new arms for this reason, i'd rather buy the arms and have the peace of mind that these aren't going to rip out at highway speeds or on a mountain road. I think when safety is concerned it's worth spending a little bit more money.
I don't see this as a safety issue at all. If the ball joints weren't designed to be replaced then why do multiple reputable companies make replacement joints and why are machine shops willing to do them on multiple chassis types? One could argue greed but in today's sue happy society I don't see it. Besides, the very company which told the OP they are not replaceabe happens to only sell complete arms. The weight of the front end rests on the strut mount. The control arm and stabilizer bar only locates the bottom of the strut.

There are multiple factors when a failure occurs. I would be interested in seeing pictures and knowing the circumstances of this failure. As far as money is concerned, if you feel better buying new arms then, by all means, do so. No one will argue with that logic. My point is $300 for factory arms versus $60 for ball joints and $20 in machine shop fees is quite a difference.

Again, I have been running my pressed in ball joints for almost 3 years now without issues. I did so because of reading I had done on this and other websites indicating it is perfectly fine. If I have a problem with my joints down the line I will document the event for others benefit.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 10:10 AM
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People have had the replacement ball joints come out. This is why they suggest putting a spot weld or two on them after pressing in.

I guess one test would be to see if Mazda ever made a replacement. If they didn't, they did not intend for them to be replaced.

For me, I'll buy new or go the T3 route.
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Old Apr 27, 2016 | 10:38 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by Joe428
If the ball joints weren't designed to be replaced then....
Originally Posted by KansasCityREPU
I guess one test would be to see if Mazda ever made a replacement. If they didn't, they did not intend for them to be replaced.
.
Mazda never offered the ball joints separate from the arms.
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 05:50 PM
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So would the ones that start with fa54 fit a 79'?


Originally Posted by j9fd3s
Mazda sells both, the 8871 is the early part number, and they are slightly cheaper.

beware of the aftermarket arms, they are substandard
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Old Apr 28, 2016 | 10:29 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by drdode
So would the ones that start with fa54 fit a 79'?
yes, not sure what they changed, pretty sure if you ordered both from Mazda you'd get the same arm with different stickers.

aftermarket is junk though, a friend of mine bought one and it lasted 300miles.
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Old May 13, 2016 | 02:00 PM
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Just to make sure before I order them, can someone confirm that the lower control arms from a 79' are interchangeable with lets say an 83'?
Thanks!
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Old May 14, 2016 | 04:02 AM
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yep, PN for 79-85 12A (and prob 13B -SE) Control arm & Ball joint (combo part as discussed here) is the same...
8871-49-310 (R)
8871-49-320 (L)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
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Old May 14, 2016 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by 7aull
yep, PN for 79-85 12A (and prob 13B -SE) Control arm & Ball joint (combo part as discussed here) is the same...
8871-49-310 (R)
8871-49-320 (L)

Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska

Ok sounds good, thanks
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Old May 24, 2016 | 04:35 PM
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What dealer can you order the arms from? I tried, and was told they could only go back to '86.
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Old May 24, 2016 | 07:11 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by jmbarber
What dealer can you order the arms from? I tried, and was told they could only go back to '86.
the new parts catalog only goes back to 1986, but if they checked the part numbers in the computer, it works and you can order them.

we've told Mazda for years that if they want to sell more stuff they should put it in a catalog, but they don't see why that is a problem.
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Old May 25, 2016 | 01:16 AM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
the new parts catalog only goes back to 1986, but if they checked the part numbers in the computer, it works and you can order them.

we've told Mazda for years that if they want to sell more stuff they should put it in a catalog, but they don't see why that is a problem.
I found that the dealer is able to order the parts if you give them the part number.

Seems odd about the catalog though, maybe they are expecting everyone to buy FCs?
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Old May 25, 2016 | 09:46 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by hcaulfield57
Seems odd about the catalog though, maybe they are expecting everyone to buy FCs?
lol, they do stuff like that all the time.

the new catalog sucks donkey ***** though, its slow and cumbersome.
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