fellinn

Just got a presmog test done. I'll scan my printout when I find my scanner, but this is what it basically says. Both readings are twice the G-Poluter reading. WAY above the MAX.
I was suggested a carb rebuild or a new carb and a tuneup. Can anyone give me some input on the situation. They also said take the car back and get your money back, but I love the 7.
I a newb to carbs, and I would like to rebuild it if thats the responses I get.
I'll do a search to find a carb rebuild thread if so.
Thanks for all your help guys!

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Somewhere we have a large thread on this subject but I'm too tired to look for it.

1). Don't listen to anyone that tells you that you need to rebuild the carb. It may or may not need service. However mechanics have a tendency to blame the carburetor for all running issues. :-)
Recommend to do all the following first(unless just serviced)
Change plugs, cap, rotor,oil, fuel filter, and air filter. Test ignition wires before replacing unless they look older than dirt.
Get a can of seafoam (napa or other good parts stores) Put the whole bottle in the fuel tank. Recommend to have 1/2 tank or less of fuel.
Drive vehicle on freeway for good distance to clean out system. Do not back up until almost empty.
I assume they checked ignition timing already?

After doing the above.
Take vehicle to good muffler shop that can test catalytic converter. Run the vehicle on the freeway for 15-20 minutes.
They will test the before and after temps of the catalytic converter to determine if it is still lighting off well.
There are tests that are in the FSM(factory service manual) to determine if the air pump system is operating properly also.
FSM link can be found by viewing member trochoid profile.
Do not attempt to adjust anything on the carburetor, you will just make matters worse.
After doing all of this and verifying that the cat is operating properly. Then you can schedule another pre-test. You will want to run the car hard on the freeway for about 20-30 minutes before the test. Do not shut off the engine. Try and get there right when your test is do. This way the engine is at full operating temp.

If the catalytic converter shows to be weak then it will need to be replaced. A bad converter is probably the biggest factor in failing the test.
But it does not matter how well it is functioning if the ignition system components are worn out and not firing correctly.

fellinn

15mph- (%CO2: 11.91)(%O2: 0.50) (HC ppm Max:152 Meas:720)(CO2 % Max: 1.05 Meas: 3.92) (NO ppm Max: 1191 Meas: 0058)
25mph- (%CO2: 11.93)(%O2: 0.51) (HC ppm Max:123 Meas:677)(CO2 % Max: 0.85 Meas: 3.98) (NO ppm Max: 1021 Meas: 0085)

Sooo, I think first of all. My air pump is bad, but mainly I think that because the air pump belt was OFF when I got the car. Yep, those are pretty bad numbers

I'm gonna buy a rebuild kit anyways and get a few of my fatherly mechanic elders to take a look at it and help/do most of it to rebuild it. A float might be stuck as well. Thanks for the big list, I'm gonna get right on it tomorrow.

MaX PoWeR

iTrader: (2)

dont want to be an influence but i just went to find a hook for smog. rather pay 250 for the smog then pay whatever to get her fixed. i noe i spend a lot tryin to get my se to pass smog but ehh. Sorry al gore, but u didnt make president

MaX PoWeR

iTrader: (2)

if i were u i would do a full tune up like what rx7doctor said. some say have a fresh oil change befoer u go get her smoged.

granolavsrasins

Hey I live in Cali too. I have an SE and my exhaust is busted so It may be that some of your seals are old or there's a leak. Since it's carbeurated I heard that it didn't need to be smog tested in California. Either way there could be an issue with the o2 sensor, a number of reasons. An old rubber line in the rats nest which is the emissions stuff that's under my FI 13B. I'm not quite sure myself since I don't know what condish your car's in or what the engine bay even looks like. I recommend replacing anything that looks old and murky in the engine bay. Chances are though that it may be something minor. A good tuneup is always necessary since the rotary is a fine machine that needs the tlc, much like a woman it needs to be oiled up and taken care of well. For now don't drive it.

steve84GS TII

Your running massively rich.

The extremely low NoX and the high HC/CO is a good indicator of that.Assuming the ignition system is working right,when your mixture is correct the CO will usually drop down towards 0.00%, regardless of the condition of the catylist or other smog control devices.CO content is used to dial in the fuel/air mixture when fine tuning carbed engines,such as the idle mixture.

Your HC's are actually not that ridiculously high.Yes,they are well above normal,but a correctly running 12A can put out several thousand PPM's of HC when the cats go bad.The fact that your cat can get the HC down to 700PPM when the CO is so high, means that its probably working.Its a lot cheaper to do a full ignition inspection/ tuneup if needed,and then look at the air filter and carb settings.Specifically,check the float level in the carb.Once the igntion and carb have been looked at,have the cat checked for temp and/or take it back for another pre-test.......and be sure to run fresh 87 octane gas and run the hell out of it directly before the test.Rotaries can be made to run very clean but its imperitive to have them hot and have the ignition/smog systems working correctly.

fellinn

I just bought distrib cap, rotor. Oil filter, fuel filter. And I'm looking for a smog pump, but not sure if mine is a 3hub or a 4hub.
About the o2 sensor, it might be that that's bad, and yeah, the carb is... phew... tough to tackle. Gonna see about paying to have a professional rebuild.
Thanks for the input guys!

steve84GS TII

Carburetted rotaries dont have O2 sensors,only the GSL-SE and other EFI RX's have them.

Change your airfilter and check/replace your sparkplugs.Plugs are critical on rotaries and they do wear out fast compared to normal engines.Make sure the ignition timing is dead on.All this stuff is pretty easy and relatively cheap compared to a carb rebuild....which you might not need.Save that for last after you eliminate all the easy stuff.

Does your car not have an airpump on it now?......if not,then thats a HUGE,obvious reason why your numbers are so far off.The cats CANNOT work without the smog pump.

justint5387

iTrader: (1)

Buy the spark plugs and spark plug wires

fellinn

Yeah, they are new plugs and new wires, new air filter. I'm betting everything that its the smog pump. I just need to find out if its a 3hub or 4hub, and I dunno what that means anyways.

steve84GS TII

Again,does the car have a smog pump on it now?

If not,then get one from a wrecking yard.Pretty sure they are the same for all 81-85 cars.
The "hub" refference probably is in regards to the number of bolts holding the fanbelt pulley on.You will probably have to reuse your old pulley if you buy a new smog pump from an auto supply house....assuming you have a smog pump on the car now.

If it does have a smog pump already,then pull the rubber hose off that comes out the back of the pump and leads to the side of the intake manifold.Start the car and feel if any air is pumping out of that hose.If it is,then the pump is OK.Its rare for them to fail and its usually acommpanied by a lot of racket since they are dry running pumps.Be sure the inlet hose from the aircleaner into the smog pump is clear of debris and not kinked.

If the smog pump passes the test,then you might have a bad ACV which is the box that the smog pump pushes air into.The ACV (air control valve) is responsible for sending the air to the correct places depending on how the engine is running.They fail on occasion too,but are easy to change and can be taken from a junkyard car.The ACV's vary from year to year,but usually the changes are from 79-80......81-83......and 84-85.

This might help......
http://www.mazdatrix.com/b-egr.htm

fellinn

Yes, the air pump is on it right now. I'll do the pump test, if pass, how could I check the ACV? I mean at $340 for a replacement.. wow. Besides that, I'm going to buy a carb rebuild kit and rebuild it, I can either do it myself or take it to a local carb rebuilder. I'll post back with the results of the smog pump asap. Thank you very much everyone, especially steve.

steve84GS TII

After testing the pump,pull the ACV off and clean/inspect it well.
It takes three 10MM bolts to remove it. Be careful and you might be able to reuse the gasket.The ACV often fails due to carbon buildup and general age.A good scrub with some pipe cleaners and a pick can often get them working again.Same goes for the little quarter sized one-way valve that sits under the ACV.Youll also want to be sure all the ACV plumbing is there,both vacuum lines up to the rats nest,and the larger hoses leading to the cats and intake manifold.There are often rot and heat holes in many of these lines due to the close proximity of the exhaust manifold.

orion84gsl

iTrader: (5)

Why buy something like that brand new? Go to the wreckers and get one for cheap. Pull them off and see if they're clean before you buy.

fellinn

Yeah, gotta call around and see if there any beasts hiding in the car pits.

fellinn

LOL, Ok, I'm not to sure how this works, but the hose going from my smog pump to the air cleaner.. it is SUCKING air, not pushing it into the air cleaner. I think that means something is wrong with it but I'm not too sure how its supposed to work.
There is another short hose that comes from the back of it to somewhere on the right side of the motor, near the exhaust manifold, its about 3 - 4 inches long. Is that the one that is supposed to suck? I haven't checked it yet.

steve84GS TII

Thats normal.
The hose going from the aircleaner into the smog pump is the pump inlet(suction).The pump draws filtered air from the aircleaner housing,then pumps it into the ACV.You need to pull the other hose from the back of the smog pump and check it for pressure. That other hose leads into the ACV which is on the side of the engine,above the exhaust manifold.

yodler

hey max power could you pm me re: your hook? i am also in norcal. thanks

fellinn

ok so the smog pump works fine, i did an oil change, oil filter, distrib cap and rotor. next on list is fuel filter and carb rebuild. there is a pro in the next town over that will do a rebuild for cheap.