bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Good times...........I remember the first time I got the SA engine running. I mixed a quart of oil to two gallons of gas the first time. Smoked like a bitch, but I felt better knowing that it got all lubed up inside . Man, I can't wait to see that car up and running again. Damn fine job sir.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Well, I'm certainly out of my element. I let the car run and warm up for the first time today, but the idle is around 2200. I have no idea why it would be THAT high, but it introduced another problem. As I tugged on the throttle cable to vary the revs, it dies just as it comes off the TPS. It's almost as if the AFM isn't playing along.

I forgot to put a good hose clamp on the wax pellet to rear iron hose, so that blew off pretty quick. Other than that, it looks to cool like it should. The temp gets just over halfway, the thermostat opens, and it settles just below half way on the gauge.

The car came with a spare fuel level sender, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that the current one isn't working. Not a big deal, though.

I'm using a borrowed handmade exhaust, and holy crap is that thing loud. I see that RB wants $980 for an SE exhaust, and I'm curious if there are any reasonable alternatives. If the 12A exhaust will bolt up to a 13B exhaust manifold, I have a line on a spare locally, but I'd hate to be breathing through 3 cats that I'm just gonna collapse.

Can anyone tell me if the very high idle and the dying as it comes off the TPS would be somehow related?

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like its out of adjustment maybe? I don't know if the Mazda tps is adjustable like most domestics, but that's what it sounds like to me. Did Eric give you the header that he had? If so, a 12A catback exhaust will work with the cats punched out.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

HERE is a video showing my idle problem and the off-idle falling-flat-on-its-face problem.

HERE is the car running with my first ever tank of premix

And a few pics of that seized engine that I finally broke down and, well, broke down.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

the first video makes the engine run as if there's a maf problem... it will idle well at high rpm when cold, but when the idle drops when the engine reaches normal operating temp, the engine dies???

ray green

iTrader: (14)

Nice Crit, all kinds of progress! If a nikki works on a 13B, I've got a spare in case you give up on that EFI. Can that engine be rebuilt? I thought you were being pretty optimistic about unseizing it.

bad 83

iTrader: (3)

Wow, that engine look knarley. You sure you want to save it? Anywho, the high idle and blip right as you gas it, also sounds like a intake leak, or a vacuum leak.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Crit,

Few things:
- make sure that you plugged in the AFM
- check for vac leaks, check timing
- take off the BAC and make sure that it is clean and such. I've had mine stick open creating a high idle
- adjust TPS. Warm up car then adjust. There are several good threads on the adjustment.
- you can check ECU codes. Simple to do. I have a write-up in the archive on jow to do it. It will tell you if the AFM is bad for instance.

Kent

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Ray, as far as the seized engine goes, it's actually in fabulous shape. The rotors are absolutely coated in carbon and/or rust, but remember that the engine was pickled in oil for at least two weeks. All that sludge just scraped out of the irons and housings with a razor blade and are absolutely perfect. I'm told that the biggest task will be getting the side seals free, which makes sense. I'll hot tank them and see if I can't bring it all back around.

Kent, if you look at the first video, it amazed me that the engine absolutely dies when it comes off the TPS. We found a small vacuum leak yesterday but I ran out of starter. I also have a second TPS that has been loaned to me for diagnostic testing, so I'll swap that in, put on a lifetime-warranteed starter from Autozone, throw in the Optima from the RX-2, and hit it all again today.

I'll go ahead and check the BAC, and we checked the timing yesterday (found out it was bad) I'd be thrilled to learn that the AFM just isn't plugged in, so I'll check that first.

Edit: Can't be the AFM, as I was sticking a screwdriver in the door to prime the pump and recirculate the premix that I addes yesterday. Dammit, it won't be THAT easy.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

made any progress recently?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Out of town. I have a new starter and got back last night. I've got a new battery in her, will replace the starter tonight, and get to cranking again. I'll swap in the other AFM if she continues to die as she comes off the TPS.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

If you're good you can rehab those rotors. It takes time and patience. Test your mettle working with metal.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I saw the pineapple video that's hosted, regarding the rotors. Apparently a shop grinder with a wire wheel will get you 60% there, at which you dig the carbon out of the sides with a side seal. If only I had a junk side seal sitting around....

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

get that starter in tonight?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

Nope. Atlanta had tornado warnings and wicked rain last night and the car's still outside, as I'm forbidden from running premix in the garage (smart wife - she finally clued in to WHY the car smelled like a weed-whacker, so I had to fess up). The starter's sitting under the car ready to go in, so I hope I can take care of it tonight.

Jeff, any pointers on cleaning up some nasty rotors.

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

you planning on using those rotors?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I'm totally stumped again. I swapped on a buddy's AFM and Billy came by, only to point out that I had a fuel leak. The intake came off, the o-ring was relaxed for a little while (2 weeks old) lubed up and replaced, everything reconnected, and still no running.

I took everything off a second time, pulled the injectors out of the block, and we cranked with the injectors held in by hand - no spray. I hooked up a noid light to the plug of the rear injector, put the injector back on the rail to block the fuel, and got no light as the car cranked. Somehow, the car's stopped pulsing the injectors after making those videos last week.

The car will run on ether, the fuel pump is strong with no leaks, so I'd assume I have all the pressure I'd need on the rail. It even hisses when it's primed. If the car sits for a few minutes, it will fire momentarily using the fuel that will slowly leak down through the injectors. For the life of me, I can't see why the injectors won't pulse.

The fuses that have replaced the fusible links are all good, and the ENG fuse under the dash is good. Is there a safeguard somwehere that would keep the ECU from firing the injectors?

dbragg

iTrader: (7)

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ht=gslse+start

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ght=wont+start

check your trailing ignitor yet? how about your fuel pump relay?

so, you never answered my question there lad?

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

Did you even check to see if those 2 black wires near the solenoids are bolted down? Need those for ground. If the injectors are not firing, these are the possibilities:

- no trailing signal
- no power to injectors
- no power to ECU
- bad ground (those black wires by solenoids)
- yellow connector by washer bottle not plugged in
- bad injector connector (this would likely only cause 1 injector not to fire)
- bad ECU
- no fuel pressure (injectors click, but don't squirt)

Did you check for power at the injector connector?

Crit

iTrader: (6)

- Tach registers a trailing signal. Is there any way to check to see if it's getting to the ECU? Is it a pulse or a voltage that increases with revs?
- Clearly no power to injectors, but that's what I'm trying to track down
- I'll have to check ECU power. Fuses are good, but I'll check the pins
- Grounds are good. The redundant loops are grounded to the rear housing
- Yellow connector was checked today, and I asked Billy to check as well, for the sake of verifying each other's work.
- I'm not sure how to check the injector connector itself, except maybe to pull the manifolds and check for continuity between the ECU pins and injector pins
- Bad ECU - Damn, I hope not. Short of swapping with another ECU, no idea how to check it
- The fuel rail has plenty of fuel and hisses when priming. When I had a leak, it was pretty aggressive.

AWS, as far as the rotors go, the housings are pristine and the rotors are the only really grungy bit of the whole engine. If the housings were shot they'd be giveaways, but it looks like I have a good motor.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

The procedure for testing the ECU is in the FSM and is pretty straight forward to do.
Are you positive that the fusible links are good?

Also you are leaving out the main relay as being the culprit. I have had one fail on me before. The procedure to test that is also in the FSM.

Main relay is on the fender well area just in front of the shock tower towards the firewall.

Rx-7Doctor

iTrader: (13)

Reference picture.

Crit

iTrader: (6)

I'll check the main relays, and I have no fusible links anymore. All 5 circuits go through an FC fusebox. I checked all the fuses underhood, and they check out. I'll check the ECU and main relay. From the FSM, the Red/White wire is energized by the main relay, so they're square one. Thanks, Doc.

Jeff20B

iTrader: (13)

Crit

iTrader: (6)

FWIW, I did go ahead and verify that I'm getting the trailing signal to the tach, which I am. I also checked the ECU, and I've got power on the Red/White wire when the key is turned to 'on'. I'll proceed with checking the ECU tomorrow (cold and late now), and will make up a TPS light setup tomorrow at work.

I've got to think that the car will be running soon, so I'll need to dial in all the idle settings before long. I found a female 3-conductor Mazda connector with male lugs in my spares, so it'll be a test light. The goo has been removed from my mixture rheostat, so I'm sure it's been monkeyed with by someone, sometime, so I'll have to go through verifying all the initial idle settings. Thanks for the help so far, guys.