after i bypassed the fuel pump relay i got all set to fire up the car and it wouldnt start. when i was trying to start it it backfired pretty loud, which concerns me. after that i started to run some test and saw that the carb was getting gas, but furthure tests showed that the spark plugs werent getting any power. i tested and the coils are getting power and i put a brand new batterie in the car just before trying to start it up. it has brand new plugs, wires and coils that were installed a week before the fuel pump relay went out. after i tested everything i could i have come to the conclusion that i think its the ignitors. i have a GSLSE parts car and i have taken the ignitors, distributor cap and distributor button off of it cause they seemed to be in better condition and should work. i didnt check the compression but i plan to today. if anyone has any advice for me or if im doing something wrong please let me know. thanks.

 

Did you check both Coils for spare or all 4 plugs for spark.

There are two ignitors and one controls one coil and the other controls the other. I have never had to bad ignitors at the same time. Even thought the coil is getting +12 it does not mean the coil is good.

 

can you show a pic of an ignitor?

 

Pull one leading and one trailing plug. Have the plug wires connected to them and lay them on the engine bay contacting metal where you can see them from the drivers seat. Now turn the car over and and see if there is a spark being produced from both plugs. If there is not, odds are it is the ignitor. Now you have the option of pulling the whole distributor out of the SE which is just secured with a 10mm bolt but will require that the dist. is in the same position as the one being removed and then reset the timing. Or just remove the ignitors, but if your pulling the trailing that may require moving the alternator.

 

No need to pull the plugs. Just pull the line from the Coil to the Dizzy. Use the Dizzy end and get it close to the stud at the shock tower and have someone spin it over.

 

Or use a timing light.

 

Ignore my spark plug wires, I'm running a direct fire system. But the above image should help you locate the ignitor boxes.

Hope this helps.

 

well i figured out it was the trailing ignitor abd i put the one off of the GSLSE on it and it worked. then i turned the car over and it sounded like it wanted to start up but as soon as i put fuel to the engine the engine would flood, this hapened multiple times. after one time of getting the car unflooded i went and bought new spark plugs and it just flooded again. i tried to run a compression test but either i did it wrong, the gauge was messed up, or my engine has way more trouble than i ever expected. the gauge barely moved to 25. i dont see how i could have blown an apex seal or anything, but you never know. well i put ATF in and i am going to let it set for 24 hours and then see what happens.

 

ATF? Yuck!

Have you tried cranking the engine with no plugs in? You know, to blow the fuel out of the spark plug holes? Make sure to disable the fuel pump or you'll be a fog machine with explosive potential. Also temporarily remove the wires on the ignitors. Or the negative terminals of the coils (either way will prevent the coils from sparking)

Here's what I'd do if I were you:

1) remove plugs and crank engine
2) clean and dry plugs
3) reinstall plugs and all other electrical
4) tow or push the car to start it

 

well...that was helpful for me thanks i need stuff like that. my car was doing the exact samething!!! Would u get the same effect from manually turning the car over backwards. And also i heard that u should let it sit after u crank it over with no sparks to unflood.

 

eevrytime it flooded i would disengage the fuel pump and ignition and take out the spark plugs and turn it on to get rid of the fuel inside the engine. i would do it for 5-15 seconds. i have heard so many times that ATF could bring an engine back to life an di couldnt think of anything else it could be so i figured why not give it a shot. later today i will remove all the ATF i can by using the same proess as when the engine flooded, then i will reinstall new spark plugs. and hook the ignition and fuel pump and all back on. i know its getting spark and i know its getting gas, but im not too sure about the compression. when i have the sprk plugs out and turn it on i have put my hands infront of the holes and i feel pressure, but im not sure how hard it should actually be. i will see about maybe trying to run another compression test or something. but after i get it all back together and ready i will try being pulled off and if that doesnt work then i think im just going to give up and sale the car or part it out. thanks.

 

if it's flooding that bad you may have a stuck needle and seat in the carb too. you might wanna look in the windows on the carb and check the float level.

 

Never ever use ATF to unflood your engine. It causes more problems than it solves. Use oil instead. Every rotary owner should have a case of oil or at least one or two quarts sitting around.

 

well after i got most of the ATF out and hooked everything back up she started up just fine. it smoked for a while but other than that its running amazing. i can feel a power gain and it runs cooler now, im not sure why, but it does. i thought using oil would be better too since the engine burns oil anyways, but everyone said to use ATF that it would remove the carbon. it seemed to do the trick for me. thanks to eevryone for trying to help me out

 

If you go to Rotary Performance/RX7.come they have a thread that gives you directions on how to unflood the carb and it uses ATF. I have used this method alot before i changed my carb and it always worked.

 

I've got igniters for sale, 30 bucks shipped to your door for 2!

 

Hey RotaryRevn;
I'll take a set if you still have them.
I'm doing the Ignition change over this spring and will need a set.
Send me the payment info at

sgieldon@earthlink.net
Thanks
steve

 

RotaryRevn still waiting on info in response to Igniter's for sale!
sgieldon
steve